[PeterPerkins]

The IMA fuse is rated at 125A, the meter fuse is 10A, the meter wires probably about 15A before melting.
You likely blew the multimeter fuse and maybe damaged it as well. The IMA won't have felt a thing.

 

[Jeffd]

You were up early Peter!
I too would like to donate to your research..... PayPal?
Could you also please comment as to whether my setup looks correctly wired? They are the 18W version It has a nice pulsing 122-128V output. I'll be exposing my ima sometime next month after a break in chemo
Thanks..

 

[PeterPerkins]

My brain works properly for about 3 hrs in the early morning!

If people want to donate that's great my paypal is my e-mail (onehundredandfifty)[email protected]
(Note the one hundred and fifty is numerals!) 150mpg etc

@Jeffd Picture?

 

[Jeffd]

Hi Pete, thanks. Ummm picture about 4/5 posts back, on the chair !!!

 

[PeterPerkins]

@Jeffd I can't see the colours of the wires under your insulation tape and the outer sleeving so can't really say yes or no.

 

[Jeffd]

That PayPal is coming up as IN USA in dollars Peter ??? Says it will convert?
Maybe I'm a bit fuzzy. I'll try again later
Edit.. black to red on short link Peter output seems good. I was trying to help the poster before !!...

 

[OldSkool]

The IMA fuse is rated at 125A, the meter fuse is 10A, the meter wires probably about 15A before melting..

Thanks Peter. That is comforting to know!!

After that short, the MIL lit up and a got a P0AE1 code. Clearing the ECU turns off the MIL. But the P0AE1 code appears to be permanent.

Nothing seems out of the ordinary though.
View attachment 66131

 

[PeterPerkins]

You probably only cleared the ECM OBDII code not the IMA module in the back.
If the car is working ok now and the IMA light is not on just ignore it.

 

[OldSkool]

You probably only cleared the ECM OBDII code not the IMA module in the back.

If the car is working ok now and the IMA light is not on just ignore it.

I’m not concerned 😁👍

 

[OldSkool]

I ended up doing one cycle:
Initial 30hr charge, 5hr rest, 48hrs discharge, final 36hr charge.

VOLTAGE READINGS:
Pre-charge volt: 110v
Initial charge: no data
After discharge: 0.6v
Immediately after final charge: 121v,
then after 8hr rest: 117v.

plugged in the BT OBD reader (numbers don't seem to add up) :shrugs:
Usable Charge 75%.
SOC: 52%
IMA gauge: 4 bars

Haven't really driving it hard yet, but a quick light drive around the block seems about the same. Will update once I get a good drive in and let everything recalibrate and settle.

I had to do this outside without a garage, so
to remain "incognito" and somewhat secure. I just ran the power extension cord into the trunk via one of the rubber firewall plugs. That way I was able to use the cargo cover and stock trunk mat, and lock the vehicle for some "stealth" charging and discharging.

Dependent on your environment and how safe an extension cord would be out "in the open". This method can be adapted by apartment/shared complex dwellers and street-parking only options.

Picture of all the components and ghetto hot-glued potato salad fan set up.

(40w 120v incandescent bulb)

 

[PeterPerkins]

@OldSkool Pics don't work...

Have you reset useable capacity to 75%

Did you reset SOC to 75%

 

[OldSkool]

@OldSkool Pics don't work...

Have you reset useable capacity to 75%

Did you reset SOC to 75%

Hey, thanks for letting me know, fixed.

Unfortunately, the bluetooth dongle isnt capable of those functions. The P0AE1 did reappear again after scanning for DTCs, probably because it's a permanent code. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary so I just cleared it. That's the only time did so

 

[PeterPerkins]

@OldSkool

To get the best from the cycling process you should have reset the useable capacity to 75% and the SOC to 75% when you finished using an HDS or OBDIIC&C/equivalent.

The car may sort itself out in the next week or so but it's best to do the above if you have the equipment.

 

[OldSkool]

@OldSkool

To get the best from the cycling process you should have reset the useable capacity to 75% and the SOC to 75% when you finished using an HDS or OBDIIC&C/equivalent.

The car may sort itself out in the next week or so but it's best to do the above if you have the equipment.

Oh I see. Still I'm glad I did this, just knowing the batteries are in a better state than before. and to be fair, the brisk drive I took wasn't long enough to tell anything. I'll be doing this again for sure once I can get one of the devices you mentioned

 

[PeterPerkins]

Led Drivers.

There are quite a few variants for these and I have used super cheap and/or expensive ones successfully.

On e-bay or aliexpress just search for 'constant current led drivers' then you will get hundreds of options most with a list of about half a dozen drivers to choose from.
You must get constant current types 250-350ma approx (not voltage)
The maximum combined voltage output from the drivers needs to be around the 130-150V mark.
This might be two lower voltage ones in series (as in my videos) or one higher voltage one.

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2 x 12-18W or
2 x 18-25W types would work.

They also do a 25-36w 135V single version which should work on it's own if the spec is right.

 

[J1000]

Got some experience to share and a question. Recently I had to park my CRZ for over a month. I came back to it and it fired right up no problem. No errors or warning lights except TPMS which went away when I filled the tires. What I noticed however was that my usable capacity shown on my OBDIIC&C dropped to 37% over the next few days I drove the car. I had done charge cycling and it went up to 75% and stayed that way for months.

So I guess if you park your Z for long periods of time it is beneficial to do charge cycling again, which I plan to do. Also, @PeterPerkins do you think it would make any difference to discharge or charge the IMA battery before parking for long periods?

 

[PeterPerkins]

There is no point doing anything with a Nimh battery before you park it up for a long period.

The best plan with long lay ups is to do a charge/cycle etc just before you drive it back on the road.

 

[prospect]

couple questions about this which i hope havnt been asked before...
will a 240v bulb be ok or would a 110v work better?
can you damage the battery by over-discharging?
if this DOES give some extra life to the battery, will the car update its state-of-health (UC) by itsself or will this only happen by manual intervention by HDS or one of Peters gizmos?

very interesting stuff anyway, cheers Peter

 

[PeterPerkins]

You can use a 110V bulb it will be brighter and faster! 240V is slower and gentler.
You are unlikely to damage the battery using a gentle load like a light bulb.
The OEM cells are top quality and don't care how discharged they get during this process.

The car may update it's own useable capacity later over time as it does monitor it, but that can be hit and miss.
For instant results you are best setting with the HDS/Gizmo.

 

[J1000]

Or just pull your 12v negative terminal for a minute or two that will also reset the battery capacity.