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'11 EX manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, figured I would ask for some advice on here about rebuilding the motor and how difficult/ time consuming it would be as well as any suggestions for a few performance upgrades. I'm definitely not looking to do an engine swap or anything like that, since she'll still be my daily driver, but I do want to give her some more pep and breath new life into the car since its sitting at over 200,000 miles. I have all the dealership shop manuals, just need to know what I'm getting into since my only experience is 90's Hondas and Fords.
 

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Basically, it's all the same as a 90's Honda to rebuild the engine, except for the IMA motor that's sandwiched between the trans and the engine block. First question is, what kind of performance upgrades are you going to do (and will they achieve the end result you're looking for.)

Is there anything about the engine, besides mileage, that causes you to consider a rebuild? ...burning oil, oil leaks, coolant seeping into the oil sump???
 

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'11 EX manual
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20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Basically, it's all the same as a 90's Honda to rebuild the engine, except for the IMA motor that's sandwiched between the trans and the engine block. First question is, what kind of performance upgrades are you going to do (and will they achieve the end result you're looking for.)

Is there anything about the engine, besides mileage, that causes you to consider a rebuild? ...burning oil, oil leaks, coolant seeping into the oil sump???
Not really any problems, I just want to have it rebuilt before I get the factory supercharger kit, mileage is also a concern but that's about it
 

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Not really any problems, I just want to have it rebuilt before I get the factory supercharger kit, mileage is also a concern but that's about it
Oh, okay....gotcha! I have the HPD supercharger on mine. What year is your CR-Z? You won't NEED any upgraded internals for the factory supercharger, but if you want to put some HKS forged pistons in there while you're at it, I've got some that are still in the box, lol.

Do you have the part numbers to give to the parts guy to place your order? It'll save some time, since they might not know it's actually still available--really. Also, get a limited slip dif, Honda makes one, but other companies do also.
06100-F27S-A00 HPD Supercharger
41100-F27S-A20 HPD Limited Slip Differential ~$1052.44
08799-0007 TRACTION FLUID (HPD) ~$186.40

Maintenance/replacement parts:
17845-FC4-A00 Belt, Supercharger ~$46.29
17220-RX0-A00 Element Assy,Air/ ~$13.55

Other:
18300-F27S-A05 HPD exhaust
71502-F27S-A02 HPD diffuser
 

· Registered
'11 EX manual
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20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, okay....gotcha! I have the HPD supercharger on mine. What year is your CR-Z? You won't NEED any upgraded internals for the factory supercharger, but if you want to put some HKS forged pistons in there while you're at it, I've got some that are still in the box, lol.

Do you have the part numbers to give to the parts guy to place your order? It'll save some time, since they might not know it's actually still available--really. Also, get a limited slip dif, Honda makes one, but other companies do also.
06100-F27S-A00 HPD Supercharger
41100-F27S-A20 HPD Limited Slip Differential ~$1052.44
08799-0007 TRACTION FLUID (HPD) ~$186.40

Maintenance/replacement parts:
17845-FC4-A00 Belt, Supercharger ~$46.29
17220-RX0-A00 Element Assy,Air/ ~$13.55

Other:
18300-F27S-A05 HPD exhaust
71502-F27S-A02 HPD diffuser
Thank's! I'll definitely give all that a look and see if they'll be easy to get ahold of in my area, its moreso just finding the time to get it all done and making sure I don't blow my money on anything else
 

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2014 CR-Z, Base, CVT
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871 Posts
Are you gonna do anything to the IMA battery, or are you just reusing your old one? I believe there are aftermarket Ni-MH cells for the CR-Z.

Also, you need a special tool to remove the IMA motor, which I imagine must come off for a rebuild. Without the tool you risk damaging the IMA rotor or field windings, and you can also lose a finger when reinstalling the rotor. Those magnets are no joke and don't have an off switch.
 

· IMA Enthusiast
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1,645 Posts
There are aftermarket cells for the CRZ, but before you invest I suggest try proper cheap cycling of the IMA Battery and a reset of the useable capacity.
This will likely restore some lost IMA performance and capacity due to ageing/memory effects.

Although having the expensive special Honda tool is desirable, it is not mandatory for the job.

If the IMA motor is still attached to the engine you can shim/pack the rotor and stator gap with cereal packet cardboard
or plastic of a similar thickness to take up all the slack/space. Mark the rotor position in the stator at the same time.

When you then release the rotor from the crank it will not damage itself against the stator and will remain reasonably central.
It can then be removed as a unit with the stator assembly/complete motor. (Keep them together and bag the whole assembly)

Do not remove the rotor from the stator unless absolutely necessary.
(Bag it immediately in freezer bag or something if you do)

The stator acts like a magnet keeper and contains the rotor magnetic force.

Unencumbered by the stator the unleashed rotor magnets will pick up swarth, 10mm sockets and magnetic detritus from a mile away!!
Watch your fingers as has been mentioned, but if you keep the rotor in the stator it is reasonably benign. (y)
 

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2010 sport 6 manual
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289 Posts
There are aftermarket cells for the CRZ, but before you invest I suggest try proper cheap cycling of the IMA Battery and a reset of the useable capacity.
How do you go about this Peter?
 

· IMA Enthusiast
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1,645 Posts
How do you go about this Peter?
Read this thread..
 

· Registered
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286 Posts
Hey everyone, figured I would ask for some advice on here about rebuilding the motor and how difficult/ time consuming it would be as well as any suggestions for a few performance upgrades. I'm definitely not looking to do an engine swap or anything like that, since she'll still be my daily driver, but I do want to give her some more pep and breath new life into the car since its sitting at over 200,000 miles. I have all the dealership shop manuals, just need to know what I'm getting into since my only experience is 90's Hondas and Fords.
Catcams have some options for cams if you swap to the for ge8 rocker arms.
There are some higher cr pistons available if you search by the L15a7 engine code rather than crz.
Rcz crew have options for intake manifolds that have the stock tb bolt pattern so you could upgrade to an r18 tb.
You could, if you find someone local and cost effectivs, add low friction coating to the pistons skirts and thrust faces of the rods and the cams rocker shaft to reduce mech losses a bit.
 

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29 Posts
I recall reading there was a write about about the dangers of working near the ima motor. The magnets were so powerful that it would pull wrenches out of the mechanics hands and go flying.

It was on the shop that did the full engine build and turbo in the uk... the one shop that went crazy on the build. Do you recall that build the Turbo uk crz or something...
It was so over the top the money that was spent it was sickening.

If you are rebuilding, wouldn’t the engine need to come out? t
Turbo kit makes a massive difference, I would assume the superchargers would be a great upgrade As the install would be a lot easier.
If I was to do it again, the supercharger route would make more sense.
 

· Registered
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286 Posts
I recall reading there was a write about about the dangers of working near the ima motor. The magnets were so powerful that it would pull wrenches out of the mechanics hands and go flying.

It was on the shop that did the full engine build and turbo in the uk... the one shop that went crazy on the build. Do you recall that build the Turbo uk crz or something...
It was so over the top the money that was spent it was sickening.

If you are rebuilding, wouldn’t the engine need to come out? t
Turbo kit makes a massive difference, I would assume the superchargers would be a great upgrade As the install would be a lot easier.
If I was to do it again, the supercharger route would make more sense.
There is a special non magnetic tool to remove the stator i believe. Its neodinium iirc.
 
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