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Man, I’m having some issues and bad luck! 2011 Honda CR-Z bought used 3 years ago. Approx 66k miles. First time posting here. Here’s the timeline:

12/31 Flat tire, changed to spare
Think hazard lights drained battery-car won’t start-Jumped car
IMA lights came on-no radio, locks won’t work with key fob. Lock in door controls won’t work unless car is running.
1/02 Had 12v battery checked-Autozone said bad cell (battery was old) so replaced 12v battery. Still showing IMA warnings
1/03 new tires (don’t think it’s related but...)
1/04 oil change (again don’t think it’s related)
1/05 Found #1 backup fuse blown
Came back out later same day and car cranks but won’t start or starts and immediately dies. Car is slow to crank. AC does turn on in accessory position. Attempted jumping with a portable jumper-nothing.
1/06 checked all underdash blade fuses and except for #1 backup fuse all are intact.
going to get new backup 15amp fuse tomorrow.
Could this blown fuse cause all of these issues?!? I had driven with IMA warning on for a good chunk of miles...Praying to the Honda gods that my IMA battery isn’t bad. Any help or advice is much appreciated
 

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Man, I’m having some issues and bad luck! 2011 Honda CR-Z bought used 3 years ago. Approx 66k miles. First time posting here. Here’s the timeline:

Could this blown fuse cause all of these issues?!? I had driven with IMA warning on for a good chunk of miles...Praying to the Honda gods that my IMA battery isn’t bad. Any help or advice is much appreciated
That is the main IMA system fuse and is the one removed when car is being shipped to USA to keep IMA from discharging. If that fuse is blown not sure if car will start using the IMA.

You had a fuse blow you replaced the fuse with no diagnostics it blew again. You drove the car with a warning light "for a good Chunk of miles" your IMA system was having issues you did nothing for it. The system has the Battery and the IMA motor generator and a lot of other pieces. As soon as you got the warning light and it did not go away when you replaced battery, it should have been in a dealership or other shop to diagnose and repair the IMA issues. If there was any warranty when the light started it is now long gone. Take the car to a dealership and have it diagnosed or at least go to a place and get the actual code to see what the error was pointing to. Be prepared for some fairly expensive repairs probably the IMA motor.

A warning light is never a good sign. A blown fuse is an even worse sign. Never just replace a fuse unless you know exactly why it blew. A fuse protects the circuit and wiring from fire and other issues.
 

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That is the main IMA system fuse and is the one removed when car is being shipped to USA to keep IMA from discharging. If that fuse is blown not sure if car will start using the IMA.

You had a fuse blow you replaced the fuse with no diagnostics it blew again. The system has the Battery and the IMA motor generator and a lot of other pieces. As soon as you got the warning light and it did not go away when you replaced battery, it should have been in a dealership or other shop to diagnose and repair the IMA issues. If there was any warranty when the light started it is now long gone. Take the car to a dealership and have it diagnosed or at least go to a place and get the actual code to see what the error was
Fuse did not blow again. It hasn’t been replaced. Waiting on a ride to auto shop to get one.
I honestly didn’t even know I had an IMA battery until all this happened so it’s been a learning process. A code reader was plugged in two different times (by uncle and by auto zone). Car doesn’t even register or acknowledge that it’s been plugged in let alone give any other information. Sometimes finances keep people from taking a car in to a shop or dealership right away...I’m not sure if you’re just a very blunt person or are being rude but either way I wanted to explain myself. Thanks for making a newbie feel unwelcome!
 

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Fuse did not blow again. It hasn’t been replaced. Waiting on a ride to auto shop to get one.
I honestly didn’t even know I had an IMA battery until all this happened so it’s been a learning process. A code reader was plugged in two different times (by uncle and by auto zone). Car doesn’t even register or acknowledge that it’s been plugged in let alone give any other information. Sometimes finances keep people from taking a car in to a shop or dealership right away...I’m not sure if you’re just a very blunt person or are being rude but either way I wanted to explain myself. Thanks for making a newbie feel unwelcome!
I am a bit blunt and apologize.
 

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I am a bit blunt and apologize.
I appreciate that. I’ll know in the future that you’re trying to be helpful but you just yell it like it is :)
This has been an awfully upsetting ordeal for me so maybe I’m being a bit sensitive and for that I should apologize too. I’m learning as I go here. Not knowing, feeling helpless and the financial stress is overwhelming.
 

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Fuse did not blow again. It hasn’t been replaced. ...Car doesn’t even register or acknowledge that it’s been plugged in let alone give any other information. ...
Once you get that new fuse, you'll get power for the DTC reader. I replied further, to your other post:
 

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The warnings are yellow for a reason. Right below your speedometer it says IMA Integrated Motor Assist and if I had a light go on I would look in owners manual to find out what the lettering on the warning is but most used cars for some reason have no manuals.

Unfortunately the IMA system is one of the most expensive systems in the car. If the IMA light was on then car was not performing properly and could have stranded you in traffic, or could have gotten you killed. The flat tire, AC, Oil change is all irrelevant. The running the hazards while you were waiting for help to change tire depleted the battery which the IMA was probably not charging properly to begin with ( IMA system charges the under hood battery we have no alternator) and battery was probably not a happy camper to begin with if it was the OEM with Eye one from 2011.

As the IMA system is unique to Honda's a generic scanner probably can't read any "codes" which pushes you to a Honda dealer or a Honda specialty repair shop with a "Tech II scanner" All in all you have a bad situation. Pull the proper value fuse from a circuit you do not need ( radio, or other option) or get a ride to a Walmart etc this should allow you to get it to a shop unless you have a road side assistance plan from anyone where tow will not cost you out of pocket request a flat bed tow truck less chance of damage in towing.

