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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody. I have had a few Honda’s (Accord Type R and Integra DC5 Type R) previously but I’m completely new to Honda CR-Z’s and I am looking for some buying advice. I have read through a few posts already which have been very helpful but I still have a few questions.

The model car I am looking at is this


It has a full service history with the last three services being carried out by Honda and from looking up the MoT checker it failed last year with: Offside Front Upper Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt. The car has since passed the MoT without any failures so I assume that this issue has been sorted. Is this a common fault with the CR-Z?

It is a 2011 model 6 speed manual in the UK, so I am assuming it has Nickel Cadmium Battery pack, is this correct?
What is the average mpg you guys are getting out of the CR-Z?
What is the battery used for? Just acceleration or does it get used at cruising speed as well?
Is there anything obvious and not so obvious I should be looking for before purchase?

Any other help will be greatly appreciated and thank you for looking and taking the time to help.

All the best
Chris
 

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Hey, answering the few things I can.

2011 will definitely be nickel cad, and not Lithium ion, this is standard across any region. The 2013s and up are where lithium hybrid packs got introduced.

The hybrid pack and IMA assist the petrol engine, this can be for zip or for efficiency, the IMA also does the regen. The crz can't run on hybrid pack alone, at any speed or in any state, it has to always have fuel, and the pack is quite small capacity, so it gives only a few zips before running flat if you thrash around in one, but the capacity is more then enough for reasonable driving, it recharges and expends quite seamlessly when you drive under relatively ordinary conditions (ie not lead footed) but if you do empty the ima pack while driving the crz will be forced to recharge it while running solely on petrol and in this state the car will feel very gutless, this is only an issue if you thrash it with many short bursts and don't do any mid distance driving afterward without the pedal to the metal. The IMA battery is so seamless you can pretty much ignore that it's there, under normal driving the BMS keeps everything usually between 3 bars and full. It will use the ima for both acceleration and for cruising to keep efficiency at peak, you just won't see the dash indicators for its usage during cruising unless you have the information cluster set to the energy source screen. (Popular for beginners but the eco leaf screen is better once you are accustom to the car, imo)

One tip I can advise, is expect a crz to chew thorough underhood 12v batteries more frequently than other cars, it has complex electrics and the underhood battery plays a fairly key role in all of the operation, any reduced crank amps in a 12v will exhibit as dash codes and stuff before you ever see a bad battery warning, so if the underhood is over a year or two old swap it sooner than later to prevent extra wear on the hybrid electrics. Another known quirk is during creep assist, extremely light acceleration may jerk, this is a design quirk they all have.

The remainder of your questions need to be answered by someone else, I don't measure my efficiency down to the digits tbh.

Ultimately give one a test drive if you can, they're pretty fun
 

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Hi Qwertylesh.

That’s a fantastic reply and great information on the Battery and IMA. The car is going to be used purely for commuting 80 miles a day on 60mph A-roads and 70mph motorway, so it won’t be getting thrashed too often and I’m fairly light footed on the way to work, I currently get 43mpg out of my Volvo V60 T4. As long as I can get at least 45mpg I’ll be happy.

Cheers again, your help is greatly appreciated and is pushing me closer to making the purchase. The seller has contacted me saying the only fault with the car is one of the reversing sensors is a bit dodgy and may just be dodgy wiring, but that’s something I can look at myself if I buy it.

All the best,
Chris
 

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See this Poll

Forget it is a hybrid except to sometimes make sure you drive it at least 30 minutes (continuous) drive once a month for health of the Hybrid battery. If you get any weird lights on the dash replace the under hood battery or at least have it load tested without the car running before troubleshooting anything else

All of your questions have been asked by every potential member. To answer the next most popular question. No one on this forum has had to replace the Hybrid battery in a CR-Z yet. One member replaced one in an Insight and another member got bad advice from a dealer who wanted to charge him $3k without even diagnosing the issue. That member dumped the car. Some have had to replace the IPU fan others the DC to DC converter and some have replaced both.

A CR-Z needs very little maintenance. usually about once a year or 10K miles. In your market the dash minder for maintenance does not exist .

Backup sensors were never installed in the USA. Backup cameras did not become standard till 2013 and in your market I believe there is no rear wiper.
 

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Cheers Spdbump and apologies for regurgitating the same old questions that have probably been asked a million times. The possible purchasing of this car has come quite suddenly so it was a very quick and not very thorough forum search.

Cheers for the link to the mpg poll and for the maintenance info.

All the best,
Chris.
 

