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Would it be possible for the OBDIIC&C to automatically update the SOC setting based on the voltage? A custom voltage range could be set for the C&C to reference and then sends the SOC before "it runs out" so to speak so that you could drive with 100% assist as long as the battery lasted and then it could go into a charge state, etc. That is at least my goal, to be able to drive a decent distance with full assist power the whole time and plug-in charge. Yes it's not trivial but it's also not impossible.

Here is a 30kwh battery I built for my other vehicle. 60Wh compared to this :ROFLMAO:

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Discussion Starter · #183 · (Edited)
Would it be possible for the OBDIIC&C to automatically update the SOC setting based on the voltage? A custom voltage range could be set for the C&C to reference and then sends the SOC before "it runs out" so to speak so that you could drive with 100% assist as long as the battery lasted and then it could go into a charge state, etc. That is at least my goal, to be able to drive a decent distance with full assist power the whole time and plug-in charge. Yes it's not trivial but it's also not impossible.
Nice pics what car and project was that? Link? Details?

In answer to your question YES. (For FN1 Nimh (MCM) cars.) MAYBE (For FN2 Lithium (MCM) cars)
That's basically what I did with the supercaps in the old Nimh based CR-Z.
If you review that you might get some more info.

It's fairly trivial to add OBDIIC&C auto soc reset for the Nimh MCM CR-Z based on some sort of average pack voltage.
I've used that technique on several Nimh IMA cars to which I have fitted lithium/bigger packs. (y)
Then you simply keep setting the SOC high with the special OBDIIC&C commands while your BIG pack is not empty.
The car only recharges on the overrun/braking and is very eager to assist! Happy days!

FN2 Lithium CR-Z cars do not respond to SOC high/med/low requests from the HDS as their capacity is calculated on voltage/temp and maybe some current counting thrown in.
To fake SOC on one of these I would probably fake the BMS CAN cell voltage messages that are sent on the IMACAN BUS from the 4 BMS modules in the OEM pack to the MCM/BCM.
You could send 40 x perfectly balanced high cell voltages on the BUS and the car would probably show/maintain a very high SOC. (y)
A modified OBDIIC&C could do this if placed on the IMACAN bus.

So how you fake/tackle this fake SOC in a CR-Z or other IMA car depends on what the car was originally and what hardware you have Nimh MCM or Lithium MCM.
 

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Nice pics what car and project was that? Link? Details?

In answer to your question YES. (For FN1 Nimh (MCM) cars.) MAYBE (For FN2 Lithium (MCM) cars)
That's basically what I did with the supercaps in the old Nimh based CR-Z.
If you review that you might get some more info.

It's fairly trivial to add OBDIIC&C auto soc reset for the Nimh MCM CR-Z based on some sort of average pack voltage.
I've used that technique on several Nimh IMA cars to which I have fitted lithium/bigger packs. (y)
Then you simply keep setting the SOC high with the special OBDIIC&C commands while your BIG pack is not empty.
The car only recharges on the overrun/braking and is very eager to assist! Happy days!

FN2 Lithium CR-Z cars do not respond to SOC high/med/low requests from the HDS as their capacity is calculated on voltage/temp and maybe some current counting thrown in.
To fake SOC on one of these I would probably fake the BMS CAN cell voltage messages that are sent on the IMACAN BUS from the 4 BMS modules in the OEM pack to the MCM/BCM.
You could send 40 x perfectly balanced high cell voltages on the BUS and the car would probably show/maintain a very high SOC. (y)
A modified OBDIIC&C could do this if placed on the IMACAN bus.

So how you fake/tackle this fake SOC in a CR-Z or other IMA car depends on what the car was originally and what hardware you have Nimh MCM or Lithium MCM.
I have read through your supercaps/lithium thread but thought the software side was still being developed. If it works already then that's awesome! I have a ZF1 Nimh car l. Currently looking for a CRZ lithium pack to modify like yours. The Honda LTO cells also seem like the best option. Maybe I'll try to double the capacity of your original build.

That battery was from my DIY EV conversion of a Land Cruiser. I am documenting the build here: The Electric Land Cruiser EVJ80 - Nissan LEAF + Resolve-EV

I finally got it running a couple weeks ago!
 