Fuses blow for a reason and I am over sensitive to that scenario as I had an issue on another car where fuse kept blowing, I did not diagnose it and I had a lot of damage to the car including melted wiring. I went so far as to buy a self resetting circuit breaker to replace the fuse. I have had friends with fires where they put a higher amperage fuse than what they replaced and they had a fire. So I am over sensitive.
I appreciate that. I’ll know in the future that you’re trying to be helpful but you just tell it like it is :)
This has been an awfully upsetting ordeal for me so maybe I’m being a bit sensitive and for that I should apologize too. I’m learning as I go here. Not knowing, feeling helpless and the financial stress is overwhelming.
 

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The warnings are yellow for a reason. right below your speedometer it says IMA Integrated Motor Assist and if I had a light go on I would look in owners manual to find out what the lettering on the warning is but most used cars for some reason have no manuals. Unfortunately the IMA system is one of the most expensive systems in the car. If the IMA light was on then car was not performing properly and could have stranded you in traffic and could have gotten you killed. The flat tire, AC, Oil change is all irrelevant. The running the hazards while you were waiting for help to change tire depleted the battery which the IMA was probably not charging properly to begin with ( IMA system charges the under hood battery we have no alternator) and battery was probably not a hapopy camper to begin with if it was the OEM with Eye one from 2011.
As the IMA system is unique to Honda's a generic scanner probably can't read any "codes" which pushes you to a Honda dealer or a Honda specialty repair shop with a "Tech II scanner" All in all you have a bad situation. Pull the proper value fuse from a circuit you do not need ( radio, or other option) or get q ride to a Walmart etc this should allow you to get it to a shop unless you have a road side assistance plan from anyone where tow will not cost you out of pocket request a flat bed tow truck less chance of damage in towing.

Fuses blow for a reason and I am over sensitive to that scenario as I had an issue on another car where fuse kept blowing, I did not diagnose it and i had a lot of damage to the car including melted wiring. I went so far as to buy a self resetting circuit breaker to replace the fuse. I have had friends with fires where they put a higher amperage fuse than what they replaced and they had a fire. So I am over sensitive.
Replaced fuse-lights, locks, radio, etc are all working properly but car will crack and turn over but dies immediately. Neighbor had portable jumper but we weren’t successful in getting it to start and stay running. I’m wondering if i just depleted all my power sources and maybe battery needs charging or with my power depletion’s if it threw some codes that need to be cleared. Either way, I think it’s going to Honda dealership tomorrow.
 

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IMA light still on?

Replaced fuse-lights, locks, radio, etc are all working properly but car will crack and turn over but dies immediately. Neighbor had portable jumper but we weren’t successful in getting it to start and stay running. I’m wondering if i just depleted all my power sources and maybe battery needs charging or with my power depletion’s if it threw some codes that need to be cleared. Either way, I think it’s going to Honda dealership tomorrow.
 

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Replaced fuse-lights, locks, radio, etc are all working properly but car will crack and turn over but dies immediately. Neighbor had portable jumper but we weren’t successful in getting it to start and stay running. I’m wondering if i just depleted all my power sources and maybe battery needs charging or with my power depletion’s if it threw some codes that need to be cleared. Either way, I think it’s going to Honda dealership tomorrow.
Sounds to me like your battery definitely needs a charge. These tiny batteries cant take much. Honestly, I think thats your biggest problem here. You need to try that first. If you have to buy a new one, I recommend purchasing a 51R model battery from a larger car (civic) and putting it inside yours. You will have to but the right lip off the battery tray. But trust me, its worth it. You will get many more 'cranking' chances with a larger battery. Plus larger reserve. Battery tray needs to be cut like so:





If you have not tried charging your battery / replacing it yet.. DO THIS FIRST, before going any further. The 12v underhood battery (not IMA battery in the rear) is a huge common problem on these cars. They die very easy.
 

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IMA light still on?
Can’t get the car to run long enough for dashboard lights to come on so I couldn’t tell last night. It’s taking an expensive ride to the dealership to have professionals look at it today. I’m done fooling with it. :/
 

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Sounds to me like your battery definitely needs a charge. These tiny batteries cant take much. Honestly, I think thats your biggest problem here. You need to try that first. If you have to buy a new one, I recommend purchasing a 51R model battery from a larger car (civic) and putting it inside yours. You will have to but the right lip off the battery tray. But trust me, its worth it. You will get many more 'cranking' chances with a larger battery. Plus larger reserve. Battery tray needs to be cut like so:





If you have not tried charging your battery / replacing it yet.. DO THIS FIRST, before going any further. The 12v underhood battery (not IMA battery in the rear) is a huge common problem on these cars. They die very easy.
Thanks for the tips! 12v was replaced on Jan 2nd.
 

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Sorry to hear that but I hope it is something either covered by some secret warranty or they give you some courtesy credit and it is not something major like I was thinking.

I wish you the best of luck.

Can’t get the car to run long enough for dashboard lights to come on so I couldn’t tell last night. It’s taking an expensive ride to the dealership to have professionals look at it today. I’m done fooling with it. :/
 

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Sorry to hear that but I hope it is something either covered by some secret warranty or they give you some courtesy credit and it is not something major like I was thinking.

I wish you the best of luck.
Thank you so much for that and for checking up on me. They called tonight and said they are having trouble getting the computer to communicate so who knows...doesn’t sound cheap so far. I may have to purchase a bicycle lol.
 

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Double and triple check that the IMA system warranty is up. Check attached.
Thank you so much for that and for checking up on me. They called tonight and said they are having trouble getting the computer to communicate so who knows...doesn’t sound cheap so far. I may have to purchase a bicycle lol.
 

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