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I probably should add these common questions to to the ABCs thread

One other suggestion get a LI-ION Portable jump starter they are small they are cheap and with the weird issues with the under hood battery you will be glad you have one. The under hood battery will go from working to not working very quickly. You can drive the car for days start the car to go to work park the car at work and walk out to the car and you can't even unlock it with the fob. Never ever run the radio in accessory mode. A CR-Z has no alternator and uses the under hood battery to start the process to start the car with the IMA (Hybrid) battery but you need much less under hood power than you would on any other petrol powered car. But once the power drops below that minimum car is dead no lights no unlock nothing! There is no Gauge on the dash to tell you the under hood battery is unhappy. The dash gauge is for the IMA Battery.

Have I given you Too Much Information yet?
 

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What is the battery used for? Just acceleration or does it get used at cruising speed as well?
the IMA battery is also used to start the gas engine (unless its below 30 degrees F, or something like that) so the car starts up super smoothly. It's always used to start the engine when the auto start/stop function kicks in.
Also, during cruising, the battery will be used if the car feels like it needs a little help, like going up a hill.

so if the underhood is over a year or two old swap it sooner than later to prevent extra wear on the hybrid electrics.
There's actually no need to swap the battery so soon. That's just a wasteful, unnecessary expense. The battery in my 'Z is 3 years old, and I believe that @Spdbump has a 5 year-old battery, also working fine. But yeah, if you start to experience weird electrical problems, the 12v battery is usually the culprit.
 

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See my posting above about a Jump starter then you can be sure at least you can get the car home when the under hood battery eventually fails. Once you get home you can try to charge it (if you left the radio/lights on with car not running etc) or replace at your leisure. Yes mine has had its current under hood battery since 2015 and I keep a jump starter in the car that I recharge every 3 months. Piece of mind!

the IMA battery is also used to start the gas engine (unless its below 30 degrees F, or something like that) so the car starts up super smoothly. It's always used to start the engine when the auto start/stop function kicks in.
Also, during cruising, the battery will be used if the car feels like it needs a little help, like going up a hill.


There's actually no need to swap the battery so soon. That's just a wasteful, unnecessary expense. The battery in my 'Z is 3 years old, and I believe that @Spdbump has a 5 year-old battery, also working fine. But yeah, if you start to experience weird electrical problems, the 12v battery is usually the culprit.
 

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If you look at the how many left website most of the CR-Z models sold in the UK were the 2010 to 2012 Nickel Metal Hydride battery packs only a few hundred of the 2013 revision got sold here (13 to 15).

I bought my 2011 from a Honda dealer almost a year ago to use as a daily driver after 16 years using my DC2 Integra (keeping that too) and can 100% recommend one If you don’t need extra seats. It is very nice to drive especially on a nice twisting road and has the same Honda driver focus and quality. It rare enough to feel like a well kept secret and feels a bit of a privilege to be an owner. Sure it isn’t “fast“ but it isn’t dog slow either in Sport mode. It might not get the most mpg but I’m getting around 46mpg in cold months to 50mpg on my short commute using normal and a bit of Eco mode so mid-50’s should be easily doable on a good run. Tax is just £20 ( Except 2013+ GT models) and insurance and servicing are cheap.

I’d echo the comments to really ignore the fact it is a hybrid and just look for a well looked after sound example. The only thing the car doesn’t like is being stood for a long time and not driven but that’s not good for any car really.
 

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I probably should add these common questions to to the ABCs thread

One other suggestion get a LI-ION Portable jump starter they are small they are cheap and with the weird issues with the under hood battery you will be glad you have one. The under hood battery will go from working to not working very quickly. You can drive the car for days start the car to go to work park the car at work and walk out to the car and you can't even unlock it with the fob. Never ever run the radio in accessory mode. A CR-Z has no alternator and uses the under hood battery to start the process to start the car with the IMA (Hybrid) battery but you need much less under hood power than you would on any other petrol powered car. But once the power drops below that minimum car is dead no lights no unlock nothing! There is no Gauge on the dash to tell you the under hood battery is unhappy. The dash gauge is for the IMA Battery.

Have I given you Too Much Information yet?
Not at all Spdbump. The more info the better. I did have a li ion jump starter but returned it when I found out my Volvo battery was completely dead like 2.5V dead.

