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2016/2013 steering wheel swap

2016/2013 steering wheel swap--not plug and play. The owners of the 2016 who are considering an aftermarket steering wheel should note the slight differences between the 2016 and previous model years--using my 2013 as an example. There are two pins/nubs on the steering column of the 2013 for the turn signal cancelling switch, but only one on the 2016. The holes in the steering wheel frame are different, in that the 2016's wheel puller threaded holes are where the signal cancelling pins/nubs holes are on the 2013, and the signal cancelling hole of the 2016 is an oval hole, just left of the wheel puller threaded hole(s) of the 2013.

For the 2013 wheel to fit on the 2016 column, all that was necessary, was to open up that threaded hole enough for it to accept the pin/nub on the 2016 cable reel assembly. To fit the 2016 steering wheel to the 2013, I had to drill out the wheel puller threaded holes of the 2016's steering wheel assembly (and actually ovalling them out a bit towards the outer circumference to slip both pins/nubs freely into the steering wheel base.

Also noticed that the 2013 had an additional 1/8" key slot on the vertical (perpendicular to the pin/nub holes) that slips into the green plastic part in the center of the 2013's cable reel assembly, which is not present in the 2016's cable reel.

2016's wheel puller threaded holes shown after drilling them out to fit the 2013's turn signal cancelling pins/nubs. The outer, oval hole is the location of where the 2016's single pin/nub hole mates with the 2016's signal cancelling assembly (no pic of the 2016's assembly, but it doesn't have the plastic geen part of the 2013's assembly.) I thought I might have to fabricate something to the 2016's steering wheel base to make the connection to the green slotted piece on my 2013, but haven't noticed any problem yet, without doing any modifications to it--will have to make a point of investigating further, and checking the turn signal cancelling function with the 2016 wheel on the 2013 column, but there's no problem at all with the 2013 wheel on the 2016 column since that part has been redesigned out of the 2016's column.

@litz Thank you for the link to how you did this.

Did you ever end up having any turn signal issues with that green slotted piece and the '16 wheel not having that vertical notch? Or is the '16 fine without the notch?
 
Discussion starter · #622 ·
@litz Thank you for the link to how you did this.

Did you ever end up having any turn signal issues with that green slotted piece and the '16 wheel not having that vertical notch? Or is the '16 fine without the notch?
No problems with turn signal issues at all, in fact, I forgot all about the concerns I had until I reread that link I gave you. You'll be good by just drilling out those thread holes to a big enough and smooth enough finish to accept the nubs on your hub, and the notch is no obstacle either.

Note that the material you're drilling out is just soft aluminum, or something of the kind, so it's a quick and easy DIY, but you might want to wrap up the rim of the steering wheel so you don't accidentally get any of the metal shavings embedded into the leather.
 
Discussion starter · #623 ·
Finally got around to some Winter projects on the 6-Speed CR-Z today. Hybrid-Racing short shifter and a dead pedal.

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Discussion starter · #625 ·
That's a good looking dead pedal! Do you perhaps have a link to it?

Also love the HR shifter, can't wait for mine to arrive!
Yes, that shifter was worth the wait--you'll notice an improvement for sure.

Sorry, no link to the dead pedal since it's a one-off. I friend made it for his CR-Z years ago, and recently sold his car and asked if I was interested in buying it off of him. Of course I was--been drooling over it for years. :)
 
@litz what a sweet dead pedal!! I just got the 05 Civic one from strutking and hoping that when I drill the screws they won't go into the metal floor itself. Did yours? I don't want to make any additional holes.

Also, how you like the shifter compared to stock? I never seemed to get the notification about when they came out even though I signed up!!
 
Discussion starter · #628 ·
@litz what a sweet dead pedal!! I just got the 05 Civic one from strutking and hoping that when I drill the screws they won't go into the metal floor itself. Did yours? I don't want to make any additional holes.

