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litz's 2013 PWP Build Thread

187K views 636 replies 63 participants last post by  litz 
#1 · (Edited)
Yes, it's time to start a build thread for the car I fully intended to keep stock. But, due to my mind wandering away from that particular goal, stuff just started to get slightly modified somehow.

Starting point (after a few years of knowing I'd be getting a CRZ someday,) was in the spring of 2013. My 2002 Silver Insight had around 180,000 miles on it, and it was time to give the old girl a break--still keeping her around--but needing to scratch that itch of a new car feel. It absolutely needed to be untouched by other owners, white, with navi, but transmission choice was a 50/50 coin toss, since I loved all aspects of both.

I found a dealer that located the only PWP EX with Navi in a 500 mile radius--or rather, located an incoming shipment on the schedule, and redirected it to his dealership. At that point, the transmission choice was made by the fact that it met all of my other criteria, so a CVT it will be. The only other necessity, was to get their body shop to throw in a PWP paint job on the wheels before I took the keys. No pics of the first two years of ownership because, after all, I wasn't going to modify it any more than the OEM wheel paint that I drove off the lot with. But then, I ran across this forum....

2002 Insight--Birgitte--The silver arrow, slicing through the wind...

2013 CRZ EX w/navi CVT
No name for her yet, but my silver insight is referred to at work as The Dolphin, and the white crz as the (Great White) Shark...

Updated photo--August 2016:

Exterior:
─Heko rain guard window visors (rg27452)
─Clear Lens LED Bumper Reflector brake lights
─Diode Dynamics LED light upgrade: Jump to "Diode Dynamics light upgrade" page of build thread
  Fog Light LEDs Cool White (6000K) XML2 (1420 lumens) 2xH8_XML2W
  Backup LEDs XP50 (410 lumens) 2x921_XP50W-bckup
  Rear Sidemarker LEDs HP3 (56 lumens) 2x194_HP3R-sid1
  Socket/light added to OEM tail light -- T10 Harness Plugs (194) with HP3 LEDs (56 lumens)
  Turn Signal LEDs front & rear (with Hyperblink Fix) Amber XP80 (510 lumens) Note curious problem (solved) after installing these: http://www.crzforum.com/forum/diode-dynamics/75745-navi-display-dims-when-braking.html#post1156737
  License Plate LEDs Cool White (6000K) HP3 (56 lumens)
─08P00-SZT-100 SPLASH GUARDS
─SEIBON Carbon Fiber Hood (HD1112HDCZ-TS) painted Premium White Pearl (NH624P) Jump to "Seibon TS hood arrived" page of build thread
─Garage Vary Rear Wing (164-114-005) Jump to "Garage Vary Rear Wing" page of build thread
─OEM Spoiler & B-Pillars painted Premium White Pearl Jump to "painted A-pillar and rear wing" page of build thread
─"H" emblems painted Brilliant Orange Metalic (YR-576M)
─"CR-Z" emblem moved from rear hatch to right/rear quarter window
─"HYBRID" emblem moved from rear hatch to left/rear quarter window

Engine:
─CR-Z Supercharger System (#1000-01-150)system-type: FlashPro Tuner, transmission: CVT
....oops! Nix the Jackson Racing Supercharger--not available for my 2013 CVT after all (Oscar Jr. refunds money after realizing they didn't have the set up for me after all.)
....should have waited for a 6-Speed when I bought my Z, I'd have the HPD kit!
─Black Label Fabrication Cold Air Intake (CAI) painted Premium White Pearl BLF CAI install pics
─Intake piping--G2 Custom Color, ─Caliper paint--G2 Custom Color, Honda Premium White Pearl
─SPRTINEX Supercharger Kit 2011-2014 Honda CR-Z with KTuner Tuning Software (SPRNTX-CRZL15SC) Jump to "Sprintex arrived" page of build thread or video of first start-up on the Sprintex Thread ...or --my belt replacement technique -- --Click for 2013+ Sprintex wiring diagram page
─Mugen Cat Back Stainless Steel Exhaust for CR-Z
─T1R HEADER (ZF1/GE8) Item# 18100-LEA-000 Jump to "T1R Header" page of build thread
─Engine bay right/left side covers (fabricated from OEM Premium White Pearl parts) Jump to "Fabricated engine covers" page of build thread
─Valve cover painted Brilliant Orange Metalic

