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Out of curiosity what did the 2 re-manufactured Calipers cost and what was the Core Charge? I agree with your decision to rebuild them yourself and put on the shelf for next time.



How many miles before you needed repair/replacement? The Speed Bump is getting close to 67K miles and I am still on Original brakes all the way around and I am curious when and how much I should budget for the brakes.


Just ordered some NASTRA brand remanufactured rear calipers; both of them. My boyfriend had to replace his rears last winter. One seized up on the way home from Canada, it was really hard for him to source remans. I just had a difficult time too. Was going to buy Autozone ones but I had to wait a few days til I got paid. By the time I had money, they were gone. Those would have been the best deal too...

When we replaced rotors and pads in my CRZ last November my rear pistons were very difficult to push back in and the boot around the piston tore and leaked some fluid. Figure I might as well replace them before the dragon. Last thing I need is for one to get seized up while down there.

I will NOT be turning in my original ones to get the core cost back. I will be keeping them, and either rebuilding them myself or sending them out to have it done. Then I will be all set next time I need some replacements!
 

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Red&Black
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My boyfriends rear caliper seized at around 95,000 miles. My own CRZ (the black one) is at 130,000 miles. All my miles have been in salty NY. My boyfriends CRZ has only been in NY since 60,000 miles (purchased from owner in Kentucky).

The Autozone Duralast brand were like $95 each, and I think the core was $25 each. I had a $50 Autozone gift card ready to go too, and there was a 20% sale on their website.. Really wouldve saved me money but currently they are sold out, even on eBay (I had found them on eBay too).

Instead on eBay I got the NASTA for $126 each. If I wanted to return the core Id get $55 back each. So overall the cost for a remanufactured rear caliper is about $70 each.

I guess I will have to use my Autozone gift card on a downstream O2 sensor for that P0420 check engine light!

Out of curiosity what did the 2 re-manufactured Calipers cost and what was the Core Charge? I agree with your decision to rebuild them yourself and put on the shelf for next time.



How many miles before you needed repair/replacement? The Speed Bump is getting close to 67K miles and I am still on Original brakes all the way around and I am curious when and how much I should budget for the brakes.[\quote]
 

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Looks like I have quite a while before I need to think about it despite The Speed Bump being exposed to NY & VA salt/brine on roads. Thank you for your reply.
My boyfriends rear caliper seized at around 95,000 miles. My own CRZ (the black one) is at 130,000 miles. All my miles have been in salty NY. My boyfriends CRZ has only been in NY since 60,000 miles (purchased from owner in Kentucky).

The Autozone Duralast brand were like $95 each, and I think the core was $25 each. I had a $50 Autozone gift card ready to go too, and there was a 20% sale on their website.. Really wouldve saved me money but currently they are sold out, even on eBay (I had found them on eBay too).

Instead on eBay I got the NASTA for $126 each. If I wanted to return the core Id get $55 back each. So overall the cost for a remanufactured rear caliper is about $70 each.

I guess I will have to use my Autozone gift card on a downstream O2 sensor for that P0420 check engine light!

Out of curiosity what did the 2 re-manufactured Calipers cost and what was the Core Charge? I agree with your decision to rebuild them yourself and put on the shelf for next time.



How many miles before you needed repair/replacement? The Speed Bump is getting close to 67K miles and I am still on Original brakes all the way around and I am curious when and how much I should budget for the brakes.[\quote]
 

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Red&Black
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I was just driving home in rush hour traffic and I started hearing this loud squeak, almost constant, and it went away when I hit the brakes. Driver side, I believe rear caliper. It has already squealing when braking for a few months, though just changed rotors and pads in November. This new sound happens when driving, not braking. I think it may be seizing up. :( When I parked in my driveway I touched both rear calipers with my hand and the driver one was way hotter..

Just got the remanufactured ones in the mail today though!
 

