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Thank you so much for that and for checking up on me. They called tonight and said they are having trouble getting the computer to communicate so who knows...doesn’t sound cheap so far. I may have to purchase a bicycle lol.
Actually a new ECU is pretty cheap. Can get one on ebay for around $80-150. Then the shop you are using just needs to re-program it to match you car VIN, mileage, etc.. which they can do with their honda HDS software.

Hope it turns out okay!! I have yet to see someones ECU break. Did it ever get flooded or have anything crazy like that happen? The ECU sits inside the engine bay in a little black box. Did engine ever get flooded with water or anything?
 

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Were you ever able to find out what the issue was? Hopefully it was just the 12V battery needed a charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Here’s what the dealership paperwork said:

“Found stored codes 61-81, P1298, U0155, U0110, U1205//SRS E1-11, D4-11, 32-11, 31,11, ABS 65-1, 86-1, 61-1 CAN 23-05. Reinstalled fuses. Cleared DTC’s. Multiple codes returned. Performed complete ground reset several times. All systems have returned to normal operation. Relearned TPMS system. Test drove four times. Vehicle is operating properly at this time.”

Everything is still holding strong, except TPMS light came back on but the tire shop told me one of the front sensors was bad. This light was on for probably a year or so before any of this happened so I’m not concerned with it. Just watching the pressure in my tires. If anyone wants to make sense out of the dealership’s message feel free to translate. I think the jolt of the pothole impact and my car being jumped threw a bunch of codes perhaps causing IMA system to not work properly this running down my 12v battery and causing my car not to start. Chalking it up to a series of very unfortunate events.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
They had trouble getting the computer to communicate with their diagnostic tools at first...I’m not sure what that was all about or maybe just a ploy for additional labor charges. They said they did change out some fuses that were brown on the edges also.
 

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Most/many of those codes are electrical in nature, so there's no surprise that they had an initial problem with the computer to communicate with their diagnostic tools. I figure, all problems starting with the jumping of the 12v--the technique, or otherwise....
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Anyone in here had any luck with a portable jumper such as the Halo brand? I just want to take every precaution possible to not have this happen again. Maybe my uncle’s F-150 had too much power for my little Z? Or if it wasn’t done properly this could be avoided altogether if I invested in a portable battery jumper...any thoughts/opinions are appreciated as always :)
 

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In the UK I bought :_
Powerseed Mini Boost 2A Car Battery Jump Starter Pack Portable High Capacity Power Bank 12V Booster for Automotive, Motorcycle, Boats, with Clamps and
Sold by: MyMemory
Through Amazon. Not sure if you can get them over there.
Works fine. twice now I have had to use it, after sitting parked up with radio on.
I think a 9 volt pp9 we call them, tiny little thing size of a big thumb would also have worked!!!??? The ECU just need a tiny amount of current to bring the EMA to life???
Good luck
 
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I bought a similar unit to this one
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Power-A7P-Gasoline-Flashlight/dp/B07JLV2QT5/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bolt+power&qid=1579646741&sr=8-2 Haven't needed to use it yet but it came with a case and every few months I make sure it is charged. I keep it in its case in the bin behind my passenger seat so I can get to it if car is completely dead and to keep it warmer than if it was in hatch area.

Anyone in here had any luck with a portable jumper such as the Halo brand? I just want to take every precaution possible to not have this happen again. Maybe my uncle’s F-150 had too much power for my little Z? Or if it wasn’t done properly this could be avoided altogether if I invested in a portable battery jumper...any thoughts/opinions are appreciated as always :)
 

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In the UK I bought :_
Powerseed Mini Boost 2A Car Battery Jump Starter Pack Portable High Capacity Power Bank 12V Booster for Automotive, Motorcycle, Boats, with Clamps and
Sold by: MyMemory
Through Amazon. Not sure if you can get them over there.
Works fine. twice now I have had to use it, after sitting parked up with radio on.
I think a 9 volt pp9 we call them, tiny little thing size of a big thumb would also have worked!!!??? The ECU just need a tiny amount of current to bring the EMA to life???
Good luck

That link does not work!!! Bloody Amazon!! It shows a charger, not a booster! Sorry about that???
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Here’s what the dealership paperwork said:

“Found stored codes 61-81, P1298, U0155, U0110, U1205//SRS E1-11, D4-11, 32-11, 31,11, ABS 65-1, 86-1, 61-1 CAN 23-05. Reinstalled fuses. Cleared DTC’s. Multiple codes returned. Performed complete ground reset several times. All systems have returned to normal operation. Relearned TPMS system. Test drove four times. Vehicle is operating properly at this time.”

Everything is still holding strong, except TPMS light came back on but the tire shop told me one of the front sensors was bad. This light was on for probably a year or so before any of this happened so I’m not concerned with it. Just watching the pressure in my tires. If anyone wants to make sense out of the dealership’s message feel free to translate. I think the jolt of the pothole impact and my car being jumped threw a bunch of codes perhaps causing IMA system to not work properly this running down my 12v battery and causing my car not to start. Chalking it up to a series of very unfortunate events.
@Anish @Spdbump
 

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Good all is working now, As for the senors for TPMS they have a non replaceable battery so at some point that needs addresseed as with the warning on the dash it disables the stability system and some other systems like ABS. When you can replace all 4 sensors then you can ignore them for 5 or more years. Hopefully no more fuses will blow. Thank you for the update.
 
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