Suspension/wheels/brakes:
─Mugen 5-Way Adjustable Suspension Kit for CR-Z
─OEM wheels--Painted Honda Premium White Pearl Jump to "powder coated lug nuts & OEM wheels in PWP" page of build thread
─Beatrush Front PillowBall Mounts Jump to "Beatrush pillowball mounts arrived" page of build thread
─Spoon Front Sway Bar click here for my install notes on CR-Z Canadian's DIY
─Progress Rear Sway Bar
─Lug nuts--Powder coated White Pearl
─Tires--Dunlop Direzza DZ102 P215/50R16
─Caliper paint--G2 Custom Color, Honda Brilliant Orange Metalic

Interior:
─08U89-SZT-150 ARMREST CONSOLE (replaced original blue stitching with orange stitching) click here for armrest/console install page
─6-Speed Shift Boot DIY: CVT with 6-Speed shift boot
─2016 Orange trimmed/stitched interior: Seats, Door Panels, Steering Wheel, Shift Boot, and Floor Mats Jump to "black/orange interior swap" page of build thread
─C-West CFRP Triple Gauge Pod Jump to "Gauge install part 1 of 3" page of build thread or (part 2) or final gauge pod modifications (part 3) Initial group buy:http://www.crzforum.com/forum/after...carbon-fiber-triple-gauge-pod.html#post991865
  Revel VLS OLED Gauges - 52mm Boost, Water Temperature, Wideband A/F Ratio
─Mini CF Double Gauge Pod (fabricated into center dash vent)
  AutoMeter Gauges - 1-½" Volts, Oil Pressure
─LetRipp USB software port
─Spare Tire Compartment storage area modifications [click here]
─Kidde Fire Extinguisher (ABC) Jump to "Kidde Fire Extinguisher" page of build thread
─Stinger RKST36B Roadkill Jump to CRyoZ's "DIY - Stinger Roadkill Tips"
─Jtech 10x 194 168 2825 T10 5-SMD Blue LED Car Lights - Cargo, Rear Tray, Doors

Miscellaneous:
─2011-2012 CR-Z Service Manual (no 2013 available at the time) click here for PDF version, thanks to KennyX
─08703-NH624PAH-2P Touch-up PAINT *NH624P
─Honda Melco Yellow 2016 USB maps update
─Innovative Mounts Mount Kit 2011+ Honda CR-Z 75A CVT (INNV-ZF175A) --removed--available FS
click here for Idle Control Learn & CKP Pattern learn procedure

June 2015:
White hot engine compartment:


July 2015:
Exterior pics, tinted rear and quarter windows:




January 2016:
Seibon TS carbon fiber hood (vented,) painted to match OEM, plus a few touch ups to the engine bay and the underside of the hood:


August 2016:


April 2017:
 
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#5 ·
Yeah, ordered the SC about a year ago--actually paid for it, and was waiting shipment--even had a week off work scheduled to instal it--and was running high-test fuel to clean out the 87-octane. ...Just checked my e-mail for the order#, and it was exactly a year ago today:

Your order has been received and is now being processed. Your order details are shown below for your reference:
Order: #1636
Product Quantity Price
CR-Z Supercharger System (#1000-01-150)
system-type: FlashPro Tuner,
transmission: CVT 1 $5,195.00
Push Pin Pliers Set (#08010-23080)
1 $44.99
Cart Subtotal: $5,239.99
Shipping: $137.22 via UPS Ground
Order Total: $5,377.21

Note: 2013 CR-Z with CVT

...about a week or so later Oscar Jr. gave me another call, saying he just noticed the note on the order form about the 2013 with CVT--sorry, not available.:blink:
 
#6 ·
Nice work on the car so far! I like the engine bay stuff especially.

You say in that supercharger part that you should have gotten a manual instead in relation to the kit. You do realize it's not because of the CVT that you can't get the Jackson Racing kit right?
 
#8 ·
Yeah, that was my understanding at the time (no flashpro for 2013,) but as I understand it now, if I had a 6-speed, the HPD supercharger would be available for my 2013. Is that correct? I've kind of lost interest in either JR supercharger, or the HPD, since my 2013/CVT can't handle either. There's still the sprintex option, unless I've gotten that wrong also. Thanks for catching the wording--I'll edit it--once I get my facts straight.
 
#9 ·
And that's what got me searching the web for more info about a year ago, and how I stumbled upon the crzforum. All I found was that I was SOL, I heard about the HPD and got my hopes back up. :ionono: ---Oh, no, that's no good for me either :iough::blink:
 
#13 ·
Supercharger itch again....