I used to work offshore and went away for a six week trip. The car was parked passenger side tight against a fence to stop people opening their doors into my car. The wife kept an eye on the car while I was away and told me the immobiliser and alarm LED isn’t flashing. So I order a jump starter for when I get home. The jump starter is completely charged and off I go to the car. The doors won’t unlock. That’s ok, I have a car manual on my phone, to open the door manually use the key blade to remove a cover on the passenger door and unlock like normal. But I can’t even fit between my car and the fence. So the fence has to come down. A few fence panels removed and I eventually manage to get the door open and the bonnet unlatched. Jump starter used and all is good, I went for a one hour drive and let it run for another hour. I put the jump starter in the boot under the floor lining. Thinking enough time has passed I shut the car down and try restarting.....nothing, car is dead again. So I go to get the jump starter and the boot won’t open as it locks automatically with no power. I know, I’ll put the rear seats down and lift the floor from there...nope. The boot lid covers the flooring so I can’t get to the charger. Meanwhile my wife is setting herself laughing, I’m raging and eventually phoned Volvo. They send out a breakdown service who thankfully replaced the battery free of charge as it was down at 2.5V and shouldn’t be that low after only 10 months. I didn’t tell him the car had sat for 6weeks without moving.

It was an absolute comedy of errors that day much to the amusement of my neighbours and friends.

There's actually no need to swap the battery so soon. That's just a wasteful, unnecessary expense. The battery in my 'Z is 3 years old, and I believe that @Spdbump has a 5 year-old battery, also working fine. But yeah, if you start to experience weird electrical problems, the 12v battery is usually the culprit.
Yeah, I’ll purchase a Liion jump starter and keep that handy then if I ever get any issues I’ll be able to get home and sort a new battery.

If you look at the how many left website most of the CR-Z models sold in the UK were the 2010 to 2012 Nickel Metal Hydride battery packs only a few hundred of the 2013 revision got sold here (13 to 15).

I bought my 2011 from a Honda dealer almost a year ago to use as a daily driver after 16 years using my DC2 Integra (keeping that too) and can 100% recommend one If you don’t need extra seats. It is very nice to drive especially on a nice twisting road and has the same Honda driver focus and quality. It rare enough to feel like a well kept secret and feels a bit of a privilege to be an owner. Sure it isn’t “fast“ but it isn’t dog slow either in Sport mode. It might not get the most mpg but I’m getting around 46mpg in cold months to 50mpg on my short commute using normal and a bit of Eco mode so mid-50’s should be easily doable on a good run. Tax is just £20 ( Except 2013+ GT models) and insurance and servicing are cheap.

I’d echo the comments to really ignore the fact it is a hybrid and just look for a well looked after sound example. The only thing the car doesn’t like is being stood for a long time and not driven but that’s not good for any car really.
Hi DC2TypeR,

Glad to hear you are enjoying the CR-Z. Your post gives me confidence that I am buying a good car for commuting and having a little fun on the twisty roads. Especially as you have bought yours fairly recently.

I was gutted to get rid of my DC5 but a 1 year old daughter and a few faults that started to show as well as someone running into the rear of it made me not love the car as much so ended up trading it in for a V60, Which while it is just as quick in a straight line, it really can’t handle the twisty roads as well.
 

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By modern standards it is a light and dynamic car so there is definitely fun to be had on a nice road but honestly it’s a unique and quirky car that‘s never been boring to drive even just trundling along in traffic. When I stumbled on them again looking at cars with low tax on autotrader I read the press reviews which although they all accepted the build quality and engineering all complained about things like the useless rear seats, not enough speed or not enough economy. When I started reading owners reviews however they praised it.

There are cars that you could choose that have some similarities (mpgs or size etc) but really there isn’t a direct equivalent (even from Honda today) and if what the CR-Z offers fits all your requirements I doubt you would regret trying one.
 

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I like that in the USA we have no rear seats. In my passenger side storage bin is my Jump Starter and a few other items for emergencies this way once I get into the car the jump starter is right there and is warmer than if it was in the hatch and if you have a dead under hood battery you can't open the hatch anyway. You always have the manual key for the drivers side door. Even if I had the rear seats since the Speed bump is a one occupant vehicle 90% of the time and there is no space behind either seat with the seats where I have them a rear seat is worthless to me. The bins,the folding panel and the Cargo cover are much more useful at least to me.

If you drive one and accept the compromises the CR-Z is then I bet you will buy it and love it. You don't see them everywhere like the Priuses which are primarily electric cars with gas motors where CR-Z is the opposite . It is just the perfect fit for 90% of my needs and that is why I bought it and will keep it alive as long as I can afford to.
 

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The CR-Z has its charm. You will love it. Before buying mine, i just wanted a hybrid car that is not boring but i got so much more. You just need to understand how it works and you will be happy with it. My only complain (wich i knew when i bought it) is that i am averaging 25 mpg because i live in the center of Bucharest and the trafic here is like in hell (that is why i wanted a hybrid). A Prius or any other hybrid that drives full electric at low speeds was better for me but i just didn’t like them. I’m spending jalf of my life in my cars and i realy need to enjoy them :)).In weekend days i get 35 mpg in the city(AC always on). I think that this city is the worst scenario for mpg but it’s not your case. So you i think you will be happy with it’s mpg.
 

