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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short , 3 weeks ago had Ima lights up , Honda wanted 7k for new battery and we're unwilling to tell me what was wrong in detail . My son bought a clone hds that said what bms board was at fault . With peters help we changed the boards at fault and my car works . Highly recommend contacting him if you have any Ima battery issues . Many thanks Peter ..your a true gent ..and IMA legend 馃憤
 

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Glad to hear he got you back on the road again.

If you don't mind me asking, what did the repair end up costing you? Im sure it wash cheaper than 7k for a new batt
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm happy to help with IMA stuff if I can.
To summarise the technical problem for the forum..

This was a lithium pack with a permanent P0B3B fault. (Battery Voltage Sensor internal Circuit Error.)
It completely disables the IMA so has to be fixed.

Basically Honda UK were useless and just wanted them to replace the pack. 拢7k
The owner lives a long way from me but had access to people who could take the pack out and replace bits etc so.........

I got the owner to buy a clone HDS 拢100? so they could properly identify the fault and do some other diagnostics checks, cell voltages etc.
The HDS indicated the BMS board D was likely faulty or there was a wiring issue.

They pulled the pack and did some basic wiring checks for bad connections/broken wires etc to no avail.
I have spare Lithium pack BMS boards so I sent a new D board and they swapped out the board but the fault remained.
Now I have had issues in the past with the HDS software, it's massively complicated and does have some bugs in it.
In this case it looks like the BMS boards are incorrectly identified (reversed) on the screen so they swapped out board A and the car now works fine.

I charged 拢150 per board, and they could have got away with just swapping out A, but left D in as well as it is a PITA to take the Lithium pack out and apart each time.
Total cost for my help and spare boards was 拢300 for two BMS boards ( A & D) and several phone calls/many messages with diagnostic advice.

I'm going to look (test/prod) the faulty BMS board when I get it back from the owner later in the week.

IMHO every serious CR-Z owner should really have a clone HDS for troubleshooting.
They are invaluable! (y)
 

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Thank you for the update on this issue. Can you recommend a seller of clone HDS?
Read this complete thread.
 

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A note for anyone reading that thread, the link I posted for the HDS unit I bought is no longer valid and goes to something else.
Yeah I was checking it and it said it was no longer available. Do you know the name of the tool? A Pic would be helpful too, if you have one.
 

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It's Honda HDS but you're looking for a clone and not the real one (unless you've got a few $K to spend).
The link in the first post in the thread does go to the right unit although that vendor is in China and not where I got mine. Some have bought those and been happy so it's up to you. I was able to find one shipped from within the US at the time, don't know if that's still possible. The vendors are all Chinese anyway.
 

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I've been doing some testing on the dodgy? Lithium BMS boards Emma has returned to me.
At the moment I can't find anything wrong with them. :unsure:

There are no obvious physical failure signs, blown parts etc.

Both the suspect A & D boards are transmitting CAN data in apparently the correct format and with the correct ID.
The cell voltage data looks correct at first glance but I will need to do some more digging on that in due course.

Hmm interesting and I'm still thinking about bad connections as a possibility. Very odd.
 

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Hey Peter, hope youre well. Do you have any recommendations on where I could find a HDS clone to purchase?
I don't have any specific supplier recommendations.

Read this thread then do some searching on google/e-bay/amazon/aliexpress etc.

 

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I've been doing some testing on the dodgy? Lithium BMS boards Emma has returned to me.
At the moment I can't find anything wrong with them. :unsure:

There are no obvious physical failure signs, blown parts etc.

Both the suspect A & D boards are transmitting CAN data in apparently the correct format and with the correct ID.
The cell voltage data looks correct at first glance but I will need to do some more digging on that in due course.

Hmm interesting and I'm still thinking about bad connections as a possibility. Very odd.
Hi, I have a Honda Crz Zf2 and got the same IMA and red battery sign on the dash couple of days ago. So without goin into details, I followed your threads and reach to conclusion that my BMS Board is probably faulty too (P0B3B(03) error on obd dignostic tool).

Im from Pakistan and we have around 20+ CRZs in our group here and no one ever face this issue in my circle and I also couldn't find anything on the internet apart from your couple of threads on this topic. workshops here suggested to replace the full battery pack but Battery pack for a CRZ is very Rare to find here and obviously extremely expensive. So I have two Questions if you could answer please.

1: Does IMA battery pack for Honda CRZ and Honda Fit/Vezel is same? Does It also have BMS boards too on Fit/Vezel Batery Pack? Vezel is pretty common here and its battery pack is relatively easier to find.

