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For me, @AZ-CRZ, an IMA light means setting up an appointment for diagnosis. Does your year and mileage make it past warranty? Is it still charging and assisting, or is the only "symptom" that the idiot light comes on?
Never owned a hybrid before, but I feel like taking a car into a dealership and saying "Light comes on once every 4 months. Don't turn car off or it wont appear for another 4" is a fools errand.

To answer your question, the only symptom is the light. I've goosed it, and received full boost/assist with the light on. I've cruised up the speed and downshifted my way to full regen as well. There are no symptoms other than the sheer terror of the infamous orange light failing to disappear on startup.

Are you suggesting I take it in anyways? I see how my stance would be seen as downright irresponsible. I realize this now, because this morning the light popped on again. 2 days straight is strange, and it always seems to pop after the car has sat overnight.

Allow me to ask for help, then:

How do I present this issue to a Honda Tech when I take it in? Do I request they do a diagnostic of the battery? or a tune-up? Or do I make it clear that there is an electrical gremlin I want them to chase for $110 an hour?
 

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Do you know anyone with any device that can read codes? you may be able to extract the code and let the dealer know that. Do not clear the code as you want code present when car is in dealership. Good Luck.
Never owned a hybrid before, but I feel like taking a car into a dealership and saying "Light comes on once every 4 months. Don't turn car off or it wont appear for another 4" is a fools errand.

To answer your question, the only symptom is the light. I've goosed it, and received full boost/assist with the light on. I've cruised up the speed and downshifted my way to full regen as well. There are no symptoms other than the sheer terror of the infamous orange light failing to disappear on startup.

Are you suggesting I take it in anyways? I see how my stance would be seen as downright irresponsible. I realize this now, because this morning the light popped on again. 2 days straight is strange, and it always seems to pop after the car has sat overnight.

Allow me to ask for help, then:

How do I present this issue to a Honda Tech when I take it in? Do I request they do a diagnostic of the battery? or a tune-up? Or do I make it clear that there is an electrical gremlin I want them to chase for $110 an hour?
 

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Never owned a hybrid before, but I feel like taking a car into a dealership and saying "Light comes on once every 4 months. Don't turn car off or it wont appear for another 4" is a fools errand.

To answer your question, the only symptom is the light. I've goosed it, and received full boost/assist with the light on. I've cruised up the speed and downshifted my way to full regen as well. There are no symptoms other than the sheer terror of the infamous orange light failing to disappear on startup.

Are you suggesting I take it in anyways? I see how my stance would be seen as downright irresponsible. I realize this now, because this morning the light popped on again. 2 days straight is strange, and it always seems to pop after the car has sat overnight.

Allow me to ask for help, then:

How do I present this issue to a Honda Tech when I take it in? Do I request they do a diagnostic of the battery? or a tune-up? Or do I make it clear that there is an electrical gremlin I want them to chase for $110 an hour?
Oh, I agree--no urgent need to take it in if there's nothing else acting up, except the idiot light coming on with no other symptoms (but it could be something that will eventually cause another component to fail--your choice.0 The only times mine came on (on the Insight,) there was actually NO ASSIST left, and something was needing attention. I'd take it in if it starts coming on regularly, but once every four months is not enough for me to address it unless it becomes every week, and that's only because I figure on intermittent idiot lights coming on--they'll give you your keys back, take your $110, and say "nope, couldn't find any problems....bring it back if it happens again!" But then, you at least have a history trail, if the "problem" started while you were still under warranty, but actually caused a failure AFTER the warranty expires.
 

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Yeah, I'm of the same mind. My sense of urgency will scale with the frequency of that IMA light appearing.

Thanks Litz, and SpeedBump. Talking it out put me at ease a bit, and also solidified a gameplan. I'll look at getting a code-reading device so I can catch and read these codes myself.
 

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Yeah, I'm of the same mind. My sense of urgency will scale with the frequency of that IMA light appearing.

Thanks Litz, and SpeedBump. Talking it out put me at ease a bit, and also solidified a gameplan. I'll look at getting a code-reading device so I can catch and read these codes myself.
The code readers have come down in price a lot. I have a Scan Gauge II https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-ii/ which also provides other functions and lives in the car. I hope what ever it is doesn't cost much to make right.
 

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nope!

although as i said earlier, i think the problem was a dodgy connection somewhere which, in my troubleshooting testing of resistances here and continuity there, i unplugged and re - seated, making a good connection again, and the car takes a few commutes to work and back ("drive cycles") of not detecting a problem before it turns the light off.

light's been off for 2 years and 40,000 miles in any case :laugh:

side note - its always vaguely annoying when people just tell you to take it to a dealer for any little thing!
 

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Cars stopped having "any little things" about 1995, when the OBD systems were coming out. I know, they weren't mandated until '96, but some makers started early because of model re-designs.

Even having a code reader and a troubleshooting flowchart isn't always enough for home mechanics.
 

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Cars stopped having "any little things" about 1995, when the OBD systems were coming out. I know, they weren't mandated until '96, but some makers started early because of model re-designs.

Even having a code reader and a troubleshooting flowchart isn't always enough for home mechanics.
i disagree entirely. my car needed no parts, and i'm not even sure i actually did anything to put it right! you are almost always better off trying to fix a problem yourself first, or at least try and diagnose it. i appreciate that some people dont have to tools, knowledge, or even space to work on their car, but looking up fault code or buying an OBDII bluetooth dongle and connecting to your phone are small steps that can at the very least prevent you being told that the problem is your headlight fluid has run out and you need the diamond version at £500 a pint.

if i had taken this car to a dealer i can easily imagine being told i needed a new IMA battery / circuitry. what do those run for? £1500? £2000? and it would have been a total, unneccesary waste of a months wages! my way cost me an hour of poking about at home.
 

