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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, second post here but first problem. I cannot remove my key from the ignition. It's stuck in position 0. The car starts fine, battery health is good. It's an OEM Honda key.
I'm trying wiggling the wheel etc.

I HAVE searched for threads but most seem to relate to auto cars not being in park. My car is a UK spec 2010 car.

Any ideas really welcome as I'm concerned about theft and battery drain maybe.

Many thanks.
 

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I have had a Honda side winder key get stuck in a door lock. A tumbler in the lock called it quits and locked the key in. Required full disassembly of the lock core to get the key extracted.

I can not think of any other reasons for the ignition of an MT to hold on to the key.
 

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There is a switch called the neutral safety switch if it fails you cannot remove the key. On a CVT you have park and Neutral where you can remove key and the little slot you can put a key in to manually activate the release. On an MT car I am not sure if there is an interlock to ensure car is in neutral or not. That would be where I would look. Dealer or other mechanic maybe able to look it up for you either in All data or their sources.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am speaking to Honda in Swindon. (Used to be UK build plant) and they are saying new barrel, also likely a 2 week lead time. I'm trying to find an Honda specialist to see if anything can be done.

I'm intending to disconnect the 12v battery to help with battery drain. Are there any issues with this I should know about?
 

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Another member mentioned having to push the key in further and or gently slide it in or out till you can remove it but if the Cylinder(barrel) has failed and you cannot remove the key you need a mechanic, a lock smith or a dealer. It is the one part on the car that gets the most wear it is used every time the car is driven. Hopefully once they get the part they can set it up so you do not have to replace the door lock cylinder for the out side lock.

Do not be surprised if you end up having to get new keys and the outside door lock

Here are the 2 related part numbers they maybe wrong as i used 2011 and this is a US site Genuine OEM Honda Parts and Accessories Online - Honda Parts Now but if correct you should be able to order the right one.
Azure Rectangle Font Parallel Technology

This illustration for parts Identification was above the list of parts
Rectangle Line Font Tire Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fantastic - as above Honda do not do barrels to the car, so it would need a new barrel. This would then not match the door barrel, and would cost overall £619 :( I'm not happy. Trying to find a locksmith or suchlike.
 

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The cylinders can be rekeyed. Honda dealers in the US have a parts kit with all the tumbler sizes. It is not even a complicated process.

What is the used market like where you are? Find a second hand cylinder and have it rekeyed. Or have a locksmith disassemble what you have and replace the bad tumbler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've found a local guy who will replace barrel, provide two new blades for £200 all in. Only downside is I need to retain the old blades for door entry in case of battery failure which is not awful. Thanks for the help. Any issues with 12v battery disconnection? (leaving hybrid battery on)
 

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The exterior cylinder can be re keyed to the new keys simple process by a lock smith. Same guy that does the blades and barrel should be able to do that too for not much.

In the past in the case of a theft recovery the repairing service center replaced all the Cylinders. It is a common process and hopefully that price is for both cylinders and 2 Key blades. Ask if he can order the cylinder for the drivers door too or re-key it

If Under hood battery fails you need the manual key for the door and only having one Keyed lock on the outside has caused issues for some members when the door handle failed.

I've found a local guy who will replace barrel, provide two new blades for £200 all in. Only downside is I need to retain the old blades for door entry in case of battery failure which is not awful. Thanks for the help. Any issues with 12v battery disconnection? (leaving hybrid battery on)
 

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Kind of late here, but this happened to me the other day. I was luckily able to get it out. In my case, excessive wiggling kind of up and down (like a lever) is what helped me get it out. Wiggling sideways/rotating did nothing. I also shifted through all the gears, but this is irrelevant as someone mentioned theres no neutral safety switch. Just throwing it out there in case this anyone in the future is frantically searching for answers through these forums and looking for a hail mary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Kind of late here, but this happened to me the other day. I was luckily able to get it out. In my case, excessive wiggling kind of up and down (like a lever) is what helped me get it out. Wiggling sideways/rotating did nothing. I also shifted through all the gears, but this is irrelevant as someone mentioned theres no neutral safety switch. Just throwing it out there in case this anyone in the future is frantically searching for answers through these forums and looking for a hail mary.
Thanks - that advice was spot on. I managed to remove it using this method. Im still going to get the barrel rebuilt though. In the meantime I will try a bit of lubrication. Graphite spray maybe.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As an update after taking the key out I sprayed some GT85 spray into the lock barrel. I plan to have it rebuilt anyway but this could not do any harm and it was all I had in the garage. It really did work occasionally but then the key would stick again. Not a good result.

I did more research and bought some ptfe 'dry' spray from amazon. A few squirts of this in the barrell and now the key is silky smooth. Ive also decided to use the more cosmetically worn key of my pair as I expect thats worn with the lock better.

Im not going to bother with the rebuild for a while now. The ptfe dry spray is the trick here.
 
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