2: Is the BMS Board you got is repairable (if you found it faulty)? it would be very nice if you will share your findings here with us.

any help in this regard is really appreciated
 

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IMA Enthusiast
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Well you def have a problem.
You might need an A board or a D board or both or you have bad connections.
I have not reached any firm conclusions about the faulty? BMS boards from the UK car yet.

I have no idea about the Fit or Vezel as I have never seen those cars or the battery packs.
You will need to Google for pictures of the Lithium BMS boards in those cars and compare part numbers etc.
Post pics if you find them and I will comment.

You can find CR-Z BMS boards on e-bay by searching for the part numbers.
The Lithium Civic Hybrid has the same boards IIRC.

2013-2016 Honda CR-Z IMA Hybrid Battery CELLS lithium ion battery | eBay is a pack with boards attached.
 

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Well you def have a problem.
You might need an A board or a D board or both or you have bad connections.
I have not reached any firm conclusions about the faulty? BMS boards from the UK car yet.

I have no idea about the Fit or Vezel as I have never seen those cars or the battery packs.
You will need to Google for pictures of the Lithium BMS boards in those cars and compare part numbers etc.
Post pics of you find them and I will comment.

You can find CR-Z BMS boards on e-bay by searching for the part numbers.
The Lithium Civic Hybrid has the same boards IIRC.
@PeterPerkins Thank you soo much for your Quick reply, I ll definitely check for loose connection tomorrow and update here if thats the case.
ebay rarely delivers in our area so thats why i was looking for some other Honda car with same battery pack but i ll do a bit more research on it. Thank you for replying :)
 

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Uzair.

Ideally I would want to see the cell voltages on the tester/obd reader so you may well need a clone HDS.
If you have access to one what are the voltages for all 40 cells? Are they all roughly the same?
Is one board (10 cells) obviously not working (no voltages?)

Once you have the pack out of the car and access to the boards.
Unplug and replug the two HV connectors on each board several times.

Then

Unplug all four boards low voltage side CAN connectors and check for corrosion/damage/damp/continuity etc.
Unplug and replug each CAN connector several times.

The four separate wires for the CAN low voltage harness are daisy chained between connectors or all connect to a central point.
The red wire on A should have continuity to the red wires on the others B,C,D etc Ditto the other colours. Check this carefully.

After you have checked/cleaned connectors etc I would quickly try the pack back in the car and see if the fault has gone.
If not then it's time to swap out boards, in your case starting with A and possibly D.
 

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Uzair.

Ideally I would want to see the cell voltages on the tester/obd reader so you may well need a clone HDS.
If you have access to one what are the voltages for all 40 cells? Are they all roughly the same?
Is one board (10 cells) obviously not working (no voltages?)

Once you have the pack out of the car and access to the boards.
Unplug and replug the two HV connectors on each board several times.

Then

Unplug all four boards low voltage side CAN connectors and check for corrosion/damage/damp/continuity etc.
Unplug and replug each CAN connector several times.

The four separate wires for the CAN low voltage harness are daisy chained between connectors or all connect to a central point.
The red wire on A should have continuity to the red wires on the others B,C,D etc Ditto the other colours. Check this carefully.

After you have checked/cleaned connectors etc I would quickly try the pack back in the car and see if the fault has gone.
If not then it's time to swap out boards, in your case starting with A and possibly D.

Hi peter,

Sorry for getting back to you late, i was arranging for tools to open up the hybrid pack, i could not arrange an HDS but i was able to open up the battery pack and get access to the boards,

all the connections seems pretty tight already and no corrosion or water damage was seen on any of the connection, even the A board itself look pretty new. No apparent Burn or anything.
I will still clean the connections with some contact cleaner before reassembling but before that, is there any way i could confirm if all the 4 boards or battery are working fine with some continuity test or by testing voltages etc across the 4 Boards/Packs with multimeter?

Could you please also let me know what should be the total voltages to expect on the main black and red wires if all 4 boards are working fine?

(im very sorry im new to all this Electrical stuff. Any help in this regard is much appreciated)

Thank you
 

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I assume you have done all the procedures and continuity checks I mentioned above?
If so then when you have cleaned connectors on all the boards put it back together and see if it works?

If it doesn't then you will just have to replace boards. Starting with A then possibly D.
You cannot test the boards easily except in the car unless you have special equipment.

Forget about the expected voltages for now.
 

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I assume you have done all the procedures and continuity checks I mentioned above?
If so then when you have cleaned connectors on all the boards put it back together and see if it works?

If it doesn't then you will just have to replace boards. Starting with A then possibly D.
You cannot test the boards easily except in the car unless you have special equipment.

Forget about the expected voltages for now.
Alright.. Yes i have done all the steps you mentioned above. I will now try the pack back in the car then. Thank you soo much for your help
 
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