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I run a dongle and Torque. When getting an OBD sender for the Honda, spend at least thirty bucks. The five-dollar ones apparently have pirated chips (go figure) which will flummox something in the Honda circuitry.

If your repair shop tries pulling crap on you, you're at the wrong shop.
 

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Hi everyone I am from the UK and new here. I was wondering if anyone can help as I have not seen any discussions about the problems I'm experiencing with my IMA battery.

The IMA light has been coming on very occasionally on my 2011 CRZ for the past year but the battery is still charging and assisting. When I got it serviced last September Honda checked it and said it was ok so I carried on as normal and didn't really get the light come on again till around April this year. Then last week I was on a 5 hour drive, about half hour into the drive the IMA light comes on but I carry on as usual. I stop off for 10 mins then get back on the road to find the IMA light comes on again but this time only after a couple of mins. 2 hours into my drive the 12v battery light came on and off, on and off for about an hour and then eventually all the power to the car failed, headlights, power steering, the lot.

I took it to the dealership and they could not get the 12v battery to charge and replaced that. They then hooked it up to their computer and no error codes came up so thought all was well until the next day when I went out the IMA light came on after 10 mins of driving then 5 mins later the battery light came on. I was actually on the way to the dealership to look at part exing it for something else, they hooked it up to the computer but still no error code so they need to contact Honda to find out why. When I left the dealership that day no lights came on so very strange.

Has this happened to anyone else? Could it be the fan? Is the fan inside the sealed battery unit? Please can anyone help?

Many thanks
 

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The two IMA issues that have been reported here in order of frequency is usually the IPU Fan and some have had DC to DC converter fail. I think one member had both fail. I find it odd that the dealer checked for codes when the IMA light was on and found none, that light has to trigger a code. Can you either talk to the service manager there or take it to a different Honda dealer who is maybe more familiar with CR-Zs? If that IMA light is on and it is the only light that is on then obviously it has an IMA issue. If you had a whole bunch of lights(ABS, Stability control and others) I would have pointed to the under hood battery but you already had that replaced. Dealer should have codes and a diagnosis or at least know what part needs to be tested/replaced.
 

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Hi thanks for your reply.

The light goes off when the car is started again but could come on at any time. I will try and speak to the service manager on Monday and take it from there. Thanks again
 

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Intermittent warning lights can drive a repair shop nuts but modern cars when they turn the warning light on they freeze a code(or codes) which should be able to be read. Some inexperienced mechanics and owners do things like disconnect the battery or use tools to reset the light without following the Factory Service Manual process for what the code indicates they should be looking at to repair. At minimum they should be able to read the code(s) to find out which part of the IMA is acting up. Once they have the codes there should be a troubleshooting process specific to that code and that error they need to follow to diagnose and repair the car. In summary if a light goes on and then off the code (s) should be recorded. Not all consumer code readers can read unique to the vehicle codes(IMA?) so they may need to use the Honda specific Tech II or other dealer or professional code reader.
 

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Thanks for your reply. It turns out there was a code for the ipu fan, however the fan is integrated into the battery. I will be sadly letting my crz go in part exchange for something more practical as I have a baby now. I am going to be very sad to let my crz go. I had it for 6 years and have found it to be an awesome little car. If I was child free I would have swallowed the cost of a new battery and kept it.
 

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Thanks for your reply. It turns out there was a code for the ipu fan, however the fan is integrated into the battery. I will be sadly letting my crz go in part exchange for something more practical as I have a baby now. I am going to be very sad to let my crz go. I had it for 6 years and have found it to be an awesome little car. If I was child free I would have swallowed the cost of a new battery and kept it.
The IPU fan is not integrated to the battery... it should be a serviceable part, even in the UK

 

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So if you can get a new fan ipu, have the honda dealership lied to me? Would they be allowed to give such incorrect information? I know everyone wants to make a buck but that would be totally outrageous. Thanks for the information do appreciate it
 

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There are many postings on here about how to replace the IPU fan. It is not integrated into the battery but it lives in the compartment where the battery is.

Here is one of them: [DIY] IPU fan Code P1643 and P1448

No member here has had to replace an IMA Battery yet. IPU Fan and DC to DC converter yes.

Please do not dispose of your CR-Z due to a dealer playing games because they are not familiar with replacing a simple fan.

This is the part number 1J810-RTW-003 but many places show it discontinued. I have seen on Ebay and you can always check used from Used CRZ Parts | Honda | 2011-2016 | Redline Auto Parts

Above was posted this link in stock 2011-2016 Honda CR-Z HATCHBACK Fan Assembly, Cooling 1J810-RTW-003 | Honda Parts Network $155.95

Do you have another Honda Dealer anywhere near you? First they tell you no codes then they tell you you have to replace the battery. It seems they just want to sell you a new car not fix a reliable car you have. Talk to dealer ownership and explain how you found out they were lying and they should be willing to replace the fan or just go somewhere else and tell anyone you know to never go to them.

So if you can get a new fan ipu, have the honda dealership lied to me? Would they be allowed to give such incorrect information? I know everyone wants to make a buck but that would be totally outrageous. Thanks for the information do appreciate it
 

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Could be that they didn't know what they were talking about, but I see that the fan assembly is a discontinued part now, but you can still purchase the motor assembly for about $160 US.
 

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I read about that on here, I just don't understand why the guys at honda told me its integrated. I got the car from them and have loyally had it serviced every year with them so hard to believe they would lie like that
 
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