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2010 - late 2012 cars have a 108v nickel metal hydride battery they also have the light colour interior plastic.

Average MPG (uk) is at least 50-55 when driving gently in light traffic and 42-45 when in heavier traffic and driving more briskly.

The hybrid motor/battery system comes into effect in various situations and loads. It usually only assists the car at a cruise when you are either going up a moderate hill or when the battery is a at full charge level it will assist even at a very light load.

It assists at moderate to full acceleration with a varying amount of assist dependent on how much demand of acceleration there is.

Once the battery hits 3 bars left it stops assisting to prevent over-discharging the battery. in Econ mode the car is determined to use the electric motor more frequently and even when less acceleration is demanded, for better fuel economy.

The low end/low speed acceleration response is surprisingly impressive thanks to the hybrid system. It also allows the car to easily climb hills even in a relatively high gear thanks to the on demand torque.

I find for best economy the engine likes to spin around 1500-1800 rpm when cruising; It's like a diesel in that respect, this is due to the design of the engine itself and makes driving the car easy and quiet.
 

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Hi Future, I'm in North Tyneside and had my 2010 sport for 17 months and love it. I previously had celica GT4 so I halved my horse power!!!
I have now bought a 1971 triumph herald 13/60 convertible with 61 bhp !!!
I might be letting my red crz go to fund the repairs on the 13/80 so pm me any questions and even if you have no interest in mine I can tell you what they are like.
I get over 50mpg when cruising about and can get it down to 38 if I blat it in sport mode!! This is twice the celica plus only 20 a year tax as opposed to over 20 a month!!
My new one is free of course. Like I say, pm me or reply here and we can have a natter.
That one your looking at is a bit overpriced :)
 
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Well yesterday I went and looked at the car. For 9 years old it was in good condition, a few chips in the paint and the car-z stickers on the side had seen better days. The previous owner to who I bought from had sprayed the wheels black, but it was a homemade job using spray cans. These are the only visible faults I could find with the car. I took it for a test drive and was absolutely blown away with the responsiveness of the steering and the go kart like handling and the pull from 30mph onwards. I would even go as far to say that it handles better than my old DC5 due to the size and weight of the CR-Z.

So with all the help and advice from everyone on this thread....I bought it.

After a 4 hour drive home sitting at 70 on cruise control on the motorway and and a very heavy foot along the A701 I was so impressed with the little car. I am over the moon with it after buying it on a whim without an awful lot of consideration for anything else similar.

I’m currently at work and hopefully will give it a quick wash tonight when I get home and next week will hopefully get it booked in for wheel refurbishment and paint correction and possibly remove the CRZ decals from the side of the car.

Pics to follow when it doesn’t resemble a fly graveyard.

A big thanks to everyone in the thread for your help, even those I haven’t responded to yet. You all helped in making my mind up in purchasing this wonderful wee car.
 

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Well yesterday I went and looked at the car. For 9 years old it was in good condition, a few chips in the paint and the car-z stickers on the side had seen better days. The previous owner to who I bought from had sprayed the wheels black, but it was a homemade job using spray cans. These are the only visible faults I could find with the car. I took it for a test drive and was absolutely blown away with the responsiveness of the steering and the go kart like handling and the pull from 30mph onwards. I would even go as far to say that it handles better than my old DC5 due to the size and weight of the CR-Z.

So with all the help and advice from everyone on this thread....I bought it.

After a 4 hour drive home sitting at 70 on cruise control on the motorway and and a very heavy foot along the A701 I was so impressed with the little car. I am over the moon with it after buying it on a whim without an awful lot of consideration for anything else similar.

I’m currently at work and hopefully will give it a quick wash tonight when I get home and next week will hopefully get it booked in for wheel refurbishment and paint correction and possibly remove the CRZ decals from the side of the car.

Pics to follow when it doesn’t resemble a fly graveyard.

A big thanks to everyone in the thread for your help, even those I haven’t responded to yet. You all helped in making my mind up in purchasing this wonderful wee car.
Awesome. Great to hear you are happy with it so far. Hope it provides many years of happy motoring for you.

Any questions, either search on here or make a new post. It's a great forum.
 

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Awesome. Great to hear you are happy with it so far. Hope it provides many years of happy motoring for you.

Any questions, either search on here or make a new post. It's a great forum.
Cheers Klappars. Yeah I’ve had a very positive response from the forum so far with all the help from yourself and others. If I need answers I’ll have a wee search, Spd gave me a good link to common questions and inquiries. Anything I can’t find I’ll post.
 
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