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2012 Honda CR-Z GT Takeda momentum+fit ge8 intakemanifold,custom exhaust,eibach pro kit 25mm
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Brilliant write up. It's great to see people putting in the research to come with these solutions that us non-electrically minded owners can use. Such a great help for the community, so thank you very much.

Quick question. Is this procedure worth doing on a car that has had no issues? I've never had any warnings or any issues with my IMA system but would be nice to get whatever gains there are to be had. After all, it is still 10 years old.

Or is this one of those things that you should only do if you know your batteries are very tired and causing issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
You can do the procedure pretty much any time on our old Nimh packs.

But the weaker or more lackluster your pack is the greater improvement you will likely see.
 

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You can do the procedure pretty much any time on our old Nimh packs.

But the weaker or more lackluster your pack is the greater improvement you will likely see.
Great, thank you very much. I'll give it a go. Will I be able to see the before and after % with any decent OBD2 reader or do I need a specific type? I've got access to a pretty decent one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
It depends how decent a reader you actually have.
A cheap OBDII gadget will def not do what you need.

You really need to reset the useable capacity after the procedure.
That requires a $100 HDS clone or the £25 one week loan of one of my OBDIIC&C devices. (See the thread on them..)

I suggest do a lot of reading on my various threads on here. ;)
 

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2012 Honda CR-Z GT Takeda momentum+fit ge8 intakemanifold,custom exhaust,eibach pro kit 25mm
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38H trunk light. After that second charge and capasity reset. 2-weeks/250km and capasity is still 75% looks very good and car feel moore livly! (My starting capasity was 32%) This is one of must to doo thing
63976
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
All general questions on the forum please.

I've had a spare battery sitting on a shelf for 3-4 years. what should I do with it to keep it healthy?
If Nimh then Nothing, it's sleeping.
Just revive it (wake it up) just prior to fitting with the full cycling procedure in this thread. (Charge/Discharge/Charge)

If Lithium then it might already be really dead.
If they (LiPo) self discharge below a certain level (cell voltage ~3V) they die or can be dangerous :eek: to wake up.
(About 3V percell for LiPo is the absolute minimum)
If it isn't below the minimum then you can carefully charge it with the right equipment every year or so in storage to ensure the voltage remains around 3.7V.
 

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All general questions on the forum please.

If Nimh then Nothing, it's sleeping.
Just revive it (wake it up) just prior to fitting with the full cycling procedure in this thread. (Charge/Discharge/Charge)
I didn't want to derail this thread is all.

Good to know, it's a Nimh unit, so I'll just leave it how it is for now.
 

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Hi @PeterPerkins i have a quick one to ask before i have a go on grid charging on my ZF1 NiMH battery.

Bought 2 LED drivers from China, rated output of DC 24-68V 280mA. Looks similar to the ones you had.
I connected power to just 1 driver to test it out and got 138V and 280mA output.
Does it mean that 1 driver is enough to charge?

Is it normal for the driver to output higher than the rated voltage?
Tested both units individually and got the same result.

Greatly appreciate your help. Thanks!
IMG_0217.JPG IMG_0218.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Unloaded they usually have a high output. Did you get 138V and 280ma at the same time?

Anyway try one supply if you like but I would be surprised if one supply can output such a high voltage at 280ma...

If you use two they will be less stressed..
 

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Yeah tested 138V, swapped the multimeter over to check current and read 280mA.

Tried with both drivers, parallel input and series output, multimeter read 274.5V and 230mA.

Not really good with electrical. Seems abit far off the 130V+ that we're looking for. So i'm not so sure about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Yeah tested 138V, swapped the multimeter over to check current and read 280mA.
You are a bit confused and measuring the unloaded voltage and then the loaded current.

Just do what I advise in the thread and report back.
 

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I just finished reading this thread. Thanks for all the great information!

Just one thing that I am wondering… After using this method, is the rate of degredation the same as for a new battery? I understand it’s impossible to predict exactly, but do you have any experience with how “long lasting” this is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
After using this method, is the rate of degredation the same as for a new battery?
If you mean how quickly will the useable % capacity go back down again?
It depends on your usage/storage pattern and the actual cell health.

If your pack has a few dodgy cells or is just generally worn out then it will go back down quicker than if not.

The reconditioning process is repeatable, so when performance falls off or useable capacity % drops down again it can be repeated.
Of course the benefits will become progressively shorter lived as the pack reaches the end of it's useful life or a cell really dies.

The process is analogous to the 50 year old CRT TV tube rejuvenation days when they used to boost old TV tubes to make the picture brighter for a while.

 

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If you mean how quickly will the useable % capacity go back down again?
It depends on your usage/storage pattern and the actual cell health.

If your pack has a few dodgy cells or is just generally worn out then it will go back down quicker than if not.

The reconditioning process is repeatable, so when performance falls off or useable capacity % drops down again it can be repeated.
Of course the benefits will become progressively shorter lived as the pack reaches the end of it's useful life or a cell really dies.

The process is analogous to the 50 year old CRT TV tube rejuvenation days when they used to boost old TV tubes to make the picture brighter for a while.

Thanks and yes, that’s what I meant. You confirmed what I expected: degradation (after reconditioning) will occur quicker if the battery is old or is “dodgy”.

I am really tempted to do this. However, during my commute, I never see my battery below 5 bars on the dashboard. So I wonder if I would have any benefit with my driving style, which seems to not use much of the IMA battery’s capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Forget the SOC bars as an indicator.

You need to plug in and find out your batteries useable capacity %. 75% is the maximum it can be.

Anything lower than 40/50% it's probably worth doing the process and resetting the capacity back to 75%.
 

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What I mean is the following:

As an example, I drive up a hill and use X amount of electricity from the IMA battery. After the hill, the CR-Z will re-charge (about) X amount of electricty. If the current degrated useable capacity is two times X (2X) instead of three times X (3X), which it has when reconditioned for example, I won’t notice that my IMA battery has degrated.

So during this example, I wouldn’t notice a difference if the useable capacity would be 2X, 3X, or even 10X, right? The driver will only notice the difference when demanding more than the useable capacity, like 2.5X, since the degrated battery with 2X useable capacity won’t be able to deliver that amount of electricity. The reconditioned battery with 3X useable capacity would be able to do it however.

Please correct me if I am wrong! My knowledge about electricity and batteries is way less than yours. So I am trying to understand it by making up a simple example. This also could help others to better understand the importance of this reconditioning process maybe. :)

(This is the last question I will post here to prevent going off topic too much.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Doing this procedure will extend the time the battery is able to deliver a constant power and will also increase the maximum amount of instantaneous power it can deliver. .

If you go from 37.5 - 75% for instance the battery will last twice as long when climbing a hill.
 
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