Started reading the installation instructions for the Sprintex Supercharger:
http://sprintexusa.com/wp-content/u...nstructions-Rev-1.00-8.5-x-11-Page-Format.pdf

No, I don't have one in a box sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed. But I did send an inquiry to them about getting one. The first thing I noticed in the parts list, was that it didn't include an additional radiator for CVT cooling, so I'm wondering if it will need extra cooling. That's just a start of the questions I'll have, but after reading the rest of the instructions and going back through the Sprintex threads on the forum, I'll probably find as many answers, as I will find questions that I haven't even thought to ask.
 
#18 ·
Started reading the installation instructions for the Sprintex Supercharger:
http://sprintexusa.com/wp-content/u...nstructions-Rev-1.00-8.5-x-11-Page-Format.pdf

No, I don't have one in a box sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed. But I did send an inquiry to them about getting one. The first thing I noticed in the parts list, was that it didn't include an additional radiator for CVT cooling, so I'm wondering if it will need extra cooling. That's just a start of the questions I'll have, but after reading the rest of the instructions and going back through the Sprintex threads on the forum, I'll probably find as many answers, as I will find questions that I haven't even thought to ask.
Jackson racing is planning on releasing their Tranny cooler separately. Just waiting on when. :thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
Some pics of the wheels & caliper paint:


Just painted them back in May, but so far, as with the white wheels, no problem keeping them clean. While I was letting the paint dry on the calipers, I gave the wheels a coat of WheelWax, and I've noticed a big difference in the amount of brake dust that always built up before using WheelWax.
 
#15 ·
My rear H-emblem; started its life chrome, then went to chrome circle around a red "H", then plasti-dipped white. Took it off to replace the 3M tape (too thick, didn't fit flush.) But plasti-dip started to peel, so I'll be painting it PWP.


Since I'm going to do some painting, it's time to try my skills (no-skills) at touching up the side of my car that got slammed with debris from the mower/weeder while it was parked at the far corner of the lot at work. I was a bit miffed that the whole side of my car was plastered with grass, but under the grass I found my first ding in the side and chipped-off paint on the mirror surround.
 
#22 ·
No pics or a purchase yet, but I found a tuner who'd like to take my car for a ride on his dyno after I install my Sprintex supercharger.:thumbsup: Whoooohooooo!
 
#24 ·
Numbers??? Yeah, I just punched in a few numbers on the phone and got Zach on the other end. Placed the order for the Sprintex--but it's not white, so I'll have to paint it before the install, just to make sure it's the fastest Sprintex on the road.:rotfl:
 
#26 ·
Good idea, Cin Z, I was also thinking about using G2 caliper paint. I'll have to look around the area to see who'd do the powder coat. Only thing about painting it, is that it will delay my install, but I know there are gauges and other things that I want to round-up before the install also.
 
#29 ·
Yep. I'll keep you updated on how it goes here, too. And since I think I'm the only one on the forum with a 2013(+) CVT U.S. version, it'll be interesting to wire-up, but I'll take it to the dyno shortly after the install to have it tuned for sure.

I'm spending some time on the Sprintex thread, so I'm reliving your story, and half way through reading it again! I wasn't around the forum at the time this was going on, so I'm playing catch-up on it all. Thanks for your insights.
 
#36 ·
Thanks for adding MartinT--I just got finished reading through his build thread--and wish him well on the install (in progress?) Also, Zach, can you check with Gary over at Sprintex, to see if he has any opinions on me painting the SC before the install, please? I'm concerned about the affect on cooling and/or warranty issues. I know powder coating would hold-up better, but it is also thicker and may not dissipate heat as well as, say, caliper paint--wondering if painting it is absolutely not recommended.
 
#38 ·
Thanks, man. I'm out of the office too, 'til Monday. Nice to see you're always in the office for some customer service.:thumbsup: Enjoy your 4th of weekend!
 
#40 ·
I finished my rear window tinting this morning and just took some pics from different angles since I was walking around it, looking to see if there were any obvious bubbles and such from my amateur job (added them to the first page of build.) Everything passed my inspection, so I'm glad I got it done and didn't have to redo anything.

It's funny how I think I'm done with a mod and start cleaning up the area, only to start on something else with the 'Z. Well, I really didn't do anything but take some parts off, and then put them back on, trying to find a good place to mount some gauges for the coming Sprintex build. So I took some small 1-1/2" gauges that I found by chance, and started holding them up to different areas of the dash for possibilities of finding the perfect place to mount them.

