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Hello, I need some advice on how I can make this look neat and organize, I'm currently driving with these just ziptied and the headlight dust cover not screwed on.
2011 Z Ex that had H11 halogen bulbs for Brights/DRL.
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That looks like a mess man. I just wouldn't do it honestly. Not worth keeping those caps open. Considering your HID bulbs are about $150/each, you better get those closed up asap. Your only option looks like cutting / extending the wiring. Maybe they make some type of harness? Or you could buy a set of LED wires from diode dynamics that are made to fit:


Honestly, why did you go LED? Just because? You CAN get nice halogen bulbs.\

Even in their instructions it says 'the dust cap may need to be modified in order to fit'. So.. im guessing that is the ticket. Just not sure HOW you would modify it really, as there isn't much to them. I wouldnt want a loose seal on those, because it WILL ruin your bulbs. You are on borrowed time.. hate to say it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That looks like a mess man. I just wouldn't do it honestly. Not worth keeping those caps open. Considering your HID bulbs are about $150/each, you better get those closed up asap. Your only option looks like cutting / extending the wiring. Maybe they make some type of harness? Or you could buy a set of LED wires from diode dynamics that are made to fit:


Honestly, why did you go LED? Just because? You CAN get nice halogen bulbs.\

Even in their instructions it says 'the dust cap may need to be modified in order to fit'. So.. im guessing that is the ticket. Just not sure HOW you would modify it really, as there isn't much to them. I wouldnt want a loose seal on those, because it WILL ruin your bulbs. You are on borrowed time.. hate to say it.
  • Yeah, just because haha. But it's alright now, I did some trial and error with different brands of LED on amazon and I just found one (Hikari 2020 HB3) that didn't required a decoder and didn't gave me a DRL error message on the dash. It's a tad longer than the halogen bulb considering that it had a fan at the back but it fits just fine, no modification required on the dust cap. I was also looking at the diode dynamics LED but it was kinda pricey for my budget.
 

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  • Yeah, just because haha. But it's alright now, I did some trial and error with different brands of LED on amazon and I just found one (Hikari 2020 HB3) that didn't required a decoder and didn't gave me a DRL error message on the dash. It's a tad longer than the halogen bulb considering that it had a fan at the back but it fits just fine, no modification required on the dust cap. I was also looking at the diode dynamics LED but it was kinda pricey for my budget.
Hey there, been eyeing the forums for a while here and there trying to get some ideas on what to add to the Z and finally became an official member. Like most, I'm Not a fan of the DRL in my 2012 EX so I scoured the internet and Youtube for some solid LED alternatives. I decided on the Hikari Ultra 9005/HB3 and even installed them myself, which is saying a lot for Me!! Anyways, after installing the driver side bulb everything was fine, but once I installed the passenger side bulb and turned the car on, I began getting the error message on the dash. I know this is an issue when installing some bulbs and there are other posts on here about it. I'm trying to contact Hikari but seem to be going in circles atm. I know that they may require the headlight decoder, which I don't think I want to do since these bulbs are kinda big and there's already enough wiring going on.

So I guess that was all just a very long winded way of wanting to ask how the Hikari 2020 LED bulbs have been working for you and your opinion on whether I should just return the Ultras because of the error messages and needing to purchase decoders, or simply get the 2020 version instead?

Also, apologies to all who read this for the rambling. I'm admittedly not very knowledgeable about cars and have just began taking a real interest, even though I've had my crz for a few years now. Just learning as I go. Thank You!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hey there, been eyeing the forums for a while here and there trying to get some ideas on what to add to the Z and finally became an official member. Like most, I'm Not a fan of the DRL in my 2012 EX so I scoured the internet and Youtube for some solid LED alternatives. I decided on the Hikari Ultra 9005/HB3 and even installed them myself, which is saying a lot for Me!! Anyways, after installing the driver side bulb everything was fine, but once I installed the passenger side bulb and turned the car on, I began getting the error message on the dash. I know this is an issue when installing some bulbs and there are other posts on here about it. I'm trying to contact Hikari but seem to be going in circles atm. I know that they may require the headlight decoder, which I don't think I want to do since these bulbs are kinda big and there's already enough wiring going on.

So I guess that was all just a very long winded way of wanting to ask how the Hikari 2020 LED bulbs have been working for you and your opinion on whether I should just return the Ultras because of the error messages and needing to purchase decoders, or simply get the 2020 version instead?

