Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seing if anyone has put their hands on one of these. Before any comments made i have no afiliation with company. The cast stsinless head piece looks to be descent quality. Id like to see a gasket on it see if it makes use of the whole port. The piping seems ok. But the transition to the stock exhaust at the end is terrible. I wont be using it for anything more than the top cast stainless piece cutting off the piping and welding on a v band flange turning it into a turbo manifold.

Rm950= 131 usd. So not terrible. Thats before tax and shipping. Im thinking on ordering one but iffy on getting one from Malaysia and shipping.

Product Font Auto part Human leg Nickel
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seing how i cant even get the seller to respond this is dead thread. Going to draw my own and have it 3d printed in 321 stainless steer or 625 inconel. Offer it in v band or t25 flange. Ill see how much first one costs, try it out then see if community wants any.
With direct metal laser sintering metal 3d printing is the viable choice over casting. No point in even trying to fabricate in stainless steel weld elbows either.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@ryanthegreat1 not sure how much they will charge to fixture and do the machining for the v band. My manifold would just use a common weld in v band flange. Put a step in end of my manifold to center the flange and allow for welding. If done right and extra material in right places you can just pulse it and use the additional material as the filler. Perfect welds every time. Learned that from my buddy who welds for blue oragin.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think it would need machining to make it correct. Even things thatvinvestment cast have machined surfaces. You might be able to get away with a copper gasket or copper ring between the 2 if its left un machined. I know the metal 3d printing we do at work with our mark forged there is noticable layers as its done with filament. And when its sintered it shrinks. Would hate to draw up v band and when done its undersized. So draw it oversized and clean it up. But the opperation to machine it on mill would require a fixture and a cutter that is similar to a dovetail cutter that would cut the taper on the backside. An endmill to go around the perimiter and an endmill to circle mill the face flat.
Other way would be on a lathe but swinging around a manifold on a fixture is a bit nerve racking.

But as we also know when welding a premade v band there is chance of warping it and being in same boat.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,284 Posts
Use a printing technology that doesn't use sintering at the final stage to avoid the shrinkage?

I wasn't too worried about the V side of the flange. The clamps have no issues working with rough cast turbine housing most OEMs are using. Just the flat mating surface I would think needs to be flat and smooth. I was going really simple and knocking off the high spots on the mating face with a belt grinder.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i agree use direct metal laser sintering as no sintering afterwards and visable layers. 100% the way to go. The mark forged option would only be if they let me do it at work in 625 inconel. My stainless option is 17-4 ph stainless and im guessing it would probably rust.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top