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Anyone have an issue with the hatch lever not working. Its getting rather cold around here in New England and i figured maybe it was froze... But its been 2 days and I cant open the hatch besides crawling inside and manually pushing it open.
 

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Mine was frozen because water got in to the button. Had to remove the release button, use the heat gun to get all the water/ice out and used wd40 to prevent water from getting inside and has been working great since
 

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I hope this is frozen and not an issue, but 2 days and still frozen? I guess if the weathers been cold enough for it to stay frozen like that I'd understand. Wish you best luck, if after couple more days or until you can rule out frozen completely I'd say take it in.
 

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Mine was frozen because water got in to the button. Had to remove the release button, use the heat gun to get all the water/ice out and used wd40 to prevent water from getting inside and has been working great since
Nothing like crawling into my hatch to get my snow brush... Anyways, this morning I gave it a try at work. Worked perfectly ! lol. Guess it really was frozen. Thank God!
 

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Mine was frozen because water got in to the button. Had to remove the release button, use the heat gun to get all the water/ice out and used wd40 to prevent water from getting inside and has been working great since
Reviving a dead thread... seems like my rear hatch button got water into it and froze as well. Anyone know what part of the FSM seems to talk about removal over the button? I think I'm going to pull it today and defrost it and see why it might have gotten water into it to begin with. Any tips greatly appreciated!!

EDIT: found this:


Some good pics, but anyone still know the FSM section? Since this didn't happen last yea, I'm almost thinking the undercoat this year may have gotten to it. They did a kinda crap job with this with my undercoating. Must have had some new guy doing it... dunno! I just wanna pull this thing and see whats going on, dry it out, etc.
 

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After about 45 min, I got the button working more consistently.

When I got it out, it was drowning in krown. I grabbed some napkins and started cleaning up the area, scooping and wiping... Wondering what that green thing was lol

Once I cleared out most of the krown, I tried the button and it didn't work. Looked around and pressed the button for a bit until some white, pus looking fluid started seeping out from the wire area. It came out whenever I pressed the button so I milked it out. (you can see the air bubble from when I squeezed the button)

So much came out... I would say probably 10 - 20 mL came out from milking the button.

As you can see from the amount of napkins/paper towels used... It was an awful lot of goop that was on it, too.

Got some canned air and tried to clean up around the wire as much as possible (can ran out before I could get 100%), sealed it up, called it a day.

So, what happened was the fluid made the button stick to the switch; air couldn't come in to separate the rubber. Now it works more consistently and got a new, more "grippy" surface. :p



Edit: jeez my grammar and structure is terrible now that I read it over... Lol sorry
So did your switch fill up through where that wiring harness goes in?

Wonder what those 2 screws are for? Pulling switch apart?

That was from post #16 here.. if anyone wanted to see the pics since they didn't repost here:


I think mine may be doing this, with either fluid film, or water. I need to pull it and check. Any pointers?
 

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Reviving a dead thread... seems like my rear hatch button got water into it and froze as well. Anyone know what part of the FSM seems to talk about removal over the button? I think I'm going to pull it today and defrost it and see why it might have gotten water into it to begin with. Any tips greatly appreciated!!

EDIT: found this:


Some good pics, but anyone still know the FSM section? Since this didn't happen last yea, I'm almost thinking the undercoat this year may have gotten to it. They did a kinda crap job with this with my undercoating. Must have had some new guy doing it... dunno! I just wanna pull this thing and see whats going on, dry it out, etc.
I think you want page 22-180 in the service manual.
 

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I think you want page 22-180 in the service manual.
Thank you!! Exactly what i was looking for!

Keyless / Power door locks / Security system!! --- This is the section it was under. Totally didn't see that when I was looking.

Gonna pull it apart as soon as possible. I wonder if its possible to break it while its full if you use it?

For anyone else:

 

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It slips out of its pocket quite easily. I'm thinking the water build up and freezing, might be due to the little black plugs being clogged up (they are not a tight fit, and should actually wiggle around a bit in their holes.)
 

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It slips out of its pocket quite easily. I'm thinking the water build up and freezing, might be due to the little black plugs being clogged up (they are not a tight fit, and should actually wiggle around a bit in their holes.)
Which black plugs?

Also, what you mean by it slips out of its pocket easy. You mean the switch comes out of that hole easy? Do you need to remove the trim panel first?

I wonder how I should clean the inside of the switch out? WD40? Any ideas? I will have to see how the switch even works, as I'm not sure I understand it.
 

