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I've found it hard to detect regen versus brake on the CR-Z. On the civic it's blatantly obvious, but I still use a light touch out of habit. The near seamless integration of the system is actually something Honda can be proud of - on many hybrids the system is, by all accounts, quite intrusive.

Epic MPG by the way ;-)
Sorry for the late reply... and thanks ;)

Detecting brake engagement is very difficult I'll agree, Honda has done really well there for the CR-Z. It's easier to tell on the CVT because the clutch disengages when Autostop occurs. Once I'm free-rolling I can let up on the brake pedal and can detect no reduction in deceleration which tells me the brake pads were not being activated.

With 2 hours of practice a day I have the pedal position pretty well memorized for doing this. Best way to describe it is I apply just enough brake pedal pressure to light up all the regen bars and not a bit more than that. The CVT transmission will try to maintain charging right up until the clutch disengages, although the amount of charge drops from full before that point. I will normally hold pedal position until the car coasts to a stop and then drop it to hold position in traffic. If I time things correctly I can cost like this right to where I want to stop without using any real brake pad pressure at all, as Bennett suggested earlier.
 

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I don't think there's a brake engagement - the brakes work normally, and the regen is 'always on'. At least that's how it's designed :)

I really want to do the flappy paddle brake switch like ITEM9 has. I'd like it on the right paddle, and the S+ on the left paddle.
 

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Brake regen and coasting regen appear to be two separate things. I take trips regularly to higher elevations, which provides an opportunity to recuperate a lot of potential energy on the trip back down. In my experience, once the IMA batteries are completely charged, the car will cease regenerative coasting, but will still provide some regenerative braking. After a little while in this mode of operation, the system will no longer provide regenerative braking either.

These observations are all based on the CHRG_____|_____ASST meter activity while descending 3,000 ft in elevation. It could be that this is an extreme use case or that the meter isn't always completely honest about what's going on in the IMA system. I can definitely feel the difference when regen coasting is no longer working, but the differences under braking are more subtle.
 

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Brake regen and coasting regen appear to be two separate things.

...once the IMA batteries are completely charged, the car will cease regenerative coasting, but will still provide some regenerative braking. After a little while in this mode of operation, the system will no longer provide regenerative braking either.
This is a change from the 1st gen Insight which cut off both coasting and brake pedal activated regen together once the meter was full. I regretted having to use full brake pressure to slow the car rather than regen once the computer detected a full pack charge. Based on your observation I would have to guess the meter is fibbing a bit once that last light is lit. There must be some extra capacity still available for brake regen to operate.

This is actually a good improvement over the Insight. If coasting regen is deactivated so should the constant battery pack trickle charge Honda is known to do. This should provide a small boost to available power and fuel economy. If you're on a flat surface for some time that is, if you're always on a downhill run it's going to be difficult to determine the improvements due to no-charge loading and those due to gravity assist.

As I noted in an earlier post, I was able to top off the Insight almost daily. With pack trickle-charging disabled I was able to improve my fuel useage from ~65mpg on a flat surface to up around ~72mpg, so it was a noticeable effect.
 

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This is why I always tell members to get a true MPG by going from a full tank to as low a tank as you dare and to manually calculate the MPG. More miles driven = more accurate. You can get a number of different MPGs depending on where you look ( which odometer and other gauges), A GPS or a device like a Scan Gauge II or other external reading or hand calculation. Can also be thrown off by when you reset how many miles you have driven etc.

My MPG today is different than when i was commuting because The Speed Bump is only driven short trips infrequently since I now work from home abd only fill it monthly. My current tank after fill and only driven two days shows On the MID A Odometer showing 40 MPG B Odometer showing 37 MPG ( I never reset B but some dealers have and it resets every 10k I think)
Scan Gauge II shows instant, Average , trip, today , yesterday and tank. GPS because I reset it every tank shows a different MPG. I can also calculate it going by my gas record book and I have posted those results before on this forum.
 
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