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Those hard economic tires that Honda recommends makes the car drive like a tank. Its not worth 4 mpg for that rough a ride for me. There have so many posts now and I'm watching ABC news live while reading this so forgive me. But is your car the one with the bad hybrid battery pack and the software update? If so were you the owner with all the mods? Is there a way for you to roll back the software? Sorry but I'm trying to do too much at once.
 

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Just went back to the first posts and yeah I'm mixing up posters so just disregard that last post. I would try a scantool and see if your compy is throwing codes. It might actually be in limp mode. I know it should have the service engine soon light on but someone might have tampered with your dash lights. I know its a longshot but if your car does not seem to be driving as well as it should then limp mode could be involved. I got a scan tool at that tool store for about 200.00 that lets me clear codes. I needed it for the Sentra but the CRZ has been playing nice. Supposedly there is one that interfaces with cell phone for real-time data. I cant remember the name maybe someone else on here knows which one I mean. Im sorry you are having these issues. And again I'm sorry I got mixed up on which car this one was.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Those hard economic tires that Honda recommends makes the car drive like a tank. Its not worth 4 mpg for that rough a ride for me. There have so many posts now and I'm watching ABC news live while reading this so forgive me. But is your car the one with the bad hybrid battery pack and the software update? If so were you the owner with all the mods? Is there a way for you to roll back the software? Sorry but I'm trying to do too much at once.
Lol don't worry. Some time ago I had a guy tell me he was selling his CR-Z to buy a DeLorean. A few hours later I saw his "for sale" post and asked him why he was selling the car.

Anyways, I'm not sure if my car has the software update on it. I got it about 2 months ago. Aside from the wheels, it's stock.
I am planning to go to a dealer to have them check out the car. I'd like to know if the battery is good, if the software update is there, and if it can be reversed.

I read from a Civic hybrid owner that he had to replace a battery, even though the car didn't throw any codes or lights. Someone else mentioned that the update makes it nearly impossible for the IMA light to come on. He was having similar (but more severe) problems to me: battery meter dropping a ton out of nowhere, and the system not providing assist in some situations
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Just went back to the first posts and yeah I'm mixing up posters so just disregard that last post. I would try a scantily and see if your compy is throwing codes. It might actually be in limp mode. I know it should have the service engine soon light on but someone might have tampered with your dash lights. I know its a longshot but if your car does not seem to be driving as well as it should then limp mode could be involved. I got a scan tool at that tool store for about 200.00 that lets me clear codes. I needed it for the Sentra but the CRZ has been playing nice. Supposedly there is one that interfaces with cell phone for real-time data. I cant remember the name maybe someone else on here knows which one I mean. Im sorry you are having these issues. And again I'm sorry I got mixed up on which car this one was.
I got a $3 ELM327 clone from aliexpress. It works, barely. I don't see any codes. I'm not sure if they're not present, or if the scanner doesn't support them. I'd imagine I'd need extended PIDs for the hybrid power train.
 

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That is scary as hell. Besides hacking your own car the next thing would be hooking a computer up to the car to see what is going on with it. If you have an ob scan tool that will let you see the codes. The dealer might help you with the software version you have but I don't think they will roll you back. If I were in your situation (this is just me now) I would have my scantool in there then my next stop would be a honda tune shop. Perhaps there is someone in a similar situation who can steer you in the right direction on the forum. If you are worried about warranty then no tunershops though. Some parts stores will run codes for free but the dealer wants big bucks for codes here.

The only reason I said a tunershop is because they can dig in there and see what the dealer won't tell you. These cars with a million wires and sensors are tricky as hell and having someone who knows the car well of immense benefit. In the 90s I had a Renault Feugo, one parts car, 3 computers later and about 2000.00 in diagnostics I found out the maf sensor needed to be manually adjusted to fix the surging. You know who fixed it? A little old guy who used to be a mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks for the info, I'll look into it!

As I said though, fun is more important to me, so if it turns out that the dealer wants money for a diagnostic, or I do need a new battery, I'll just ignore the problem. I do plan to install a Sprintex soon, so even if the ima isn't providing power, the supercharger will more than make up for it.

If the battery is dead, I might tear it down and try to replace the cells. But that'd be far into the future, and if there's no aftermarket replacements and I do indeed need a battery.
 

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I may have missed it but I don't think you ever said how long your trips usually are. If they're mostly stop-and-go type, especially sub 15 minute trips, you'll likely never get much better than around 30 mpg no matter what you do. And your fat tires on steamroller wheels are definitely not helping, though I'm sure look sweet.🤘
 

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I did not ever experienced such high fuel consumption even from my 2004 HRV 1.6cc 4x4 or from my 2006 Civic 1.8cc. The 1.5 petrol engine of CRZ has much lower fuel consumption even without any IMA assist. I would suggest to look after engine related issues because your observed MPG is higher even from Accord 2.0cc.