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Red&Black
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Another caliper update. I think my rear calipers are still ok. That noise I heard is actually coming from my front driver caliper! It did it again on Sunday. Noise went away when turning (no braking applied) and when braking, and only occurred at lower parking lot speeds. Its partially seized when hot after longer drives. I do recall when I had the RSX Type S calipers installed 3 years ago (I bought them used) one of them was already seized and the shop replaced it. I could try to look it up on the forum to confirm but I am thinking it was the front passenger caliper that is new.

I had only checked how hot the rear calipers were before. Yesterday when the noise occurred again I touched all four and the front driver was hot as hell, like too hot to touch. The rear driver was warmer than the passenger but not alarmingly hot like the front was. Ugh... I was already planning on taking my boyfriends red powder coated RSX Type S calipers (he is doing a different big brake upgrade) but he doesnt have all his parts yet. So now we are rushing to buy his parts because I need the fronts changed out ASAP. I guess its good that this all happened now and not while at the dragon...
 

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I’m in the same boat, left rear Caliper random dragging, no one has rebuilt calipers. I’m not paying $500+ for OEM. Ordered pistons and seal kit. I have a cylinder hone if necessary and will probably just wire wheel/ paint the castings.
 

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Why not rebuild all four of yours with parts from Rockauto? Rex is fairly handy and so are you.:smile2:



Another caliper update. I think my rear calipers are still ok. That noise I heard is actually coming from my front driver caliper! It did it again on Sunday. Noise went away when turning (no braking applied) and when braking, and only occurred at lower parking lot speeds. Its partially seized when hot after longer drives. I do recall when I had the RSX Type S calipers installed 3 years ago (I bought them used) one of them was already seized and the shop replaced it. I could try to look it up on the forum to confirm but I am thinking it was the front passenger caliper that is new.

I had only checked how hot the rear calipers were before. Yesterday when the noise occurred again I touched all four and the front driver was hot as hell, like too hot to touch. The rear driver was warmer than the passenger but not alarmingly hot like the front was. Ugh... I was already planning on taking my boyfriends red powder coated RSX Type S calipers (he is doing a different big brake upgrade) but he doesnt have all his parts yet. So now we are rushing to buy his parts because I need the fronts changed out ASAP. I guess its good that this all happened now and not while at the dragon...
 

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Red&Black
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Hello all! I haven’t logged on since the forum renovation (the autoguide app stopped working heh). I hate using the mobile browser because things never scroll quite right, etc...

But I wanted to share with you all that while at the dragon meet this year my boyfriend RatchetRex proposed to me at fontana dam! I said yes :wub: It was a beautiful place, amongst the mountains and our CRZs. I was not expecting it, but it was the perfect place :)
 

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Help I can't hit the like button enough times!!!

Also the Tapatalk app works well, though you will want to disable the extra signature it adds or spdbump will message you lol.
 
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Red&Black
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Had some luck today with the white supercharged Z. I reopened my Hondata RMA ticket for help on why I couldn’t connect my Flashpro to the ecu. I last tried back in April. Well today I downloaded the newest version and was able to connect and lock the Flashpro to the ecu again! (Flash back: sent ecu and Flashpro to Hondata September 2018 because the ecu errored after they told me to try a 2012 Honda CR-Z calibration file even tho my CRZ is 2011. They fixed my ecu and also found a fix for my ECM/PCM mismatch check engine light codes).

Still having issues opening Romie’s original tune file on the new version of flashpro manager. Waiting to hear back from Hondata, and have my fiancé take a look at it - he used to tune cars for a living ;)

I am also excited tonight that I found some new check engine codes: P0107, P2122, P2127. These could be clues as to why it keeps shutting off randomly! They have to do with the MAP sensor and accelerator/throttle positions D and E. Not sure what to do with that information but it’s good to know regardless! One step closer.
 

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Red&Black
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Hondata updated my tune for me to the latest Flashpro version in which they updated the USDM CVT CRZ binary to reflect a transmission update Honda did years ago that Hondata wasn’t aware of. This was the reason for my U0301 ECM/PCM mismatch check engine light, “check transmission” message on the dash and a flashing green light when in Drive.

