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ITEM9's Build Thread: Rotrex Supercharged PWP EX 6MT

245K views 443 replies 107 participants last post by  BMW ALPINA 
#1 · (Edited)








Mission
To build a CR-Z that further embodies the spirit of what a “sport hybrid” is through a balance of modifications that positively impact both, fuel economy and sport performance, while maintaining an adequately low impact on the environment.

Current Modifications

Exterior
JDM PWP Splash Guards (Front Only)
JDM Power Folding Mirrors
JDM Auto Retract Mirror Accessory
JDM Reverse Tilt Side Mirror Accessory
JDM Fit RS Yellow Fog Lights
PIAA Yellow Fog Light Bulbs
HIR 9011 High Beams
Honda Ridgeline Horns
JDM (Insight) Tail Reflectors
Rear Wiper Delete (-2.67 lbs)
Debadged

Interior
Recaro SR-7 ASM Limited IS-11 Seats
Lecce Red Stitch D-Shape Steering Wheel
Redline Accessories Red Stitch Napa Leather Shift Boot
2012+ Civic Si Shift Knob
2012+ OEM Black Carpet
2012+ OEM Black Center Console
Base CR-Z Aluminum Trim Pieces & Black Door Handles
CVT Paddle Shifter Auto-Stop/Regen Switch
Acura TSX Homelink
Red OEM Footwell/Console LED Ambient Lighting
Honda All-Weather Floor Mats (+4.85 lbs)
Honda Cargo Tray (+2.00 lbs)
Valentine One + SAAVY + Blendmount

In-Car Entertainment
2010-2011 CR-V Navigation + JDM Reverse Camera
Gathers GS-5060DL Speakers

Under the Hood
Jackson Racing Rotrex Supercharger/Intercooler (+32.0 lbs)
HKS Metal Catalyzer
HKS LA Clutch (-3.85 lbs)
Wavetrac Limited Slip Differential
Spoon Stainless Clutch Hose
Spoon Throttle Body
Extrude Honed Intake Runners
Hondata FlashPro
2nd O2 Sensor Delete (-0.37 lbs)
Okada Projects Plasma Direct Coils
Denso IK22 Iridium Spark Plugs
RDX Injectors (410 cc/min @ 38 psi)
RDX MAP Sensor
ARK Cat-Back Exhaust (+9.34 lbs)
Buddy Club Short Shifter
Bypassed OEM Clutch Master Cylinder ("CDV" delete)

Suspension & Chassis
Spoon Struts + Spoon Progressive Springs (-1.34 lbs)
Spoon 25mm Front Stabilizer Bar (+5.46 lbs)
Spoon Front Rigid Collar Kit (+0.13 lbs)
Spoon Rear Rigid Collar Kit
Beatrush Pillowball Top Mounts
Beatrush Front Member Support Bar (+3.3 lbs)
Beatrush Front Performance Bar (+1.5 lbs)
Progress 19mm Rear Stabilizer Bar (+7.42 lbs)

Brakes
Spoon Monoblock Calipers (-5.94 lbs)
Mugen Active Gate RSX-S Front Rotors (+7.52 lbs)
Mugen High Performance Rear Rotors (+0.06 lbs)
Mugen Micro Mesh Stainless Steel Brake Lines
EBC Bluestuff Pads
Hard Brakes Titanium Brake Shims (+0.11 lbs)
Castrol Racing SRF React Brake Fluid
Front Dust Shield Delete (-1.02 lbs)

Wheel and Tire
Racing Hart Winning Gold CP-035 17x7.5 +50 (13.0 lbs)
Yokohama S-drive Tires (Front: 235/40R17 Rear: 205/45R17)
Motorsport Tech HC/WC Spacer Front: 3 mm Rear: 20 mm
CBRD Titanium Lug Nuts

Alternate Wheel Set
Racing Hart Winning Gold CP-035 Front: 17x7.5 +50 (13.0 lbs) Rear 16x7 +45 (11.8 lbs)
Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 Tires Front: 235/40R17 Rear: 205/55R16

Racing Hart Winning Gold CP-035 Front: 17x9 +63 (15.0 lbs) Rear 15x6.5 +45 (10.6 lbs)
Toyo R1R Tires Front: 245/35R17 Rear: 195/55R15

Future Modifications

Blue = Ordered
Red = Awaiting install...
Green = Work in Progress...

