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Hi guys, I'm Andrea from Rome, Italy. I have a 2011 CR-Z Sport, all original at the moment. I just love this car.

I would like to increase the performance in order to get 10 or 20 HP extra. I'm wondering if it is possible and which would be the best way. I use the car daily and I would like to avoid big changes.

My first thought was to modify the re-mapping ECU parameters or change it with another one, but I don't know if it would be the right way.

Please help, thank you.
 

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If you want to keep it close to stock then you could upgrade to a ge8 intake plenum. Hks or fujitsubo exhaust are fairly quiet and then flashpro for a remap.
Honda squeezed 10 hp from them with a remap for the facelift model so it is reasonable that some bolt ons could give another 10 to make up you 20hp goal.

I would say however, peak hp gains isn't going to change the experience much, try select mods that fix the dip in the midrange.

The ge8 plenum is a good start.
You can delete the second cat. That seems to be a contentious issue here but the false equivalency of remove half your cat double your emissions is just that, false.

Care have gone through emissions tests in the UK for thr annual MOT and passed with no second cat (hybrids should not be tested but some members of the fb page have had testers not realise the z is a hybrid and test amyways)

The second cat is their to meet start up emissions only while the primary cat gets up to temp.

I will be deleting mine next month so I will post my experience then. I already have the ge8 plenum and it makes a noticeable difference mid range.

Second cat delete supposedly increases torque in the 3-4k rpm range where the stock z has a nasty dip
 

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Andrea,

What supposed problem are you trying to solve with the car? If there was more power available then Honda would have put more power in but at what cost? There is no free lunch. What will a "tune" cost and what will you give up? Want more power buy a type R Civic and pay a lot more. Everything is a trade off. The car was built to be reliable and to be an economy car.

I have read over the years so many postings about people wanting more power out of this car. It comes down to how much are you willing to spend for a small amount of power increase? Most members go the forced induction route but then you add weight , complexity,expense and a need for higher octane fuel. Lots of people add intakes and change the heads , change the cam and remove parts of the exhaust, all in the pursuit of more power. In the end look at what you want to do and how much it would cost and then go compare all of that to other cars you could buy. You may find that it makes more sense to just get a different vehicle. Or just accept the CR-Z for what it is which is a low production, niche, economic, sporty, light hybrid.

If you want the car to handle better put better tires and brakes on it. Another option is a Limited Slip Differential which will allow you to put more of the power the car has to the ground. Again what do you really want to change and why?

Even if you added 20 HP more you will probably not notice it other than the lower MPG.

Hi guys, I'm Andrea from Rome, Italy. I have a 2011 CR-Z Sport, all original at the moment. I just love this car.

I would like to increase the performance in order to get 10 or 20 HP extra. I'm wondering if it is possible and which would be the best way. I use the car daily and I would like to avoid big changes.

My first thought was to modify the re-mapping ECU parameters or change it with another one, but I don't know if it would be the right way.

Please help, thank you.
 

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Hi guys, I'm Andrea from Rome, Italy. I have a 2011 CR-Z Sport, all original at the moment. I just love this car.

I would like to increase the performance in order to get 10 or 20 HP extra. I'm wondering if it is possible and which would be the best way. I use the car daily and I would like to avoid big changes.

My first thought was to modify the re-mapping ECU parameters or change it with another one, but I don't know if it would be the right way.

Please help, thank you.
Mugen, Takeda or K&N Typhoon intake swap +
GE8 Fit/Jazz intake plenum +
Kamispeed second cat delete = apx 10+ overall horsepower and torque gain AND +4ish miles per gallon improvement(at least in my case, your mileage may vary). No remapping needed.
 

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So what did it cost you for 4 MPG and supposedly 10 HP added and do you see or feel any difference? Don't most of those intakes increase the air temperature of the incoming air? Looking for a cost benefit analysis not a feeling actual emotionless facts. But as with anything it is your car , your money and your wants.

Mugen, Takeda or K&N Typhoon intake swap +
GE8 Fit/Jazz intake plenum +
Kamispeed second cat delete = apx 10+ overall horsepower and torque gain AND +4ish miles per gallon improvement(at least in my case, your mileage may vary). No remapping needed.
 

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So what did it cost you for 4 MPG and supposedly 10 HP added and do you see or feel any difference? Don't most of those intakes increase the air temperature of the incoming air? Looking for a cost benefit analysis not a feeling actual emotionless facts. But as with anything it is your car , your money and your wants.
You need to forget about the peak hp numbers. A ten hp peak gain doesn't sound like much especially considering the cost but the area under the curve is where all of these gains make the car 'feel' better and quicker.