Also, apologies to all who read this for the rambling. I'm admittedly not very knowledgeable about cars and have just began taking a real interest, even though I've had my crz for a few years now. Just learning as I go. Thank You!
Sorry for the late response but I traded my Z 2 months ago with a 2019 Insight Touring. I've never had any issue with the Hikari LED lights that I got, I would return it and ask for just the Hikari 2020 HB3 (i'll send you the amazon link of the exact one that I got) because I've never tried the Ultra's myself. I don't know much about the Difference with the Z's but I did had a 2011 EX compared to your 2012
 

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Hey, no problem at all. Thanks for the response. Been so frustrated dealing with these damn lights the past couple weeks. Haha I just want them to work right and look good.
Sounds like the 2020 version would work a lot better. I guess my only questions now are how do these work without a load resistor? I'm only asking because all I've been reading is that the Z Needs them whenever upgrading to LED in order to not get the error message and to do something with all the extra power / heat. But if the answer's "just because", then that's good enough for me lol
Also, do the fans still turn on while in DRL mode or only when using them as highbeams? Wouldn't want them to overheat and damage anything.
Again, Thank YOU so much for the help and info!
 

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Hey, no problem at all. Thanks for the response. Been so frustrated dealing with these damn lights the past couple weeks. Haha I just want them to work right and look good.
Sounds like the 2020 version would work a lot better. I guess my only questions now are how do these work without a load resistor? I'm only asking because all I've been reading is that the Z Needs them whenever upgrading to LED in order to not get the error message and to do something with all the extra power / heat. But if the answer's "just because", then that's good enough for me lol
Also, do the fans still turn on while in DRL mode or only when using them as highbeams? Wouldn't want them to overheat and damage anything.
Again, Thank YOU so much for the help and info!
When in DRL mode, the fan doesn't spin. The LEDs do run at a lower power, though, so they produce less heat. The load resistor is needed to eliminate the "Check DRL System" error you get on the dashboard. It's annoying because it pops up every time you flash your high beams and whenever you're scrolling through menus.
 
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Yes, however FacelisGOD is saying that this particular LED, the Hikari 2020, does not need a load resistor in order to work properly and without getting the "Check DRL System' error. Which sounds great to me.
And I was just wondering if they would get damaged or overheated while running at the lower power in DRL mode since the fans don't come on, but sounds like they will be fine without them.
Thank You!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, however FacelisGOD is saying that this particular LED, the Hikari 2020, does not need a load resistor in order to work properly and without getting the "Check DRL System' error. Which sounds great to me.
And I was just wondering if they would get damaged or overheated while running at the lower power in DRL mode since the fans don't come on, but sounds like they will be fine without them.
Thank You!
I honestly don't know how they made it work, I'm not very technical myself but from their Amazon product listing, a lot of people mentioned that it played nicely with the Honda canbus system which made it a plug n play installation process. Seems that they have found a way to integrate it on their chip inside the LED (Just pulling shit out of my ass now, I could be wrong lol) but like what I said, never had an issue with the LEDs, no dash error, nothing on my 11 Ex (I thought it was broken tbh, when I checked my dash cam clips, the light seems to be blinking. Its my first time experiencing led headlights and found out that it was normal, it's becauseof the difference between the refresh rate of the dash cam and the light or somethinglike that), although your experience may vary. That's the beauty of Prime, return it if it doesn't work out and try other brands.
 

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Chances are that these particular LEDs simply have a load resistor inside. I don't like this design much, since it produces a lot of extra heat. The lights never actually interact with the canbus system at all. Instead, there's a small computer controlling the lights and it detects how much power they are consuming. If they're not consuming enough, the computer assumes the bulb is burnt out and sends the warning through the canbus. That's why the resistor can trick the computer, because it consumes power.

The reason the LED is flashing is because of the way that DRLs work. The computer uses something called Pulse Width Modulation, or PWM, to dim the light. Basically, it turns the light on and off so fast that it's nearly imperceptible. Because halogen lights take a few fractions of a second to respond to brightness changes, this smooths out the flashing so it appears to glow steadily. LEDs, on the other hand, respond instantly so they appear to be flickering. Our eyes are kinda slow, so this flickering usually isn't very visible, but cameras are very sensitive to this flickering.
 
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Chances are that these particular LEDs simply have a load resistor inside. I don't like this design much, since it produces a lot of extra heat. The lights never actually interact with the canbus system at all. Instead, there's a small computer controlling the lights and it detects how much power they are consuming. If they're not consuming enough, the computer assumes the bulb is burnt out and sends the warning through the canbus. That's why the resistor can trick the computer, because it consumes power.

The reason the LED is flashing is because of the way that DRLs work. The computer uses something called Pulse Width Modulation, or PWM, to dim the light. Basically, it turns the light on and off so fast that it's nearly imperceptible. Because halogen lights take a few fractions of a second to respond to brightness changes, this smooths out the flashing so it appears to glow steadily. LEDs, on the other hand, respond instantly so they appear to be flickering. Our eyes are kinda slow, so this flickering usually isn't very visible, but cameras are very sensitive to this flickering.
TIL Thanks for the clarification.
 

