There are dozens of threads and posts asking about widths of wheels, offsets, and what fits on the CRZ. I myself am shopping around for wheels and want to make sure I get a nice and flush look, without risk of rubbing. Since I was doing the math anyways, I figured I'd make a nice reference chart that can help anyone looking for a certain stance or extra wide wheels and tires.
First, determine whether you have the stock 16x6" wheels or upgraded 17x6.5" wheels. The top two charts with yellow headings show measurements compared to the 16's, and the two lower with blue headings compared to the 17's. Next, find the width of the wheel at the top of each chart, then the offset along the side. Where these two meet will be a measurement in millimeters (and inches in parenthesis) for where the edge of the chosen wheel will end up compared to your stock wheels.
There are two charts for each stock wheel size, the one on top called "Outside Measurements" tells you how wide the wheel is toward the outside fender of the car, and the lower one "Inside Measurements" is the distance that the wheel is deeper into the wheelwell, toward the middle of the car. Using these, you can measure your own vehicle to determine what will fit, and how they might look.
Please keep in mind, I am not guaranteeing whether any of these sizes will or will not fit, as I'm sure some of them won't. It will depend on your setup, if your car is lowered, how wide of tires you want to run, etc. I have included widths ranging from 6" to 10", and common offsets from +20 to +50mm. If anyone wants measurements for any other sizes not shown I'd be glad to get them for you.
You should be aware of the following technical aspect:
Changing the tire width or rim width does not change the track width, but:
Changing the wheel offset (CR-Z: +45) means changing the track width.
Changing the front track width means changing the steering roll radius.
Changing the steering roll radius means changing the cornering behaviour of a car like this:
Greater (more positive) offset tends to result in more oversteering / less understeering and vice versa.
^ At those specs the inside of the wheel components (brakes, strut etc) will all be fine. You would have to worry about your fenders and liners on the outside.
with those specs and 235's the fronts may even need to be pulled and rolled to fit depending on how low you are. my wheels wont be on for a loooong time i dont think.
I'm at 18x8 +45 with 235x35 and it's fine, BUT it's right at the fender liner edge. I put 20mm spacers on the rear and it's rubbing quite a bit on the fender liner. I raised the back almost back to stock so I only hit on major bumps, but I'd guess that with +24 it would have the same issue.
Better to hang a piece of tape with a quarter attached to your fender and measure.
I'm at 18x8 +45 with 235x35 and it's fine, BUT it's right at the fender liner edge. I put 20mm spacers on the rear and it's rubbing quite a bit on the fender liner. I raised the back almost back to stock so I only hit on major bumps, but I'd guess that with +24 it would have the same issue.
Better to hang a piece of tape with a quarter attached to your fender and measure.
in this case, if those specs are on the edge of the fender your wheels would stick out 20mm further. You will need a narrower tire / fender work or both.
you can but you'll have issues without any camber, I'm running a similar set up and its been a pain in the ass to get it streetable. you'll also need to stretch a bit to get it perfect.
should... based on what? - wheel choice isnt a science. specs change depending on what youre going for. are you looking for flush or just a wider wheel?
