I did find the fuse box diagrams for my mechanic. They have since determined the next step is to replace the cabin fuse box. It took me several days, but I found a used one on eBay for $150. They are about $700 new from the dealer. I already owe my mechanic about $700 so far, so not trying to double that just yet.
The reason for a whole new fuse box is because multiple other fuses also have no power, or “6/10 of a volt” which they said is weird (“either it’s powered or it’s not”). I wish I could have recorded the conversation because a lot of what the mechanic said went over my head, lol... He said there were “a lot of continuity issues” including with a relay for the ECM. He said he “applied 12V power behind the coil” and then he said “there was continuity where there shouldn’t be” regarding that relay. Connection to the ECU, even with supplied power to the DLC (data link connector aka OBD II port) has been an ongoing issue.
Anyway the fuse box should be here Wednesday. Supposedly changing it out won’t require the dealer’s HDS unit. My local dealer has been huge help to my mechanic and myself, especially with confirming compatibility of used fuse boxes. They used the VIN of the donor CRZ to confirm the used fuse box will work.
Will update again once we see what a new fuse box does for it.
“Multiplex Integrated Control Unit”
It’s the computer for the cabin fuse box, and it happens to be attached to the back of it. Explains why a new fuse box is so expensive!
“Multiplex Integrated Control Unit”
It’s the computer for the cabin fuse box, and it happens to be attached to the back of it. Explains why a new fuse box is so expensive!
View attachment 60069
So you need one of these? Or the fuse box? I got one for a 2011 6MT.. still parting my car out. I would need to figure out what the part looks like, then could pull it.
Let me know. Hit me up via pm or my name @ hotmail.com.
So you need one of these? Or the fuse box? I got one for a 2011 6MT.. still parting my car out. I would need to figure out what the part looks like, then could pull it.
Let me know. Hit me up via pm or my name @ hotmail.com.
$995 later, I’m picking it up tonight. The mechanic after changing the fuse box, drove it for 25 minutes and nothing happened. All CEL codes are gone and cleared. I just need to drive it to get the emissions readiness monitors to “ready” and I can get it inspected!
He bench tested both fuse boxes after removing the old one. Every continuity issue in the old box was not present in the new (used) one I bought. We don’t know what happened to the old fuse box, but it was seriously messed up. With that said, I would like to find another used one to keep handy :lol:
Sounds like some kind of catastrophic issue occurred on the previous one. If he gave yout he bad one back take a close look at it for corrosion etc. Wasn't that the modified CR-Z you bought? Maybe some of the work that was done to modify it was done sloppy?
$995 later, I’m picking it up tonight. The mechanic after changing the fuse box, drove it for 25 minutes and nothing happened. All CEL codes are gone and cleared. I just need to drive it to get the emissions readiness monitors to “ready” and I can get it inspected!
He bench tested both fuse boxes after removing the old one. Every continuity issue in the old box was not present in the new (used) one I bought. We don’t know what happened to the old fuse box, but it was seriously messed up. With that said, I would like to find another used one to keep handy :lol:
I used Hondata to turn the oxygen sensors and EGR back on so I can pass emissions testing next week hopefully. Tomorrow night I will drive the car per Honda’s owner manual instructions for getting the emissions monitors “ready”. Wish me luck.
So I drove the car tonight according to the drive cycle directions in the owners manual. That part went well - had only 1 monitor not ready (heated catalyst) but that’s ok in NY.
While driving to the shop to drop off the car for inspection, “CHECK EMISSIONS” popped up and my heart sank. I pulled over and the code is P0420.
Now, I had this same code in my black CRZ earlier this year. I guessed and replaced the secondary O2 sensor and it worked. But I don’t have time to play guessing games with the white CRZ. So I still dropped it off at the shop.
I had a few thoughts while being Ubered home. I wrote them down in my phone so I can call the shop Monday.
“Half tank year old fuel, added 2.5 gallons of regular on accident. Sprintex requires premium
Tune seems to run rich. Could have caused catalytic converter to fail, but in one night?
My black CRZ had the same code, and a downstream O2 sensor replacement fixed it. I have used a secondary cat delete pipe for years, possibly making that downstream O2 sensor dirty faster. My white CRZ has NO cats for years, so I wonder if the secondary O2 sensor is spent.”
Yes I forgot I’m supposed to use premium - oops. But I only put 2.5 gals of regular in.
On the forum most folks who got P0420 had to replace their primary cat. I got lucky with my black CRZ and didn’t have to (yet). I wouldn’t mind replacing it on the white car, but the cat is barely used, been sitting in my and previous owners basements. I really hope it’s not because the tune runs rich... Dr Google told me that running rich or leans takes a long time to damage the cat. So I really really hope it’s not the tune. Idk, might just take the whole Sprintex out if that’s the case. It’s been nothing but a headache.