Under the Hood
GE8 "Spoon" High Cam Conversion
KMS Stage II Cylinder Head
CP 11.5:1 Pistons
Crower Rods
HKS 1.2 mm Gasket Kit
RDX Fuel Pressure Regulator
OEM CZ4A (Evo X) Fuel Pump
Spoon Baffled Oil Pan
Koyo Radiator

Suspension
Beatrush Rear Performance Bar
Eibach Camber Bolts

Past Modifications

2.25" Test Pipe (-3.41 lbs)
Hondata Map Sensor (4 Bar)
Spoon Sports Motor Rib (+7.23 lbs)
Rear Partition Delete (-18.75 lbs)
Spare Tire & Jack Tools Delete (-29.45 lbs)
2012 CR-Z Black Seats w/ Blue Stitching
Beatrush Aluminum Under Panel
 
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4
#2 ·
Mostly Stock with SSR Type-Cs

SSR Gunmetal Type-C 16x7.0 ET42 (12.1 lbs)
Yokohama db Super e-spec 195/55R16 (19.0 lbs)

I started a thread about these wheels earlier and you can check out some more pictures of them here:

http://www.crzforum.com/forum/wheels-tires-discussion/9365-my-ssr-type-cs-have-arrived.html

I took some more pictures with the center caps installed:











The wheels are machined to accept a snap-in retaining ring to hold the hub rings in place. Pretty nice…


Overall, I love these wheels. You can absolutely feel the difference in weight and I can’t recommend them enough. Not to mention they look really good on this car too…
 
#3 ·
GE8 Cylinder Head Assembly & Intake Runners

I came across a used Honda Fit (GE8) cylinder head assembly on eBay and contacted the seller about whether they came with the cams, rockers, valve, etc. or not. I ended up getting the cylinder head, GE8 cams, GE8 intake plenum, intake runners all for $650 shipped from MN to FL. I’m looking into extrude honing the head and runners, but I may try to port it myself by hand. I’m going to practice on another manifold first to see if I have the capacity to reach everything.

I took some pictures showing the exterior as well as some internal shots of both pieces that I’m going to extrude hone:

GE8 Cylinder Head





An Intake Port:


Kind of a cool shot...


The Integrated Header Exhaust Port:


Further inside…


To the side…


Intake Runners





A peek inside…


GE8 Intake Plenum



 
#5 ·
Alternate Wheel Set: Racing Hart CP-035

I came across these wheels used on eBay and remembered seeing them on the wheel weights list as one of the lightest wheels made. 13 lbs. for 17x7.5! They are discontinued and are pretty rare. I wanted to have another set of wheels so I can play with some wider, stickier tires. The fitment was perfect for the CR-Z, so I made an offer and he accepted! They looked pretty dirty in the pictures, but no curb rash or major damage. I got them safe and sound, and with a little elbow grease I was able to get them pretty clean. Two of the tires are 60% and the other two need to be replaced. I’ll probably replace all four and sell the two usable ones. I’ll probably sell my stock wheels now too...

Anyways here are the specs of the wheels and the tires I want to run:

Racing Hart Winning Gold CP-035 17x7.5 ET50 (13.0 lbs)
Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 215/45R17 (22.0 lbs)

And pictures:

















These pictures were with no spacers.
 
#6 ·
In your first thread about the ssr rims on the picture where you weighed them on the scale they were 11.9 not 12.1 just curious as to which is the correct number? Btw what is the weight of the stock 16' rims?

Nice car man your build is one of the ones I follow because you have the same idea as to what a "sport hybrid" should be
 
#10 ·
Red Vinyled Honda Emblems & Spoon Motor Rib

I vinyled my Honda emblems today and took some shots with the hood open to show the Spoon Motor Rib that I installed a few weeks back. You can also see the Spoon oil cap in the last shot as well.

The red vinyl isn't quite "Honda Red", but for the money it'll do for now. I'll figure out a better solution later...







 
#12 ·
I think you're thinking of a cylinder BLOCK for sleeving/boring. I have a cylinder HEAD; to which I want to extrude hone along with the intake runners.

Yeah, I like the Spoon Motor Rib a lot. Not sure how much it helped, but at least it looks tight! My only gripe is incompatibility with some SRIs. I'm going to try to see if I can get it to work with the Takeda intake with a little trimming to the filter housing.

Thanks for compliments!
 
#16 ·
Black Seats, Black Center Console and Base Model Trim Pieces

I've kinda been neglecting my build thread for awhile. I've been doing mods and taking pics, but I never got around to posting them or it was just better suited as a DIY. Anyways, here is my favorite mod that "really ties the room together."

I love the OEM Honda Black seats with the blue stitching. While I don't mind the gray seats, I feel that black seats would show less dirt plus I think the blue stitching is a really sharp look. To get black seats for a reasonable price I would have to get them used either from someone replacing theirs or from a wreck. I figuring the chances of that happening locally or at all, given the rarity of black seats, are pretty slim. I decided to just reupholster my own.

I bought the fabric from Honda for about $800 or so. I have the service manual, which details how to do this, so I just went at it. I also added the BASE model trim pieces at the same time. Here's the pics:


Taking the seats apart...


Removing the fabric from the cushion.


These are the upholstery rings or "hog rings" that need to be removed in order for the upholstery to come off.