Peak hp won't ever increase much on an engine like ours because the power is in the head, i.e. The cam will be the most limiting factor.

The exhaust mods reduce back pressure and pumping losses that rob the engine of power, pumping losses also reduced by less restrictive intakes.

Gale Banks describes the four stroke cycle like a bank account, your power strokes are the only deposits, all the other strokes are taking money (torque) from the account.

If you can minimise the withdrawal through better intake/exhaust and tuning you can make more torque for the same/similar amount of fuel.

HP is just a function of torque and rpm so increase torque and it isn't increased up top it is everywhere. Peak gains as such are meaningless.

It's the mid rpm range where these mods are really worth it.

You can see it in the dyno traces for individual and collective mods.
 

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Hi guys, I'm Andrea from Rome, Italy. I have a 2011 CR-Z Sport, all original at the moment. I just love this car.

I would like to increase the performance in order to get 10 or 20 HP extra. I'm wondering if it is possible and which would be the best way. I use the car daily and I would like to avoid big changes.

My first thought was to modify the re-mapping ECU parameters or change it with another one, but I don't know if it would be the right way.

Please help, thank you.
Even 10hp is going to be a stretch with intake/exhaust/tune. My '11 added around 7hp through a good chunk of the rev range with a Mugen intake and cat-back exhaust, and a custom professional hondata tune. Beyond that you are looking at messing with emissions equipment, changing out the cam, or forced induction.

Honda squeezed 10 hp from them with a remap for the facelift model so it is reasonable that some bolt ons could give another 10 to make up you 20hp goal.
Extra power was from the electric side, not the engine.
 

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What would you want to tune in naturally aspirated engine? You can't control air pressure with tune, because it's controlled by the atmosphere. The amount of fuel that's injected depends on that pressure. You can set higher rev limiter, but the torque already drops a lot in this upper range because of all these restrictions, like intake, exthaust, valves.

There are ways of increasing power in naturally aspirated engine, but they might require rebuilding the engine for any serious gains. You can:
  • change intake
  • change exhaust
  • change cam shaft (so the engine can such more air)
  • change valve springs (not sure if it's neccessary in CRZ, but might be needed for higher rev limit)
  • increase compression (replace pistons to these with higher compression, probably also forged piston rods), this will also require higher octane fuel to avoid knock
  • increase engine volume (higher lift crankshaft, bore size if possible, beefier head gasket)
  • probably add oil cooler and increase the size of a radiator if you want to actually use this higher rev limiter
These are pretty significant modifications and really far from stock. On top of that, they are more expensive than forced induction. Really, forced induction is probably the cheapest (horses per euro) way to increase power. Once you add some kind of forced induction, you can control the intake pressure. If you can control the pressure, you can add more air and more fuel. Adding a supercharger is really easy compared to turbo, you don't need to modify exhaust and you can pretty much revert it back to stock at any time, just remove the belt from the pulley, unscrew the supercharger and intercooler and install back the stock air box. Ofc you can still go for the modifications above after getting a supercharger, especially with exhaust and cam shaft you can expect some gains, but at some point the stock piston rods might not be able to handle it. From what I red, the stock components can handle up to around 190, maybe 200 hp if lucky.
 

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So what did it cost you for 4 MPG and supposedly 10 HP added and do you see or feel any difference? Don't most of those intakes increase the air temperature of the incoming air? Looking for a cost benefit analysis not a feeling actual emotionless facts. But as with anything it is your car , your money and your wants.
3 purchases/4 payments spread out over 2 years. Cost? I got a good deal on the K&N through Autozone taking advantage of the military discount they offer and spent a couple quality hours installing it with my Son. Also, I will likely not have to purchase a replacement filter for as long as I own the car. I paid the same as everyone else that purchased the Kamispeed pipe when they offered the group buy. That was quality time as well doing the install with my Father-in-law. And the Fit manifold cost me $70, shipping included, off Ebay. That was a good "on my own" learning experience. With the help of the DIY on this very forum, and adding my own write-up of my experience. Those experiences alone made whatever money I paid worthwhile, and that, to me at least, is a tangible benefit. I see the difference under the hood, looking at the mpg display and by paying less at the pump. While everyone's mileage will most likely vary, for me That Also is a tangible benefit that will compound the longer I own the car. I hear and feel the difference around 3,000 to 5,000 rpm while accelerating, because it's happening louder, growlier, and somewhat quicker than before the mods. No, I haven't bothered to do a timed run. The car also now has an easier time maintaining speeds of 55-75 mph, even in econ mode. Higher Air temp? Dunno, my guess is it's marginal as far as the car is concerned. Internal Engine temp is in the thousands, so an additional 10 or even 100 degrees Fahrenheit for air is relatively insignificant. And no, I'm not curious enough to do any actual comparison readings.
 

