Man, I’m having some issues and bad luck! 2011 Honda CR-Z bought used 3 years ago. Approx 66k miles. First time posting here. Here’s the timeline:
12/31 Flat tire, changed to spare
Think hazard lights drained battery-car won’t start-Jumped car
IMA lights came on-no radio, locks won’t work with key fob. Lock in door controls won’t work unless car is running.
1/02 Had 12v battery checked-Autozone said bad cell (battery was old) so replaced 12v battery. Still showing IMA warnings
1/03 new tires (don’t think it’s related but...)
1/04 oil change (again don’t think it’s related)
1/05 Found #1 backup fuse blown
Came back out later same day and car cranks but won’t start or starts and immediately dies. Car is slow to crank. AC does turn on in accessory position. Attempted jumping with a portable jumper-nothing.
1/06 checked all underdash blade fuses and except for #1 backup fuse all are intact.
going to get new backup 15amp fuse tomorrow.
Could this blown fuse cause all of these issues?!? I had driven with IMA warning on for a good chunk of miles...Praying to the Honda gods that my IMA battery isn’t bad. Any help or advice is much appreciated
Man, I’m having some issues and bad luck! 2011 Honda CR-Z bought used 3 years ago. Approx 66k miles. First time posting here. Here’s the timeline:
Could this blown fuse cause all of these issues?!? I had driven with IMA warning on for a good chunk of miles...Praying to the Honda gods that my IMA battery isn’t bad. Any help or advice is much appreciated
That is the main IMA system fuse and is the one removed when car is being shipped to USA to keep IMA from discharging. If that fuse is blown not sure if car will start using the IMA.
You had a fuse blow you replaced the fuse with no diagnostics it blew again. You drove the car with a warning light "for a good Chunk of miles" your IMA system was having issues you did nothing for it. The system has the Battery and the IMA motor generator and a lot of other pieces. As soon as you got the warning light and it did not go away when you replaced battery, it should have been in a dealership or other shop to diagnose and repair the IMA issues. If there was any warranty when the light started it is now long gone. Take the car to a dealership and have it diagnosed or at least go to a place and get the actual code to see what the error was pointing to. Be prepared for some fairly expensive repairs probably the IMA motor.
A warning light is never a good sign. A blown fuse is an even worse sign. Never just replace a fuse unless you know exactly why it blew. A fuse protects the circuit and wiring from fire and other issues.
That is the main IMA system fuse and is the one removed when car is being shipped to USA to keep IMA from discharging. If that fuse is blown not sure if car will start using the IMA.
You had a fuse blow you replaced the fuse with no diagnostics it blew again. The system has the Battery and the IMA motor generator and a lot of other pieces. As soon as you got the warning light and it did not go away when you replaced battery, it should have been in a dealership or other shop to diagnose and repair the IMA issues. If there was any warranty when the light started it is now long gone. Take the car to a dealership and have it diagnosed or at least go to a place and get the actual code to see what the error was
Fuse did not blow again. It hasn’t been replaced. Waiting on a ride to auto shop to get one.
I honestly didn’t even know I had an IMA battery until all this happened so it’s been a learning process. A code reader was plugged in two different times (by uncle and by auto zone). Car doesn’t even register or acknowledge that it’s been plugged in let alone give any other information. Sometimes finances keep people from taking a car in to a shop or dealership right away...I’m not sure if you’re just a very blunt person or are being rude but either way I wanted to explain myself. Thanks for making a newbie feel unwelcome!
“Found stored codes 61-81, P1298, U0155, U0110, U1205//SRS E1-11, D4-11, 32-11, 31,11, ABS 65-1, 86-1, 61-1 CAN 23-05. Reinstalled fuses. Cleared DTC’s. Multiple codes returned. Performed complete ground reset several times. All systems have returned to normal operation. Relearned TPMS system. Test drove four times. Vehicle is operating properly at this time.”
Everything is still holding strong, except TPMS light came back on but the tire shop told me one of the front sensors was bad. This light was on for probably a year or so before any of this happened so I’m not concerned with it. Just watching the pressure in my tires. If anyone wants to make sense out of the dealership’s message feel free to translate. I think the jolt of the pothole impact and my car being jumped threw a bunch of codes perhaps causing IMA system to not work properly this running down my 12v battery and causing my car not to start. Chalking it up to a series of very unfortunate events.
They had trouble getting the computer to communicate with their diagnostic tools at first...I’m not sure what that was all about or maybe just a ploy for additional labor charges. They said they did change out some fuses that were brown on the edges also.
Most/many of those codes are electrical in nature, so there's no surprise that they had an initial problem with the computer to communicate with their diagnostic tools. I figure, all problems starting with the jumping of the 12v--the technique, or otherwise....
Anyone in here had any luck with a portable jumper such as the Halo brand? I just want to take every precaution possible to not have this happen again. Maybe my uncle’s F-150 had too much power for my little Z? Or if it wasn’t done properly this could be avoided altogether if I invested in a portable battery jumper...any thoughts/opinions are appreciated as always
I bought a similar unit to this one https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Power-A...1_2?keywords=bolt+power&qid=1579646741&sr=8-2 Haven't needed to use it yet but it came with a case and every few months I make sure it is charged. I keep it in its case in the bin behind my passenger seat so I can get to it if car is completely dead and to keep it warmer than if it was in hatch area.
Good all is working now, As for the senors for TPMS they have a non replaceable battery so at some point that needs addresseed as with the warning on the dash it disables the stability system and some other systems like ABS. When you can replace all 4 sensors then you can ignore them for 5 or more years. Hopefully no more fuses will blow. Thank you for the update.
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