Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner
41 - 60 of 124 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Does anyone know about the product described below? My dealer said I might be interested in it (and he doesn't install it - recommended a third party shop) Thanks!!

Paint Protection Film - 8 Mil
Auto Paint Guard located in Tampa, FL protects the leading edge of your vehicle from damage caused by rocks, gravel, salt or insects through the application of a thin and virtually invisible urethane film. The paint protection film will allow the love bugs to wash off easier while giving you extra time in between washes, Guaranteed!

Paint protection products are made using a rugged eight mil (.008") clear urethane plastic employing a clear-coat finish for maximum shine. This durable material has been used successfully for years by the military, various auto manufacturers, and NASCAR race teams in rock chip prone areas with incredible results. There are many names for paint protection such as clear bra, invisible bra, clear car bra and clearshield.
Clear Bra Paint Protection Film products are maintenance free. They won't damage your paint and they do not alter your vehicle's aerodynamics or appearance. The 3M Clear Bra Film is warranted by 3M™ not to yellow, crack or peel for 5 years after installation.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
Does anyone know about the product described below? My dealer said I might be interested in it (and he doesn't install it - recommended a third party shop) Thanks!!
<SNIP>
Clear Bra Paint Protection Film products are maintenance free. They won't damage your paint and they do not alter your vehicle's aerodynamics or appearance. The 3M Clear Bra Film is warranted by 3M™ not to yellow, crack or peel for 5 years after installation.
Clear Bra works pretty well! It will definitely help with rock chips... mine has already saved my hood a time or two. A good installer can cover all of the areas on your vehicle that are prone to rock chips. It isnt cheap though.. but it does work.

I would check around... do some "google-ing". read reviews of installers / shops in your area. Pick the one that gets the best reviews... the dealer may get a kickback from the one he recommended, and it may not be the best out there.

Good luck with it!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
Thanks ever. Hope it isn't too costly. My dealer told me not to get the protectant for the rear bumper and door rims that Honda sells - look into the clear bra instead.
The stuff that Honda offers for the rear hatch area, and the door edges... is clear bra... basically the same stuff.

depending on where you go, and how much you get done....

half Hood, foglights, headlights, mirrors, gas door, and rear hatch area... ran me about $330. Wanted to get the entire hood and full front done... but just too much money.

Dealer installed half hoods here are 399.00 by itself..... outrageous!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
:yeahthat:

i'm gonna use a new product i came across called Croftgate... it's a "green" waterless carwash polymer that really cleans the car and is especially good for black cars b/c it doesn't allow dust to stick to the car and it prevents fingerprints too... really amazing stuff you have to see it to believe it :cheer:
Do they have a US distributor, or do you just buy the Croftgate direct?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,332 Posts
Do they have a US distributor, or do you just buy the Croftgate direct?
well a guy near where i live just opened a Detail shop and only uses this product... he's the only licensed distributor in the US aside from the main guy Frank in North Carolina... there are a bunch of dealers set up across the country... not sure where exactly in Cali, but if you want i can find out how to get you some, just PM me...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
This is the first vehicle I've owned that will need more detailed care than I normally give and I'm a complete newbie at car care. Usually the Hyundai dealer does my Santa Fe when it gets work done or I go through the gas station automatic car wash when refueling.

When you live rurally on dusty roads this is gonna kill my black CR-Z. Will it make it through a touchless car wash? Being up high on a SUV is one thing, but this sits lower and hate to have the bottom scraped up if it's on a moving track.

Any do's and don'ts for a newbie?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
I tried out the Optimum(that's the company name) line. Poly-seal is amazing. Slickest stuff I've ever felt/seen. Also easiest to apply. Wipe on and walk away. It should hold up really well in socal. They have a super easy spray wax that you can put on top of the poly-seal, but I haven't used it yet.

On a brand new car you shouldn't need a cleaner (I'm assuming you mean a detailing cleaner, mild abrasive, swirl remover type thing). Maybe clay-bar it, if you want it perfect, then seal/wax it. I just used Meguiars clay bar kit from a local Target for that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I tried out the Optimum(that's the company name) line. Poly-seal is amazing. Slickest stuff I've ever felt/seen. Also easiest to apply. Wipe on and walk away. It should hold up really well in socal. They have a super easy spray wax that you can put on top of the poly-seal, but I haven't used it yet.

On a brand new car you shouldn't need a cleaner (I'm assuming you mean a detailing cleaner, mild abrasive, swirl remover type thing). Maybe clay-bar it, if you want it perfect, then seal/wax it. I just used Meguiars clay bar kit from a local Target for that.
well my gf got a 'new' 2010 altima and there are swirls so I just went ahead and got a meguiars complete car care kit.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,332 Posts
which products would you recommend for a new car? Im looking for a good cleaner and wax. do you think the waterless product is worth it? It seems so simple with no use of water. and how many times should we wax if we live in so cal. like once a year?
well the product IS waterless but of course if you have mud kicked up on the sides or something really thick, then you're gonna want to use the water hose to knock it off...

i totally think the waterless products are worth it... the product is made of the largest polymers on the market and will protect the car for well over a year... personally i'd do it every 3-6 months depending on how much you drive...

the "Multi-Clean" or clear stuff is great at removing bugs and unwanted stuff on the car...
"Aquanil-X" or pink stuff is used for the general cleaning of the car... spray on and it lifts the dirt to be wiped off by MICRO-FIBER TOWELS ONLY! (very important)
"Quick-n-Slick" or blue stuff is the wax... it's the one that adds that extra bit of shine and protection... again spray on and wipe off...
"Tire Shine" or white stuff is just what it says... but unlike traditional tire shines this one actually CLEANS TOO! so you can spray that on and wipe off... if you want a high-gloss on the tires, just spray it on and you're set... if you want the nice black look w/o that glossy shine, just spray on and wipe off lightly...

the great thing about these products is that they can all be used in DIRECT SUNLIGHT w/o affecting it's ability to do what it needs to do which is shine your ride :thumbup:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Just bought my black last night and detailed it today. I used Klasse on it but brother it was a real job and a hard to get it on "right". I don't know but maybe the Klasse was too old(?), seemed to leave too much residue. I've used Klasse for years on my daily drivers and it lasts a long time and is generally easy to apply so I like it.

As to your question I use a 3M 3000 grit rubbing compound (buy it at NAPA) if I get a scratch that is into the clear coat (deep enough to catch a finger nail). It does take the clear coat "down" some so you need to use it sparingly. It's expensive and used by autobody shops to take down orange peel. If it's just those little superficial marks, get rid of any towels with nylon in them and if you really want to have a perfect surface clay it and then use Zaino. Zaino is 100% optically pure so if you use enough coats it is literally perfect to the eye but a whole lotta work to get there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
693 Posts
If you are not experienced with a particular product, you are best to begin with the least abrasive product you can find that actually removes the scratch. I recommend first starting with a cleaner/wax. Such products have very little abrasive and some solvents that can remove anything on top of the paint. If that doesn't get it, then move on to a cleaner-wax prep product, if that doesn't do it, try a swirl mark remover and then a polishing compound and only last a rubbing compound. The key thing being to remove as little of the clear coat as possible to remove the scratch.
 
41 - 60 of 124 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top