Also, how you like the shifter compared to stock? I never seemed to get the notification about when they came out even though I signed up!!
I haven't seen the strutking dead pedal, so I'll have to look it up. Ron said he just used a dab of adhesive in a couple of spots to hold it in place, if I remember correctly, but I wanted a more secure (mechanical) fastening mechanism....

The OEM carpet--and rubber pad on top of that--has about 1-1/2 or so of white styrofoam molded to the back of it, so you'd be putting screws into the OEM rubber (I guess,) but there is a good bit of space before you'd hit metal. I had one stainless steel bolt leftover from a fender washer kit, so I used that to secure the upper part and added three strips of 3M tape to the underside too.

I figure the four screws that come with the civic dead pedal will hold pretty good, since the rubber that you're screwing into is at least 1/4 inch thick--or more. I'll attach a pic of the type of fastener I used, but I messed around with other ideas, and finally settled with drilling a hole for the expandable nut, and it snugged it down tight.

Only other modification I made, was to cut out a bit of the upper/left corner of the dead pedal to get it to sit perfectly flush/flat with the carpet/rubber. The OEM dead pedal/pad/carpet has a little bulge for the shape of the wheel well, so you may have to cut that corner off of the civic one too.

Oh that shifter leaves no room for wobble, and has short, crisp engagement to it. Thought the OEM was nice, but this firms up the shifting a bit better. I didn't get an e-mail notification either, and just saw that they were available and went ahead and ordered it. :)

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Discussion starter · #630 ·
friend i neeed base maps (photo ) supercharger + ktune 1.2 for crz 2011 manual
Mine is KTuner with a 2013 with CVT. I hope some of the attached pics help, but if you need a specific item view that is not included here, let me know.
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Discussion starter · #631 ·
HPD Supercharger installation instructions called for removing the radiator air guide, and leaving it off, so it's been collecting dust on the shelf in the garage for the last three years. Decided to see if I could modify it to fit with the intercooler installed. Just had to cut some holes and trim a notch out for one of the intercooler mounting points.

Before pic:
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Air Guide, after cutting access holes for the intercooler piping:
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Installed/fitted without the lower bulkhead cover:
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With lower bulkhead cover attached. [This has four points of attachment to the air guide.]
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HPD Supercharger installation instructions called for removing the radiator air guide, and leaving it off, so it's been collecting dust on the shelf in the garage for the last three years. Decided to see if I could modify it to fit with the intercooler installed. Just had to cut some holes and trim a notch out for one of the intercooler mounting points.
that looks great! wonder if it will improve the cooling or not...
 
Discussion starter · #633 ·
that looks great! wonder if it will improve the cooling or not...
Thanks! The only temp gauge I have is hooked up to the rad water, so I won't have any real measurement to compare, but I just happy to have the big scoop back on 'cause I'm getting knee deep in Honda parts laying around the garage, lol.

I can understand why they said to discard it, since there are no dotted lines on the original OEM piece to cut along for a perfect fit, but I think it makes the lower engine covers a bit more stable, in that without it, there were 4-5 clip areas that were not used, since there was nothing to clip to.
 
Discussion starter · #635 ·
Some day...then you'll wonder how you ever got along without a garage. I look at my place as a three car garage with a detached house, lol.
 
Discussion starter · #637 ·
Just a little peek of my current project. I modified the fog light bezels last year to have an open grill to match the Mugen grill a little more closely, with the plan on ducting the air to the fender well for front brake cooling. I saw that the new Civic Type R had front brake ducts, so I just bought some pieces from that car, thought I'd modify them to fit. I bought a few pieces that I'm sure I won't use, now that I look at things with the parts off to see what matches up close enough, but I can use (with modifications,) the main duct and the fender well output trim. The most authentic part of it, is I even got Honda rivets! :)

The CTR parts:
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Pic of the fog light bezel modification from the outside:
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Fused a rubber mat with a 2-3/4" hole in it, with the idea of creating an end piece of soft rubber that goes onto the modified CTR duct so that when you install the bumper, it will mate right against the hole of the rubber mat, making it integral with the bumper while having no attachment points to mess with if you ever have to remove the bumper.
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