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Hey Guys,
Checking In - and I've got some great news!!
I returned the first set of LED's that I ordered and got the Hikari 2020 version instead. And Wow! I've had them installed for a few days now and they seem to be working just fine. They may not be AS bright as the Hikari Ultra's, which were lowkey blindingly bright lol, but they still produce a very bright, white light that shines far downroad. Also, the fans DO come on while in DRL mode, which was a fear of mine. So yeah, a few days in and I'm loving them. No messy decoder, No DRL Error Message, & No load resistors needed. Hoping everything remains running smoothly!! 🤞

Also, HUGEEE Thank You to @FacelisGOD for the help and info on these kickass LED bulbs. 👏👏

Here's the link if anyone is interested. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNYRJM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Hey Guys,
Checking In - and I've got some great news!!
I returned the first set of LED's that I ordered and got the Hikari 2020 version instead. And Wow! I've had them installed for a few days now and they seem to be working just fine. They may not be AS bright as the Hikari Ultra's, which were lowkey blindingly bright lol, but they still produce a very bright, white light that shines far downroad. Also, the fans DO come on while in DRL mode, which was a fear of mine. So yeah, a few days in and I'm loving them. No messy decoder, No DRL Error Message, & No load resistors needed. Hoping everything remains running smoothly!! 🤞

Also, HUGEEE Thank You to @FacelisGOD for the help and info on these kickass LED bulbs. 👏👏

Here's the link if anyone is interested. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNYRJM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice. Could you post a picture of how the beam looks against a wall? I'm curious to see, as my current LEDs don't work too well.
 

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So when I first installed these lights, I thought that the passenger side looked a little different. However- it was late, I was sweaty, tired, and just happy that they were installed and working properly to begin with so I didn't think much of it. But when I went to take these photos, I could clearly see that the passenger side is not as white or "focused" as the other. Do you agree?
No worries though, I already ordered another set to swap out the janky bulb, or perhaps both. Other than that, I'm still very happy with them and the upgraded brightness they provide.

These are with the DRL on:

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These are with the High Beams on:
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Discussion Starter #17
Hey Guys,
Checking In - and I've got some great news!!
I returned the first set of LED's that I ordered and got the Hikari 2020 version instead. And Wow! I've had them installed for a few days now and they seem to be working just fine. They may not be AS bright as the Hikari Ultra's, which were lowkey blindingly bright lol, but they still produce a very bright, white light that shines far downroad. Also, the fans DO come on while in DRL mode, which was a fear of mine. So yeah, a few days in and I'm loving them. No messy decoder, No DRL Error Message, & No load resistors needed. Hoping everything remains running smoothly!! 🤞

Also, HUGEEE Thank You to @FacelisGOD for the help and info on these kickass LED bulbs. 👏👏

Here's the link if anyone is interested. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNYRJM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Glad it worked out!
 

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This pattern is horrible anyway
you think? its definitely different, but it looks like it would work well. The pattern with halogens is very narrow too, with a hotspot shaped like a ^. I tried two different LEDs with a more traditional CSP chip arrangement, and it did mimic the original pattern pretty well, but the hotspot wasn't very focused, so the high beams didn't illuminate well at a distance.

I could clearly see that the passenger side is not as white or "focused" as the other. Do you agree
yeah, it's clearly visible. For some reason, the CR-Z's high beam housings hold the bulbs at about a 30 degree angle, instead of vertically. In my case, I had to modify the base of the LEDs so they sit correctly, which is with the diodes facing towards the sides. of course, they weren't 100% acurate, so my left and right high beams are very slightly different. I'd investigate further for a good LED light that works with the CR-Z and isn't super expensive, but I ended up getting bi-xenon projectors which makes the stock high beams reduntant at night.

Edit: some pics if anyone's interested.

Stock high beam only (aftermarket LEDs)
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Stock high beam + Mini D2S high beam (aftermarket LEDs +55w HIDs)
62466
 

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you think? its definitely different, but it looks like it would work well. The pattern with halogens is very narrow too, with a hotspot shaped like a ^. I tried two different LEDs with a more traditional CSP chip arrangement, and it did mimic the original pattern pretty well, but the hotspot wasn't very focused, so the high beams didn't illuminate well at a distance.


yeah, it's clearly visible. For some reason, the CR-Z's high beam housings hold the bulbs at about a 30 degree angle, instead of vertically. In my case, I had to modify the base of the LEDs so they sit correctly, which is with the diodes facing towards the sides. of course, they weren't 100% acurate, so my left and right high beams are very slightly different. I'd investigate further for a good LED light that works with the CR-Z and isn't super expensive, but I ended up getting bi-xenon projectors which makes the stock high beams reduntant at night.

Edit: some pics if anyone's interested.

Stock high beam only (aftermarket LEDs)
View attachment 62465

Stock high beam + Mini D2S high beam (aftermarket LEDs +55w HIDs) View attachment 62466
In my case, low beam:
1603934493174.png 1603934503118.png

High beam:
1603934527179.png 1603934535584.png

This is all OEM halogen, especially in low beam it does have a clean cutoff, while high beam is nicely focused.
 
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