Also a honda ECU diagnostic report would reveal other possible flaws that can affect fuel consumption such as : Air flow mass sensor, exhaust gases lamda sensor etc...

If the petrol engine itself, does not work properly, then the IMA algorithm that adjusts how the system works, will be affected severely.
 

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Replacement battery pack available here Used CRZ Parts | Honda | 2011-2016 | Redline Auto Parts

If my IMA battery ever fails the car is sold or scrapped next day. As for the OP with the "bad"update ask honda to reapply it maybe it did not install correctly or discnnect the under hood battery wait 15 mintes reconnect and drive for muliple start cycles and exercise the IMA see if any changes occur.

Thanks for the info, I'll look into it!

As I said though, fun is more important to me, so if it turns out that the dealer wants money for a diagnostic, or I do need a new battery, I'll just ignore the problem. I do plan to install a Sprintex soon, so even if the ima isn't providing power, the supercharger will more than make up for it.

If the battery is dead, I might tear it down and try to replace the cells. But that'd be far into the future, and if there's no aftermarket replacements and I do indeed need a battery.
 

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With my Trudy just hitting 131k and still running 40mpg average, I am counting my lucky stars. Hopefully, being a 2013, I am not an outlier. I am the original owner, so I know what is and was done to her.
 

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My 2013 (Scarlett) is also routinely getting 40+ mpg and I am the third owner. I bought the car at right around 46K miles. I drove about 150 roundtrip miles today and got 42.5 mpg going about 75 mph in Normal mode. I think it would have been better if the route was not so hilly. I agree with Spdbump. Either ask for a reprogram or disconnect your battery if you know what you are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
discnnect the under hood battery wait 15 mintes reconnect and drive for muliple start cycles and exercise the IMA see if any changes occur.
disconnect your battery if you know what you are doing.
I already did that on the first week of having the car (I was replacing the radio)
I'll do ir right now, tho.
Do you guys also recommend disconnecting the IMA battery? Would this cause any computer to require any reset/calibration/re-learn from someone with special tools?

I drove about 150 roundtrip miles today and got 42.5 mpg going about 75 mph in Normal mode
I did a 140 mile trip 2 days ago in normal mode. I was going about 79mph on pretty flat roads, with a small bit of city driving (probably 10% of the trip) and I got 30.0 MPG. I know 80mph isn't conducive to good MPG, but that's worse than my Civic, which usually got around 32 MPG with the same driving style.
 

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Your issue is purely mechanical related. Forget IMA system, forget batteries etc.. Go to a specialized Honda workshop with Factory computer and they will locate the reason of this abnormality. According to your feedback, an engine component is affecting heavily your fuel consumption. It could be a sensor of air intake or exhaust gases (so the mixture is not calculated properly) it could be your spark plugs etc etc.. Do you observe anything else unusual?

Your 80mph speed is not something exaggerating for a car with such low aerodynamic drag coefficient. Normally on a flat road with such speed you must observe instant fuel consumption of aprox. 5-5.5 lt/100km.

Even if you battery was on the low side and IMA system continuously charging your battery pack during voyage, this would affect your fuel consumption only for 0.3-0.5 lt/100km.

Your 18" rims and tyres, have the same overall diameter as the factory ones ?

I would not recommend to shut off IMA system nor to disconnect the under hood battery with such easiness because:

  • There is not any possibility to revert on the previous IMA firmware nor to delete any ECU installation.
  • The "trick" to disconnect the under hood battery can only erase temporary errors from your ECU memory. (but you do not have any otherwise the engine warning light would be blinking). Moreover, this "trick" does not cure anything and is not considered as a proper fault finding solution or permanent fix of any issue.
  • You jeopardize to face major engine components mis-adjustment, such as ABS module. If so, then re-programming is needed and won't be cheap.
 

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55-65mph is more in the CR-Z's sweet spot. Just a theory, based on nothing more than the fact that the civic has a bigger engine, is that the better fuel economy could come from the Civic possibly running at lower rpms than the CR-Z, especially if you weren't using econ mode. Also, Contrary to what the CoD numbers would lead you to believe, the tiny CR-Z is also highly susceptible to negative effects from head/sidewinds. You've changed to a new engine air filter, gave it new plugs, maybe there is something else wrong. Have you checked for dragging brakes? Or maybe it just doesn't like you.😉 The only thing I know for sure is that when I had my 2014 CVT, it would run at least 37mpg (usually 40+) with me doing nothing special except just driving. Only dipping slightly lower to 34-36mpg in the winter. Hope you get this figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Your issue is purely mechanical related. Forget IMA system, forget batteries etc.. Go to a specialized Honda workshop with Factory computer and they will locate the reason of this abnormality. According to your feedback, an engine component is affecting heavily your fuel consumption. It could be a sensor of air intake or exhaust gases (so the mixture is not calculated properly) it could be your spark plugs etc etc.. Do you observe anything else unusual?

