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In need of some insight on an AC problem.

674 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  tikeybun
3
EDIT: The coil was bad. replacing the clutch kit for $50 fixed my issue. Don't forget to break in your A/C clutch if you do a full replacement like I did! HERE IS THE KIT I PURCHASED AND AM USING

Hello, this is my first post so apologies if I posted this in the incorrect place or do anything else generally incorrectly :)

I just recently purchased a 2011 Honda Cr-z EX and am having some AC Problems! Before you ask, yes, I have looked through this post. Not throughout the entire post but you get the point. Essentially, my AC Compressor clutch will not engage no matter what I have tried. I have checked the relevant fuses, relays, continuity for all cables, hell I have even taken off the clutch to check which shims are inside (1 of the 0.4mm). The clutch gap appeared to be within spec although I cannot be 100% certain on that due to only having a caliper which was enough to help me eye the width.

I have followed the steps in the service manual as best as I could to try and diagnose exactly what may be causing the problem now and here's where I am stuck:
Font Parallel Engineering Auto part Drawing

Upon attempting to follow the instructions here, my multimeter shows no change as if I were just holding both contacts in the air. I have it set to resistance, with the red contact touching the metal of 'A' and the black contact touching either the ground screw, the crimped metal on the green wire and just about everywhere else that I can think to be relevant to it. During all of my attempts, the multimeter has only shown me 'OL.' with no changes whatsoever.

I suppose my question is: Does this mean the field coil is bad? I'm unsure just because I figure that if it was bad, it would show a resistance out of the range but I'm stuck wondering if that's really what's going on...

Any help is much appreciated!

Some additional info:
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Engineering
Head Hand Arm Shoulder Leg


The compressor clutch did not click. I am able to push the rod(?) into the compressor when I remove the clutch plate.
The screw on the second image above is nearly stripped (my fault). I tried to remove it to guarantee a proper metal contact with the green wire but I gave up once my screwdriver started slipping.
After I removed the belt on the compressor to try and spin the pulley and it spins freely but with a bit of noise. It sounds like something may be loose?
If I spin the clutch by hand while it is installed onto the compressor, I can hear the compressor pushing liquid(?) around inside.
Running the AC test shows no results.
The condenser fan does not spin - I assume since the condenser is not in function.
I am inexperienced in this field so I wouldn't be surprised if its something I missed or did wrong.
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Could have popped the thermal fuse that is potted in the clutch coil.

Might be able to find a clutch coil and just replace the coil. Would give you a chance to also inspect the bearing on the pulley that might be the source of your noise.
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Could have popped the thermal fuse that is potted in the clutch coil.

Might be able to find a clutch coil and just replace the coil. Would give you a chance to also inspect the bearing on the pulley that might be the source of your noise.
Great, thanks! I figured based off of what has been going on so far that it most likely was the coil but I was unsure. If all else fails then I have to replace the whole damn compressor so I suppose I was just looking for confirmation before I waste $600 lol
Some have also replaced only the clutch. See this related thread and the mentioned prices for compressors, none were $600. Yet another A/C problem post! 😖

If the clutch will not engage, could it be a spacing issue, as has been discussed before? The solution to that as has been discussed many times is to remove the shims, if you have done that, and it still does not engage it could be the clutch or that coil. Replacing the whole compressor will replace both, but it would be nice to know which part actually failed and might be more cost-effective to only replace the failed part.
Some have also replaced only the clutch. See this related thread and the mentioned prices for compressors, none were $600. Yet another A/C problem post! 😖

If the clutch will not engage, could it be a spacing issue, as has been discussed before? The solution to that as has been discussed many times is to remove the shims, if you have done that, and it still does not engage it could be the clutch or that coil. Replacing the whole compressor will replace both, but it would be nice to know which part actually failed and might be more cost-effective to only replace the failed part.
Thanks for the reply,
I do think it would be worth removing the extra shim as you said just to see what happens, as it wouldn't hurt to try. My clutch gap seems to vary from 0.4mm-0.68mm or so if I recall correctly so I would have to go out and get some extra shims since the one being currently used is a 0.4mm. When I bridged the connectors in the relay box I did not hear anything whether I had the clutch piece on or off.
I suppose my question is would anything happen at all if my field coil was functional and I bridge the connectors if I have the clutch assembly removed from the bolt? Just for testing purposes.
TBH I do not know, all I do know is from other related threads and many have removed all shims, and it resolved many of the issues. Others have replaced the clutch. Many repair places will only replace the whole compressor, as it is easier for them to do so. Do you have access to the FSM? See what steps are needed to troubleshoot the coil.

or

Thanks for the reply,
I do think it would be worth removing the extra shim as you said just to see what happens, as it wouldn't hurt to try. My clutch gap seems to vary from 0.4mm-0.68mm or so if I recall correctly so I would have to go out and get some extra shims since the one being currently used is a 0.4mm. When I bridged the connectors in the relay box I did not hear anything whether I had the clutch piece on or off.
I suppose my question is would anything happen at all if my field coil was functional and I bridge the connectors if I have the clutch assembly removed from the bolt? Just for testing purposes.
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I agree with what everyone else says. There are a series of shims on the AC clutch that space it the proper distance from the compressor pulley. If the spacing is too close then the compressor is on all the time. If the spacing is too far apart then the compressor will never engage when commanded. If the AC clutch shim is out of spec then you can add or remove some shims to bring it back into spec.
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