Since uploading the updated tune file all that is gone!!! I am crossing my fingers that that’s that! Now all I need is the two catalytic converters back on to pass NYS inspection and renew my registration by the end of the year :)

Of course for NYS inspection I also need my monitors all passing, and for that I need to drive it... but the shutting off issue... ?
 

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Red&Black
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Last weekend I had the white crz towed to my favorite shop, in the hopes that they can figure out the shutting off issue. And also put the cats back on.

So its been there 3 days, they work on it for a few hours a day. First day they found they couldn't connect to the DLC (data link connector, aka obd-ii port), but when they put 12V to the line it worked and the car actually behaved normally. So for some reason that line is getting intermittent power. Second day they found the DLC wasn't getting power because something was wrong with the B1 fuse (under dash fuse box) and it's circuit. They said when the applied power and ground to that, everything worked again. I have the PDF of the service manual and looked up what components are on that circuit, and it is indeed everything that I lose power to when the car "shuts down". Fancy that! I cant seem to copy paste text from the pdf but I can try to upload a screen shot.

The second day the mechanic also expressed concern that there was a DTC for loss of communication to the IMA, and that he wouldn't be able to remedy that. I told him the IMA light does come on while the car is in "shut down mode", but when its running normal it isn't there. He still expressed concern that if it doesn't go away it will have to go to the dealer. Well when I was looking up circuit diagrams for fuse B1, I came across a picture of a "MCM" next to the IMA battery and computer in the back. And MCM (motor control module) is listed as a component connected to fuse B1. I just did a little more digging tonight in the service manual, and the MCM is indeed a part of the hybrid battery system. It is a part of the IPU. So that would explain the lack of communication - MCM is also receiving intermittent power.

Anyways, I got no phone call today (third day). They might have not worked on it today. But the next step sounded like using the circuit diagrams to find a short or other issue with the fuse B1 circuit. Like why is it losing power? Ugh how annoying. I was hoping it was something simple like the Viper remote start/alarm, or the messy spliced into engine harness. Trying to keep this car, because if I tried to sell it not working I would be upside down on my loan. So might as well try to fix it. Hopefully it doesn't take too much more work. My cat has been having health issues right now, and my finances are suffering enough as it is... Sigh.
 

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Red&Black
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Oh and if anyone is interested, I got the car shutting off while driving on video! I was attempting to drive it 12 minutes to the shop, but it only lasted 5 minutes. In fact, the dash etc flickered by the time I got to the end of my street. That's when I decided to record.


I'll also attach some pictures from the exciting tow truck event.
 

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Oh and if anyone is interested, I got the car shutting off while driving on video! I was attempting to drive it 12 minutes to the shop, but it only lasted 5 minutes. In fact, the dash etc flickered by the time I got to the end of my street. That's when I decided to record.


I'll also attach some pictures from the exciting tow truck event.
This could be obvious but have you checked if the negative terminal or the ground is loose ? I have a friend who experienced the same thing but it turned out his ground connector was loose.
 

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Red&Black
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This could be obvious but have you checked if the negative terminal or the ground is loose ? I have a friend who experienced the same thing but it turned out his ground connector was loose.
Yes they mentioned some stuff about grounds. Like that the ones for the ECU we pretty much non existent.
I don’t think they had started tracing the line back yet, they wanted to get ahold of a circuit diagram
 

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Yes they mentioned some stuff about grounds. Like that the ones for the ECU we pretty much non existent.
I don’t think they had started tracing the line back yet, they wanted to get ahold of a circuit diagram
Oh sorry I forgot to say my friend’s case was as simple as the negative terminal on the battery which got loosen or he didn’t tighten it. I wouldn’t doubt if squirrels or rats chew off some of your wires. It has happened to another CRZ owner on his MAP sensor.
 

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@HondaHolly It really sounds as simple as "you've got a damaged ground or feed" on the B1 circuit. At this point I'd say feed since you lose the WHOLE circuit at once. if it was a bad ground, it would be either wider spread than that, or more isolated than "Everything on that circuit"

All the symptoms you've described are on that Circuit.

Could also be a fried MICU. Have you ever had the car jump-started? Might want to see if @d1giPhux is willing to pull the MICU...
 
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