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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after reading through the forums I decided to get a knock off HDS tool for $115. I've been having problems with my CR-Z and I've used the tool to search for DTC's. I've found quite a few and would like anyone to point me in the right direction on based on what was found. I'll attach some items showing the DTC's and the current overall state of my vehicle.


Added note:
I'm also experiencing
a hard start (Holding down the key until the vehicle kick starts)
And hearing a soft winding noise whenever the A/C is running (I recently had the IPU fan changed.)

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On P0AE1, FSM states the battery module might just be switched off?
"If ignition switch turns to ON (II) when battery module switch is OFF, DTC P0AE1 is stored."

Check to see if they forgot to switch your battery pack back on?
It's under the spare tire stuff in the back, there is a little cover with two bolts. The switch slides forwards (off) or rearwards (on). Depending on which battery type you have the switch might have a bolt locking it in the "on" position.

Also check the 12V battery voltage as I am not sure if the DC-DC charger will charge the battery with the battery isolated (if that ends up being the case).
 

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P0562, 11-02, 61-1: are all related to 12V battery voltage. If the DC-DC charger isn't able to charge the battery; that would explain those codes.
81-1: is likely a ghost code from 12V dropping too low for logic.
 

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@PeterPerkins is the expert, but if I saw hard starting in mine the first thing I would do is replace the Under hood 12 Volt battery (or at least have it load tested) and till the rest of the issues are found and fixed keep the car on a charger maintainer, so it always starts. Sounds like you have a number of issue having to do with the IMA to fix, and the fan did not fix all of them. If the switch is off, then that is definitely an issue!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@PeterPerkins is the expert, but if I saw hard starting in mine the first thing I would do is replace the Under hood 12 Volt battery (or at least have it load tested) and till the rest of the issues are found and fixed keep the car on a charger maintainer, so it always starts. Sounds like you have a number of issue having to do with the IMA to fix, and the fan did not fix all of them. If the switch is off, then that is definitely an issue!
Would this small coverung
On P0AE1, FSM states the battery module might just be switched off?
"If ignition switch turns to ON (II) when battery module switch is OFF, DTC P0AE1 is stored."

Check to see if they forgot to switch your battery pack back on?
It's under the spare tire stuff in the back, there is a little cover with two bolts. The switch slides forwards (off) or rearwards (on). Depending on which battery type you have the switch might have a bolt locking it in the "on" position.

Also check the 12V battery voltage as I am not sure if the DC-DC charger will charge the battery with the battery isolated (if that ends up being the case).
I agree with what's been posted so far.

Sort possible 12v battery and or ground issues.
Check the under dash IMA related fuses.

Then clear all codes and see what comes back.
Then post details for further advice
UPDATE: So I've removed the panel to the switch and it was in the off position. Switched it back on and scanned again for codes. Only two are remaining the P0562 codes. I haven't changed the 12v Battery as yet so its still dead attached when I scanned. I'll buy the new 12v battery when I get some extra cash. Hopefully that resolves those codes. I'll attach an upadted DTC list and current vehicle status list.

P.S There's Still a check engine light on and the IMA amber light as well.

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@PeterPerkins is the expert, but if I saw hard starting in mine the first thing I would do is replace the Under hood 12 Volt battery (or at least have it load tested) and till the rest of the issues are found and fixed keep the car on a charger maintainer, so it always starts. Sounds like you have a number of issue having to do with the IMA to fix, and the fan did not fix all of them. If the switch is off, then that is definitely an issue!
 

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If i am reading this right, your 12V battery is down to 9.3V:
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Any 12V flooded acid battery below 12V will start to damage itself. The faster you get it charged up the better.
If you have a smart trickle charger (I like NOCO) you can let it slowly charge all the way up before you get it tested. Usually takes 12 hours in my experience for severely drained batteries.
Otherwise any charger will do but you can't leave it connected for a long time unsupervised.

As long as there is still electrolyte in the battery (less than 3 years old) you can probably bring it back.
Might save you some money.

If you REALLY want to save some money, add distilled water until the plates inside are just covered by the electrolyte.
Make sure you wear eye protection and if you get any on you: wash with water for a few minutes.
Baking soda is good for cleaning acid up if you spill any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If i am reading this right, your 12V battery is down to 9.3V:
View attachment 69725

Any 12V flooded acid battery below 12V will start to damage itself. The faster you get it charged up the better.
If you have a smart trickle charger (I like NOCO) you can let it slowly charge all the way up before you get it tested. Usually takes 12 hours in my experience for severely drained batteries.
Otherwise any charger will do but you can't leave it connected for a long time unsupervised.