I used a pair of pliers to pull them apart. This is the hard way to do it. Hog ring cutters would have made this job so much easier.


Instead of hog rings, I secured the upholstery with zip-ties. These are much easier to remove without specialized tools plus I already had them.


It is a little tricky to get the zip ties to make the bend without poking into the foam. I used a trim tool to guide them under the rod.


Seats installed in the car.


Another shot of the seats. Also seen are the BASE model trim pieces: the Alumium finish pieces around the front cupholders and the black door handles. I always felt that the EX gunmetal trim peices were a little out of place...


Another shot of the seats with some sunlight to highlight the blue stitching.


Close up of the BASE model trim pieces on the black center console.



Black Seats Parts List

04815-SZT-G00ZB - (1) Driver Seatback
81531-SZT-G01ZB - (1) Driver Cushion
81140-SZT-G01ZB - (2) Headrest
04811-SZT-A00ZB - (1) Pass Seatback
81131-SZT-A01ZB - (1) Pass Cushion
81118-SJD-J01 - (2) Clips
 
#25 ·
I've kinda been neglecting my build thread for awhile. I've been doing mods and taking pics, but I never got around to posting them or it was just better suited as a DIY. Anyways, here is my favorite mod that "really ties the room together."

I love the OEM Honda Black seats with the blue stitching. While I don't mind the gray seats, I feel that black seats would show less dirt plus I think the blue stitching is a really sharp look. To get black seats for a reasonable price I would have to get them used either from someone replacing theirs or from a wreck. I figuring the chances of that happening locally or at all, given the rarity of black seats, are pretty slim. I decided to just reupholster my own.

I bought the fabric from Honda for about $800 or so. I have the service manual, which details how to do this, so I just went at it. I also added the BASE model trim pieces at the same time.
You're a brave man for doing that yo your seats. Awesome post, your interior looks boss.
 
#18 ·
Spoon Suspension

I installed Spoon springs and struts awhile back and I'm finally posting some pics. Here they are:


Spoon boxes make me happy...


All unboxed. The FSB still has yet to be installed...


Ready to go on the car. The rear sway bar is the Basis V1 which rubbed; came off after two days. No thanks...


Car on the lift.


Knuckle supported by my floor jack. I don't want the drive shafts coming out...


Comparing the Spoon strut with the OEM strut.


Shot of the rear spring and shock.


Other side shown with the ARK exhaust.


A day or so after lowering.
 
#21 ·
Spoon Caliper Teaser...

I have complete brake system going on the car soon. Spoon Monoblock Calipers, EBC Yellowstuff pads, titanium shims, Mugen Active Gate RSX-S front rotors and Mugen rear rotors. All I'm waiting on are 3mm spacers to get here, since none of the wheels I have will clear the calipers once I get them on. Soon...

Some teaser pics of the calipers:


More Spoon boxes!


Even though I bought the Spoon rotors, which are the two top boxes, I decided to go with the Mugen rotors instead. The Spoon rotors will be up for sale soon...


Such an incredible blue color. I hope it never fades away...
 
#29 ·
I got them from Majestic Honda, but recently I've been ordering from curryacuraparts.com because with the free shipping everything usually comes out to be cheaper from them.

83530-SZT-G01ZA - Black Passenger Door Grip
83580-SZT-G01ZA - Black Driver Door Grip
77245-SZT-G11ZA - Aluminum Finish Upper Center Trim
77277-SZT-G11ZA - Aluminum Finish Right Center Trim
77278-SZT-G11ZA - Aluminum Finish Left Center Trim
 
#30 ·
Spoon Monoblock Calipers & Mugen Active Gate Rotors

I installed Spoon monoblock calipers up front and Mugen rotors front & back over the weekend. I'm using EBC Yellowstuff pads front & back with Hard-Brakes.com titanium shims in the front. The front rotors are Mugen RSX-S Active Gate Rotors which have a unique design to them for improved cooling. I used Castrol SRF racing brake fluid which has impressive stats compared to next best brake fluid. Here are some pics:


On the lift again...


Last picture with these calipers...


The rotor screws strip easily with the impact screw driver and hammer method. Using the bits with my 3/8" impact gun worked way better. I had to drill out the ones that stripped; there's enough thread exposed to get needle nose vise grips to get the rest of the bolt out.


New rotors on and test fitting the new calipers. You can see the stock one just chillin' out on the jack stand behind the rotor before I commit to disconnecting the brake lines.


Another shot without flash.


The EBC Yellowstuff pads with titanium shims. The titanium shims act as a heat shield for the calipers to reduce brake fade. The brake pads need a tiny bit of material trimed off so they are flat enough to work in the calipers, as well as the shims; Dremel took care of that. Also some tabs on the shim need to be trimmed off to work in the spoon calipers. I bent the remaining ones using a torch and a hammer.