Before I knew it, the vents were removed, the whole face of the dash was off, as well as the sun-glass container--or whatever that compartment in the center-top of the dashboard is called. I was thinking of mounting them on the bottom of that lid, so that they could be concealed in the closed position, and when the car was started, they'd be available by just lifting it open. Great idea, if there was any extra space under there to get the lid to close with gauges in there. NIX that idea!

Another bright idea that fizzles out turned into another bright idea... Maybe I can make a template and mount them in the center vent:



Two of them just barely fit there, so it would be great if I could figure out the two most essential gauges to put there...but what do I need/want most? Boost...fuel/air...fuel pressure...water temp...CVT temp...Hmmmmmm....
 
#41 ·
Not bad. I think they look good there. I have my boost gauge mounted above the cup holder. Buttttt, that is going to change shortly. Mainly because I'm running more gauges.

Right now I'm going to do Boost and air/fuel. Then I'm not sure.

But all those would be good choices to run. Least important one I would say is fuel pressure. Idk how accurate it would be with our set up (4 injectors running the same pressure and one different).
 
#42 ·
Not bad. I think they look good there. I have my boost gauge mounted above the cup holder. Buttttt, that is going to change shortly. ...Right now I'm going to do Boost and air/fuel. Then I'm not sure....
Yeah, thanks--so I think I've found the spot for the Boost and Trans. temp gauges, but the air/fuel will not make it to that cluster, since I haven't seen one in the round 1-1/2" size; maybe that will be a smaller digital one--for the air/fuel gauge, which will be easier to fit elsewhere.

fabricated a better template to use for the gauges--test drive in the sunshine and all posed no blinding reflections, just need to fine-tune a better fit & finish...
 
#44 ·
Yeah, but some of those great ideas get shut down in the face of reality sometimes. I thought there would be at least a few centimeters extra if I did away with the tray (or cut some relief holes in it, at least,) but NOOOooooo! at least not without taking the whole dash apart and modifying the heater/cooling ducts....

But, now that you mention it, that heater duct is something I'm not using/bypassing, in order to mount the two gauges in the center pod, so it might be that I could disconnect it further back into the mysterious nooks and crannies of the dash, and then I'd have enough extra space to justify cutting the bottom of the tray for even more gauges there too. Thanks a lot Holly! Now I'll be taking more pieces and parts apart to see what's really in there!:blink: I'll have to put off that going where no mod has gone before mod until next weekend.:thumbsup:
 
#45 ·
There is some room under there, but not much. Its enough to run a bundle of wires down behind the radio and through the dash. I managed to tuck my gauge wires out of sight for a nice clean look when the lid is down.
 
#46 ·
Yeah, I like that look you've got going there with your gauges, but I'm still brainstorming the ideas for mounting these smaller 1-1/2" gauges--thinking there might be enough room to mount them so that you could close the lid to conceal the gauges under there when not in use--when parked. I guess I'm asking for a lot more room under there than actually exists, but it's nice to know there's at least enough space for routing wires. --Still experimenting to see all the possible locations that these smaller gauges can go....
 
#49 ·
Thanks Zach! Just a couple of items that I couldn't find at the parts store on my way home will delay the instal a bit:
Redline 75W/90NS HP gear oil (54ml)
NGK IZFR6K13 spark plugs
...I'll see if I can get them by going the other direction tomorrow (I live at the crossroads of "25 miles to the store" in all four directions--but there are a number of Bars & Churches close by, in case you want to drink and forget or pray for a drink!)
:beer::blink::rotfl::thumbsup:

All of these parts will soon find a way under the hood:
 
#55 ·
Shortly after I got mine installed, I bought another belt like the one that came with the kit (green btw), just to have in case I needed it.

The problem was it came exactly twice as wide as the original one in the kit was. It was nothing a careful cutting with a knife didn't fix. You could call it a two for one deal.
 
#56 ·
Yeah, that's a good idea, having an extra--two. At first, I thought there was an upgrade or something, since I got a black belt (instead of green.) The one thing that surprised me was that the unit came already filled with oil--I was actually running around looking for some Red Line (wasting time,) on Saturday while I could have been starting the instal--Hard stuff to find, in my neck of the woods.
 
#60 ·
I've just been out in the garage for an hour or so, revealing my wiring for the Sprintex piggyback, and I'm not sure if I'm looking at the diagram and pinouts correctly, because the wire colors do not match the pinout numbers. It seems that the brown wire to pinout #1 for the B connector is the only one that matches-up. Can anybody point me in the right direction, please? Is it a matter of just going with the correct pinouts and ignoring the wire color? That's a bit unnerving.

 
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