As long as there is still electrolyte in the battery (less than 3 years old) you can probably bring it back.
Might save you some money.

If you REALLY want to save some money, add distilled water until the plates inside are just covered by the electrolyte.
Make sure you wear eye protection and if you get any on you: wash with water for a few minutes.
Baking soda is good for cleaning acid up if you spill any.
Okay, gotchu
 

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Underhood battery will work to much lower capacity than a conventional vehicle but once failed it may not recover. Replace it asap with whichever one you can get at the lowest cost! Even if you have to cut one side of the tray.

They last an average of 5 years but your IMA was off not charging anything and battery got way too low to recover or even be fully charged by driving once it was turned back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Underhood battery will work to much lower capacity than a conventional vehicle but once failed it may not recover. Replace it asap with whichever one you can get at the lowest cost! Even if you have to cut one side of the tray.

They last an average of 5 years but your IMA was off not charging anything and battery got way too low to recover or even be fully charged by driving once it was turned back on.
Replace 12v battery don't waste time trying/effort to resurrect it.
Once they go bad they go bad and it's a notorious failure point on the CR-Z.
If i am reading this right, your 12V battery is down to 9.3V:
View attachment 69725

Any 12V flooded acid battery below 12V will start to damage itself. The faster you get it charged up the better.
If you have a smart trickle charger (I like NOCO) you can let it slowly charge all the way up before you get it tested. Usually takes 12 hours in my experience for severely drained batteries.
Otherwise any charger will do but you can't leave it connected for a long time unsupervised.

As long as there is still electrolyte in the battery (less than 3 years old) you can probably bring it back.
Might save you some money.

If you REALLY want to save some money, add distilled water until the plates inside are just covered by the electrolyte.
Make sure you wear eye protection and if you get any on you: wash with water for a few minutes.
Baking soda is good for cleaning acid up if you spill any.

UPDATE: So I got a new 12v battery hooked it up and did another scan for codes

NOTE: IMA Amber light (Active)
Check Engine light (Active)
Battery light (Flashes ever 5 sec or so)

I did another scan and there was one new code EPS Permanent DTC 11-02 Control Unit Power Supply Voltage but I was able to clear it with the HDS

However I am unable to clear the P0562 codes.

I checked the backup fuse as well and its not blown but I replaced it with a new one just incase but the P0562 DTC remains.

Considering that my mechanic failed to flip the ON switch when he changed the hybrid battery... I'm guessing he didn't installed the new Hybrid battery properly...or did the wiring right.

Not much youtube videos on changing the Hybrid battery and the ones that are there don't show what plugs in where. or how the wiring goes

Guess I'll try a manual or something.

I've attached pictures and PDF showing DTC's, Status of vehicle when off and Status of vehicle when the engine is running, Also I've notice that the HDS says the IPU fan rotations is at zero? with the engine running.

PS
The brand new battery I bought started to drain out in the time span of working on the car with the HDS. The battery indicator went from green to white :/


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE: So I got a new 12v battery hooked it up and did another scan for codes

NOTE: IMA Amber light (Active)
Check Engine light (Active)
Battery light (Flashes ever 5 sec or so)

I did another scan and there was one new code EPS Permanent DTC 11-02 Control Unit Power Supply Voltage but I was able to clear it with the HDS

However I am unable to clear the P0562 codes.

I checked the backup fuse as well and its not blown but I replaced it with a new one just incase but the P0562 DTC remains.

Considering that my mechanic failed to flip the ON switch when he changed the hybrid battery... I'm guessing he didn't installed the new Hybrid battery properly...or did the wiring right.

Not much youtube videos on changing the Hybrid battery and the ones that are there don't show what plugs in where. or how the wiring goes

Guess I'll try a manual or something.

I've attached pictures and PDF showing DTC's, Status of vehicle when off and Status of vehicle when the engine is running, Also I've notice that the HDS says the IPU fan rotations is at zero? with the engine running.

PS
The brand new battery I bought started to drain out in the time span of working on the car with the HDS. The battery indicator went from green to white :/


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12V battery status while engine is on and off pdf
 

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