Pads and shims in the calipers...


On the car...


Back on the ground. I didn't have a second person to do a proper brake bleed so I did what I could with my crappy hand pump brake bleeder that I bought forever ago. I felt air in there still but it was good enough for a test around the block.




I needed a spacer for my Racing Harts clear the calipers. I actually got some custom hub-centric wheel-centric ones made. They are 3mm. The 16x7 +42 Type-Cs that I have need much more spacing; something around 8mm to clear. I'm looking into a 17x8 for the front to resolve that issue.


Here you can see what makes the Mugen rotors different from other rotors. The rotor hub is larger and has holes along the perimeter for ventilation. The rotor vanes ventilate from the front of the rotor instead of the rear as most rotors do. They also weigh a little less than other 300mm rotors; only about a pound though.


Closer up.


Rear Mugen rotors with EBC pads. Nothing really special about the rotors, other than being slotted.


Yellow Spoon damper in the background...


The EBC pads have a special bed-in compound on them that require an unusual bed-in process of driving the car normally for a few hundred miles avoiding hard stops and THEN doing the bed-in. After bleeding them today with a friend, they felt really solid even without doing any hard stopping. They require much less brake pedal travel now to get normal braking; I can only imagine what happens when I stomp on them...
 
#31 ·
Nice!! They will come in handy when your supercharger is in you car :). I'm
Also interested how you will tackle putting an air box, I agree that cool air is the key but don't you think you might need more air?

I only say this because on my civic when I was supercharged I had my stock air box when I was 6psi. But once I moved to 8psi I had to get a cone filter for more air. The crz boost about 8-8.5lbs
 
#32 ·
I still want to use a cone filter, but I envisioned partitioning off the battery area to keep it separate from the rest of the engine compartment. Something made of aluminum sheet will a bend or two; nothing fancy. I also thought about a little "scoop" that will feed air coming in from the stock air inlet location.

For the battery I was thinking about a small battery positioned longitudinally, mounted on top of the transmission using the two stock air box mounting points, between the engine and the intercooler pipe going to the throttle body. I'll fab up a battery tray from aluminum and use a AGM deep cycle battery, which I think are better suited for vibrations and such. I was thinking about using an Odyssey Extreme Racing battery; an ER15 possibly.
 
#34 ·
Spoon FSB and Spoon Rigid Collar install

So I finally got around to installing my Spoon FSB. Since it involved dropping the sub-frame, I was dreading this install for awhile and even thought about paying someone to do it, even though I probably had the tools for it. I was feeling good after the caliper install, so I just went for it. I snapped a few pics along the way:


Pillow case over the Spoon calipers to keep them safe in case I knock a sway bar into them...


Engine supported by jack stand with sub-frame supported with my crappy transmission jack.


Closer view of my rig before I remove the sub-frame bolts and drop the sub-frame down a little bit.


The stock sway bay removed and compared to the Spoon one.


Spoon FSB on the car shown with the rigid collars.


So I assumed that the Spoon label on the FSB was supposed to be right side up, so I actually installed it upside down the first time. Putting it in upside down and taking it back out was by far the longest part of the install...

I wish I took some pics when I had the subframe dropped, but I forgot to. I'll probably never get a chance to either because that bar is going to stay in the car whether I eventually sell the car or not. Too much of a pain to put it back to stock...

Anyways, so far I like the bar a lot. NOW it feels like a go kart. I'm running a reverse stagger setup with 235 tires up front and 205 tires in the rear. I'm also running a 19mm Progress bar in the rear, so with the reverse stagger the car feels pretty close to neutral. Once, I get more time in with some turns, I'll figure out how I like the balance of the car.

Also, as you can see in the last pic when the car is off the ground, the FSB touches the lower control arm slightly. When the car is back on the ground, the FSB has about 10mm of clearance.
 
#35 ·
Anyways, so far I like the bar a lot. NOW it feels like a go kart. I'm running a reverse stagger setup with 235 tires up front and 205 tires in the rear. I'm also running a 19mm Progress bar in the rear, so with the reverse stagger the car feels pretty close to neutral. Once, I get more time in with some turns, I'll figure out how I like the balance of the car.
You're running 235s in the front with the Spoon coilovers with a ~1" drop? From looking at the fitment thread, that looked like a marginal setup. Any rubbing? What offset are you using (the Racing Harts with +50?). What tire size?

I am running 205/45 Advan Neovas and was thinking of going to something wider (in a similar tire) for more grip. There are 215s but nothing in 225 and I wasn't sure the 235s would fit.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for the response on the 235s. I'll have to look into it for next season.

By the way, the Advan Neovas are sweet. They are just as good as the Star Specs on the track and on the street. I've had them on since May and they will be done by the last AutoX in Nov but that's all I wanted. Great summer tires!:)
 
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