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Any warranty on the bulbs? Were these from a vendor we know( I should read the whole thread forgive me)? I am considering a lot of bulb upgrades and seeing something like this concerns me.

So this happened today. Goodbye 5000k. Put the OEM 4300k back in and they work fine. My boyfriend installed these for me, it's not his first rodeo and there was no touching of the bulbs.



The no headlights look:
 

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I fully expect them to make you whole.Nick does stand behind his products. Some thing is not right if both bulbs explode like that so soon after installation. Sounds defective to me. Good luck.

These were from Diode Dynamics here on the forum. There is a warranty, but I'm not sure if it covers "catastrophic failure" of the bulb. I messaged them here but no response yet. May just have to email the company.

Edit: They did message me, asking to email them and include the photos. They will see what they can do to get a refund or exchange. I do miss the slightly bluer look of the 5000ks...
 

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Dielectric grease would prevent arcing but this is a very informative posting. Is dielectric grease recommended for these bulbs?

I haven't posted this yet. As I'm debating if I should. But I don't want the same thing to happen to anyone else. My igniter for my HID ballast burned out about the same time, roughly around 6months after I installed the 6k bulbs from the vendor you purchased your bulb. This is my second set of HID lights one from one vendor in this forum and my most recent one from the vendor you purchased it from.

This is the pic of the burned igniter. Each igniter cost around $259 from honda.



This image shows the difference in the connector of the HID bulb (middle section of the bulb).



The middle is the stock. The one on the right is the vendor you purchased your lights from and the one all the way in the left is another 6k bulb from another vendor in this forum. Notice the difference in the connector (middle metal point of the bulb). I think it is because of the small middle connect that caused an ark that ended up burning the igniters.

Again... This could be a faulty igniter but just wanted to warn you and to look at the bulb you got.
 

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Had 18" of snow fall in less than a day yesterday. I took lots of photos but I have been having trouble using the photobucket app or website lately. Driving was still dicey with winter tires because I only have 4" ground clearance at best!
I forget are you lowered? That was the first thing I noticed when I got the Speed Bump was in the first snow fall I had more trouble in less snow than the previous car due to its height off the road.:blink:
 

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Yes I am lowered in Eibach springs. I ended up getting stuck in the end of my driveway cause I didn't see the pile of snow the plow put there.

I am at stock height and had issues in light snow I can't imagine being lowered. You may want to spray the underside of your lip/bumper with rock guard paint( kind of like bed liner) like I had done on my previous car to prevent plastic damage.
 

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No, I didn't use the relay. I cut the wires for the OEM horns and did a direct replacement. They are louder than OEM. As loud as they could be though, I can't say for sure but probably not.
You may want to consider two relays instead of the direct power to get maximum loudness out of them and to protect your wiring. I am planning to unplug my horns and plug the wires into two relays ( or a single double pole/two circuit relay). If I do it the way I want, there will be a second set of relays or a switch to go back and forth between the new horns and OEM.

I was just curious what you had done with yours . I am planning to use your mount location but with black horns and a camera in the middle.

I wonder if anyone saw me on my epic drive from TX to NY (LI)? I saw a few CR-Zs on the road including one I caught up to and it turned out it was a gen 1 Insight. 46 MPG average for the trip. Speed Bump is stock looking 2013 EX CBP with TX plates.

Any other changes planned while you await your Air Bag replacement?
 

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The brake swap, oil and tranny fluid change, bought a Snell2010 helmet, that's about it. The rest is paperwork and waivers. Yea I'll be emptying out my CRZ the night before, sans food and my toolkit. Will have to figure out what to do about my purse - maybe just carry my ID and a few credit cards in my pocket and hope it's not "that time of the month" :lol:
Can you put your necessities in the under floor rear most compartment?
 

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The Pump is still cooled by the fuel so it runs a little hotter which shortens its life. A long term mechanic explained it to me. My other comment about junk being drawn into the pump is incorrect. Thank you for correcting me.

In colder climates keeping the fuel tank as full as possible( during winter) keeps the amount of condensate( water) lower in the fuel.

I am not sure how the evaporative canister figures into over filling the tank.



Fuel tank capacity: 10.6 US gal (40 liters)--but, you can always count on having MORE in your tank after a fill-up, because that capacity does not include fuel up the filler neck. The pump pumps from the bottom of the tank, where any sediment settles, so it's sucking any debris in on a full tank of fuel also--continuously, filtering out at the screen, then the finer filter down stream. I normally don't fill up until it's "empty," but the tank and/or fuel line has never been emptied.

The results from my 40 year independent testing of filling up Honda's 10.6 gallon tank, and putting in 10 gallons, (±0.5 gallons,) at fill-up, has only resulted in older people telling me that it will hurt my car. Now that I'm the old guy--er, elderly gentleman--in the group, I'm here to dispel the old guard's notion that it's bad to run it low on fuel. Just the fact that you've made it to the pump with the engine still running and willing, means that you haven't run out of fuel, so you can always run it almost out, but still have fuel left in the system at all times with no ill effects.:wink2:
 

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Lol thank you. I wasn't parked there long ^^;

I know you can buy the slats thing as a whole piece. The license plate thing is separate to it. How it clips into the grill though I am not sure of. Would need to look at a parts diagram
Grill with slats is one piece. I know based on my accident where the bumper was replaced but the grill was not. The license plate mount is drilled into the grill into reinforced bosses built into the grill.:nerd:
 

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Mine are nasty too. No I haven't considered it. That's a part of the rotor that you can see there? Sounds like a PITA, take the rotors all the way off to paint them, then it's gottadry for a while before use and your car is chilling on a lift. I think that's why i haven't considered it
I read an article once where they were painted in place but that would not be ideal. People have done this kind of work with the car up on 4 jack stands. When I have a house and the car is paid off I want one of these https://www.quickjack.com/ so this stuff is easy.
 

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Looks like the BL-5000SLX is the model to get--even though the BL-3500SLX is hefty enough to lift the CR-Z, it doesn't reach the min/max lift points of our cars (plus, you'll get the option of using it on heavier vehicles.):wink2:
For $340 difference that makes a lot of sense. The car on the BL-3500SLX in the picture when I first looked at it looked like a CR-Z to me. Thank you for checking the lift points. I am clueless about where the right lift points are.:grin2:
 
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