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Andrea,

What supposed problem are you trying to solve with the car? If there was more power available then Honda would have put more power in but at what cost? There is no free lunch. What will a "tune" cost and what will you give up? Want more power buy a type R Civic and pay a lot more. Everything is a trade off. The car was built to be reliable and to be an economy car.

I have read over the years so many postings about people wanting more power out of this car. It comes down to how much are you willing to spend for a small amount of power increase? Most members go the forced induction route but then you add weight and complexity and expense. Lots of people add intakes and change the heads and remove parts of the exhaust, all in the pursuit of more power. In the end look at what you want to do and how much it would cost and then go compare all of that to other cars you could buy. You may find that it makes more sense to just get a different vehicle. Or just accept the CR-Z for what it is which is a low production, niche, economic, sporty, light hybrid.

If you want the car to handle better put better tires and brakes on it. Another option is a Limited Slip Differential which will allow you to put more of the power the car has to the ground. Again what do you really want to change and why?

Even if you added 20 HP more you will probably not notice it other than the lower MPG.
I don't agree at all. Remember that the motor manufacturers never tune for max possible output - they can't because the emissions regulations make it impossible.
Therefore, you certainly can improve the performance IF you are willing to accept a change in the emissions.

Here in the UK, our emissions testing is pretty minimal compared to some countries so engine tuning is big business, whereas in Germany, for example, all parts fitted to a vehicle must be TUV approved. This means tuning must not change the emissions and tuning products must be tested by the TUV organisation. No wonder then that the UK is a major market for German tuning companies because TUV approval isn't required.

The biggest factor in tuning a normally aspirated engine is the high cost per bhp gained. I am in no doubt that the various mods - intake, exhaust, decat, maybe even induction kits will have some effect, but maybe they'll mainly alter the torque curve which will feel like a 'result'.

Any mods really require the ecu to be reprogrammed. As we know, Honda managed to extract an extra 10bhp for the facelifted models so there is probably more to be had especially with the other mods. But finding a tuning company who can effectively reprogram the ecu is a big problem - there are so few left.
 

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Not only, engine output was increased as well by about 5bhp (from 114 to 119, + IMA from 10 to 15hp) and battery was changed from NiMh to L-ion.
 

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So if you have a "Pre facelift" car to get after "facelift" performance it is not easy or even possible. They are two different cars in a practical sense. Honda got more by changing many items as you state in your quoted posts below.

I still say in my opinion the car is fine as it is and to make some of the changes suggested in this thread I do not think they give enough "benefit" to justify the costs or potential reduction in reliability or the need for Premium fuel.

But all of us are individuals and they are our cars and we can decide what we want to do based on our wants, skills and budget.

"FARMERGILES, post: 1394497, member: 76372" As we know, Honda managed to extract an extra 10bhp for the facelifted models so there is probably more to be had especially with the other mods.
...by increasing the battery voltage from 104V to 144V.
Not only, engine output was increased as well by about 5bhp (from 114 to 119, + IMA from 10 to 15hp) and battery was changed from NiMh to L-ion.
 

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Yes, I agree that any increase in performance is neither easy nor cheap regardless of which model you have,

I'm happy with the performance of my facelift model and with some Dipetane* in the fuel, in 'normal' its almost as responsive as in 'sport', which is fantastic (at least up to about 75mph!) Normally average close to 50mpg.

* available from Amazon, and made in Ireland. It's very unusual stuff (for a fuel additive) - crystal clear, gloopy, with almost no smell and can be used in diesel or gasoline engines. I suspect its glycerol, a byproduct of biodiesel production but it does what is claimed. Even my 1999 VW T4 2.5tdi camper van was more responsive and quieter. Adds about £1.50 to a fill-up (1:200)
 

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... Honda squeezed 10 hp from them with a remap for the facelift model so it is reasonable that some bolt ons could give another 10 to make up you 20hp goal.
AFAIK, the extra HP in the facelift model comes from upgraded IMA motor and battery. They went from Ni-MH batteries to Lithium batteries and increased IMA power from 10 to 15kW.
 
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Poor Andrea. She only wanted a few more horses. Now she will have sleepless night (mares)
 
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