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I may just be over thinking this.. no safety related question is a dumb question right??

Okay, so regarding the rubber gloves; would medical (standard blue type) nitrile gloves be sufficient protection or they must be specifically made of rubber material?

On Amazon, the rubber ones are mostly $30+ and look like dishwashing gloves on steroids also seems like overkill.

Other gloves don't seem to provide full hand protection and look to be made of some fabric material but with the anterior portions (the fingers and palm areas) dipped in rubber/nitrile(?) material and un-dipped posterior portions (back of hand and fingers) open.



A merch link would greatly help!

Thank you.
 

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EDIT: I Did something wrong. Sellers stock photos showed LED driver case with the input/output reversed. But a closer look at the customer review photos showed it the other way.

Maybe it was covered here and I missed it, but just in case:

**The white corded plug end on the LED driver is OUTPUT to IMA.

**The red and blue end is INPUT from mains.

Hopefully no one else makes the same noob mistake I did going forward. :(



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So I hooked up one of those drivers to a multimeter to get a voltage reading.

Soon as I plugged in the mains end. POP! poof of smoke, and that was it.

Looks like the ones I got are no good.. unless I did something wrong.
 

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Did you accidentally have the meter set for current instead of voltage? That would short out the supply and let the smoke out if it didn't have good protection.
The load from a properly connected voltmeter is negligible and should not cause anything bad to happen.
No, it was on DC volt for sure. Nothing happened on the voltmeter end.

It looks like I forced full 120V AC through the 280mV DC end.
 

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Went ahead and just ordered some new constant current drivers from Amazon.

Othmro LED Driver 2pcs 12-18W Power Supply Transformer Adapter 85-265V DC Low Voltage Output for LED Light,Computer Project,Outdoor Light Othmro LED Driver 2pcs 12-18W Power Supply Transformer Adapter 85-265V DC Low Voltage Output for LED Light,Computer Project,Outdoor Light: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement


Readings on the multimeter are all over the place. Suspecting blue wire has something to do with it. Decided to post here for help before proceeding further.
included a picture of the small wiring diagram on the driver cover

Any ideas?

thanks!
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Looks like problem maybe solved. I noticed the negative symbol next to that top right solder point so desoldered the black and blue wires. Then resoldered the black to that negative point. Now getting a constant 74-75volts.



Could use some pointers on how to properly connect to read amps though. Much appreciated!!
 

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I clipped insulated alligator clips as per instructed to the IMA battery terminals, then to the multimeter probes to test for voltage, flipped the switch and wires instantly lit up burned up. Positive completely burned and broke up. Negative melted. Got a face full of toxic smoke and cars gonna smell like like that for days. :( Man, what am I doing wrong here?

The multimeter wires seem okay and still work, so I am presuming the alligator wires are too thin? They look as thick as the output wires on the LED drivers. So now I'm scared to hook anything up.
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Hey Peter thanks for replying so quickly. I haven't connected the LED drivers to the IMA yet. I wanted to get a voltage reading as well as ensure I was tapping the correct terminals. So the alligator clips/wires that burned up were connected to the multimeter instead of the LED drivers.

Heres a pic of the IMA terminals I tapped circled in BLUE. Negative on top, Positive on the bottom. Maybe I got them wrong?
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I haven't finalized soldering the AC input ends but is it correct as photoed? Also, does polarity matter at this end?

I was thinking of repurposing a couple of these extra HID connectors to use for this project. What do you think?
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I should really stop listening to friends that supposedly know more...

I'll wire brown to black. Don't want anymore potential factors for hiccups.

Did I damage the IMA... Sigh.

Thank you so much Peter. You have a way we can donate. Feel I owe you a little something at least.
 

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The IMA fuse is rated at 125A, the meter fuse is 10A, the meter wires probably about 15A before melting.. ;)
Thanks Peter. That is comforting to know!!

After that short, the MIL lit up and a got a P0AE1 code. Clearing the ECU turns off the MIL. But the P0AE1 code appears to be permanent.

Nothing seems out of the ordinary though.
View attachment 66131
 

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I ended up doing one cycle:
Initial 30hr charge, 5hr rest, 48hrs discharge, final 36hr charge.

VOLTAGE READINGS:
Pre-charge volt: 110v
Initial charge: no data
After discharge: 0.6v
Immediately after final charge: 121v,
then after 8hr rest: 117v.

plugged in the BT OBD reader (numbers don't seem to add up) :shrugs:
Usable Charge 75%.
SOC: 52%
IMA gauge: 4 bars

Haven't really driving it hard yet, but a quick light drive around the block seems about the same. Will update once I get a good drive in and let everything recalibrate and settle.

I had to do this outside without a garage, so
to remain "incognito" and somewhat secure. I just ran the power extension cord into the trunk via one of the rubber firewall plugs. That way I was able to use the cargo cover and stock trunk mat, and lock the vehicle for some "stealth" charging and discharging.

Dependent on your environment and how safe an extension cord would be out "in the open". This method can be adapted by apartment/shared complex dwellers and street-parking only options.

Picture of all the components and ghetto hot-glued potato salad fan set up.

(40w 120v incandescent bulb)
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@OldSkool Pics don't work...

Have you reset useable capacity to 75%

Did you reset SOC to 75%
Hey, thanks for letting me know, fixed.

Unfortunately, the bluetooth dongle isnt capable of those functions. The P0AE1 did reappear again after scanning for DTCs, probably because it's a permanent code. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary so I just cleared it. That's the only time did so
 

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@OldSkool

To get the best from the cycling process you should have reset the useable capacity to 75% and the SOC to 75% when you finished using an HDS or OBDIIC&C/equivalent.

The car may sort itself out in the next week or so but it's best to do the above if you have the equipment.
Oh I see. Still I'm glad I did this, just knowing the batteries are in a better state than before. and to be fair, the brisk drive I took wasn't long enough to tell anything. I'll be doing this again for sure once I can get one of the devices you mentioned
 
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