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This is an interesting and perfectly logical question.

4) Fooling a high power public charge point into actually turning on and delivering controllable power at the right voltage/current to a non OEM setup would not be trivial. :eek:
Yes, there aren't wrong question on batteries... Better to ask before
This summer I repeatedly fooled the local charging station using a Type 2 to Schuko 220v (I am in Italy) in order to charge a Lithium moped, the Super Soco TS, so I have to say that it work well.
(There's the moto external Ac to DC transformer in the middle)

I think it's relatively doable mix the above post about a OBD reset after the charge - I imagine a "car off during charge" - with the type 2 to 220v Duosida adapter trick, then your dual led charger solution.
Better having the battery not covered during the process...
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Yes, there aren't wrong question on batteries... Better to ask before
This summer I repeatedly fooled the local charging station using a Type 2 to Schuko 220v (I am in Italy) in order to charge a Lithium moped, the Super Soco TS, so I have to say that it work well.
(There's the moto external Ac to DC transformer in the middle)

I think it's relatively doable mix the above post about a OBD reset after the charge - I imagine a "car off during charge" - with the type 2 to 220v Duosida adapter trick, then your dual led charger solution.
Better having the battery not covered during the process...
I think it would be incredibly antisocial to block an EV charging point with a CR-Z charging a standard IMA battery with dual LED type charging for hours at a miniscule rate.
Big charging points are designed to output big power for cars or PHEV's that run on a decent amount of power and have large battery capacities.
 

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Yes, there aren't wrong question on batteries... Better to ask before
This summer I repeatedly fooled the local charging station using a Type 2 to Schuko 220v (I am in Italy) in order to charge a Lithium moped, the Super Soco TS, so I have to say that it work well.
(There's the moto external Ac to DC transformer in the middle)

I think it's relatively doable mix the above post about a OBD reset after the charge - I imagine a "car off during charge" - with the type 2 to 220v Duosida adapter trick, then your dual led charger solution.
Better having the battery not covered during the process...
The stock battery in the CR-Z is just too small. On a Type 2 charger it would be fully charged in just a couple of seconds. In order to really make the CR-Z a plug-in hybrid it needs more battery capacity.
 

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I think it would be incredibly antisocial to block an EV charging point with a CR-Z charging a standard IMA battery with dual LED type charging for hours at a miniscule rate.
Big charging points are designed to output big power for cars or PHEV's that run on a decent amount of power and have large battery capacities.
Yes it's true, it was more a test on all these desert charging points I have around.

I had to do something similar when I charges an electric moto, often I had to rely on Type2 plug, to charge at 0,2kwh
 

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For the ones that did this process a while ago, how is your battery holding up?

Yes it matters.

Charging first re-balances the pack and prevents any low cell/s being grossly over/reverse discharged

1) Charge first (to balance pack)
2) Then discharge (to reactivate dormant cell material)
3) Then charge again (to fill it up and balance again).

Repeat steps 2 & 3 for extra cycles if desired.
So the discharging rejuvenates the cells? Only charging (step 1) will not cause a (substantial) increase in useable capacity, right?

Another question I have is, how do you know the cells are not discharged too much when using a bulb? Does the bulb just turn off before discharging too much?
I do know that overcharging is not possible by using a constant current output, as I learned from one of your videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Discharging helps reactivate dormant material.
Charging balances the pack so all cells are charged equally.

The light bulb is a low current drain, the cells don't care about being reversed at low currents.
The light bulb goes off simply because the pack is nearly/empty (low enough that the voltage is insufficient to cause the bulb filament to glow)
Even when the bulb goes out it is still working it's magic and drawing the pack down lower and lower.
 

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Stops glowing, no light :)
 

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Yup I’ve used a 60W 240V bulb as well. Took me about 51hrs to discharge.
42hrs to slowly drop from 99.7V to 95V then reading starts to drop more rapidly.

Entire process took me 5 days.
At least my battery is significantly better after just 1 charge-discharge-charge.
Last checked my IMA usable capacity was 25%.
After51 hrs
How many volts of your battery?
 
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