Your 80mph speed is not something exaggerating for a car with such low aerodynamic drag coefficient. Normally on a flat road with such speed you must observe instant fuel consumption of aprox. 5-5.5 lt/100km.

Even if you battery was on the low side and IMA system continuously charging your battery pack during voyage, this would affect your fuel consumption only for 0.3-0.5 lt/100km.

Your 18" rims and tyres, have the same overall diameter as the factory ones ?

I would not recommend to shut off IMA system nor to disconnect the under hood battery with such easiness because:

  • There is not any possibility to revert on the previous IMA firmware nor to delete any ECU installation.
  • The "trick" to disconnect the under hood battery can only erase temporary errors from your ECU memory. (but you do not have any otherwise the engine warning light would be blinking). Moreover, this "trick" does not cure anything and is not considered as a proper fault finding solution or permanent fix of any issue.
  • You jeopardize to face major engine components mis-adjustment, such as ABS module. If so, then re-programming is needed and won't be cheap.
You're right, actually. You're absolutely right
On the highway, the IMA system is more or less just along for the ride; it doesnt do much other than the periodic assist when going up a hill or passing someone. If there were an issue with the IMA, I'd see lower mpg on city, but largely unaffected mpg on highway. Not my case.

My wheels are 225/45 R18, OEM is 195/55 R16. My tires are 638mm in diameter, vs 620 of OEM. only a 2.9% difference. I can think of arguments on both why it would and why it wouldn't make a difference. Beore my 140 mile trip, I did increase tire pressure from 29.5 to 35. I have a new air filter, I cleaned the MAF twice (once without removing it from the housing, the second time I did remove it). I also checked one spark plug. It seemed fine: no carbon build up, it was dry and in good condition. It was a double-irridium plug. I didn't check all 4 because I didn't feel like reaching around a warm engine, plus I don't have many extensions, and I have to use 2 different sockets to get the spark plugs out.

As for anything unusual, the only thing is that, after a cold start, if I go from Drive or Reverse to Neutral, the engine revs up to like 2200RPMs and goes down slowly, kinda like when you bump the throttle. Also, I did film a 0-60 run to time it, and it came out to be 10 seconds, even though its supposed to be closer to 8. Both of these are slightly unusual, but nothing concerning, I think.

I had very low hopes for disconnecting the 12v battery. I thought that maybe it was one of those cases where a computer starts acting strange and turning it off and back on fixes it. Of course, it did absolutely nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
55-65mph is more in the CR-Z's sweet spot. Just a theory, based on nothing more than the fact that the civic has a bigger engine, is that the better fuel economy could come from the Civic possibly running at lower rpms than the CR-Z, especially if you weren't using econ mode.
One of the main reasons I don't use Sport mode on the highway is the higher revs when cruising

My civic is a 2005, and it has a 4-speed slush-o-matic. at 80mph, the engine turns at about 3100 RPM, while the CR-Z goes between 2300 - 2800 if I recall correctly. Plus, the 7th gen Civic was released in 2001, and the 'Z in 2011, 10 years after.

If anything, the 4 speed should really hurt the Civic. Because of the long gearing, I have to floor it every time I need to increase my speed.

I haven't checked for dragging brakes yet.

I know that getting 37 mpg going 80mph is tough, but I'd expect at least 33-34.
 

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One of the main reasons I don't use Sport mode on the highway is the higher revs when cruising

My civic is a 2005, and it has a 4-speed slush-o-matic. at 80mph, the engine turns at about 3100 RPM, while the CR-Z goes between 2300 - 2800 if I recall correctly. Plus, the 7th gen Civic was released in 2001, and the 'Z in 2011, 10 years after.

If anything, the 4 speed should really hurt the Civic. Because of the long gearing, I have to floor it every time I need to increase my speed.

I haven't checked for dragging brakes yet.

I know that getting 37 mpg going 80mph is tough, but I'd expect at least 33-34.
I haven't played with it much but I can still get 37 mpg in sport mode. I did a trip north till I hit a bad accident and had to turn around. They were waiting on a helicopter and inspecting the accident site. After I switched back to normal drive the rpms dropped about 300. You can customize the modes. It might be in there you are losing mpg. Still think a trip to a tuner shop is what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I haven't played with it much but I can still get 37 mpg in sport mode. I did a trip north till I hit a bad accident and had to turn around. They were waiting on a helicopter and inspecting the accident site. After I switched back to normal drive the rpms dropped about 300. You can customize the modes. It might be in there you are losing mpg. Still think a trip to a tuner shop is what you need.
I've noticed that, while cruising on the highway, switching between Sport and Normal doesn't affect the instant mpg meter at all.
 

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I've noticed that, while cruising on the highway, switching between Sport and Normal doesn't affect the instant mpg meter at all.
What about miles to empty? My car had the computer reset when I changed the 12 volt battery so shorter distance driving has a bigger effect on distance to empty.
 
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