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Which black plugs?

Also, what you mean by it slips out of its pocket easy. You mean the switch comes out of that hole easy? Do you need to remove the trim panel first?

I wonder how I should clean the inside of the switch out? WD40? Any ideas? I will have to see how the switch even works, as I'm not sure I understand it.
I have three pics in that link you posted to the other thread that will show you the black plugs on either side of the switch, which is simply a unit button/switch which you pry out of the frame of the hatch door. No need to remove the interior trim panel, if we are talking about the same thing. (I am NOT talking about the mechanical latch itself, but the electronic switch that moves the latch.) I wouldn't use WD40 because that may interact negatively with the rubber and actually create a film that dirt and debris will stick to and accumulate. Clean with a tooth brush and alcohol or something similar, and then shoot it up with some electronic cleaner spray....

Treat the area like the weep holes in the bottom of your driver and passenger doors--keep them clean and dry, and clear out any rustproofing goo that may be blocking the passages/holes (so they can "weep.") :)

 

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I have three pics in that link you posted to the other thread that will show you the black plugs on either side of the switch, which is simply a unit button/switch which you pry out of the frame of the hatch door. No need to remove the interior trim panel, if we are talking about the same thing. (I am NOT talking about the mechanical latch itself, but the electronic switch that moves the latch.) I wouldn't use WD40 because that may interact negatively with the rubber and actually create a film that dirt and debris will stick to and accumulate. Clean with a tooth brush and alcohol or something similar, and then shoot it up with some electronic cleaner spray....

Treat the area like the weep holes in the bottom of your driver and passenger doors--keep them clean and dry, and clear out any rustproofing goo that may be blocking the passages/holes (so they can "weep.") :)

Thanks!!

I haven't actually looked at it yet, as the weather has been terrible.

I wonder how water gets into this switch? Because the weep holes arent' working like you said?

I will need to check those and make sure they can drain properly if so.

Will I need to do anything with the switch itself? Almost feels like there is water when pressing on it, or the 'ball' inside it, whatever it is.. feels like its in something.
 

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So, just an update. I pulled the switch today. In order to do this, you need to pull the surrounding plastic area. This entails pulling the little handle pocket on the door, then the plastic trim piece. Not too hard, even in the 15 degree weather we are currently having. I used plastic pry tools.

Once I pulled the plastic, I disconnected the switch cable and pulled the switch itself. It had quite a bit of water in it.

I actually pulled the switch apart which isn't too hard. The little rubber boot itself if a bit of a PITA to put back on right, but if you go around the circle slowly, you can re-seat it properly.

Dried everything out with a hair dryer, and hope this will fix the issue. Its working, but, it doesn't seem to work until I wait overnight and its freezing cold.

It seems like the issue with the switch itself is where the cable goes into the housing area. Water runs down the cable and then gets into the rubber boot. Kinda a bad design if you ask me. I contemplated siliconing the area where the wiring enters, but instead went for a more ghetto fix of stuffing paper towels around the housing area. If water gets in now, the towels should absorb it before it gets into the rubber boot itself.

A note about pulling the rubber boot section off. It slides to come off, and when putting it back on, you push one end in, and slide it to re-mount it. Not hard at all!

Now... pics:










 

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Wont that paper towel just get wet can could go mouldy? I'm surprised you didnt do the silicon as that would be a perfect way to fix water tight issues
Yeah, I thought about that. But.. mold won't make the button not work!!

LOL. Like I said, this is the most ghetto of ghetto fixes. But, it was freezing out, and its just a test. Next weekend when I have some silicone I will pull it again and do it right. I just wanted the damn thing working.

As a side note, it was freezing cold again last night, all night, and no issues with the button this morning. So.. thinking its fixed! Must have just been water getting into the switch or rubbet boot itself that caused the problem. Pretty easy fix.

If / when I silicone it.. i think I will just silicone the area where the wires go near the boot. Not sure it would really fix the problem, but may? Seems like the problem might happen regardless of what happens. I don't want to make pulling the switch apart any harder than it was. If it wasn't for the stupid rubber boot it probably would be a 10 minute job!! But, putting the boot back on took the longest.
 

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....If / when I silicone it.. i think I will just silicone the area where the wires go near the boot. Not sure it would really fix the problem, but may? Seems like the problem might happen regardless of what happens. I don't want to make pulling the switch apart any harder than it was. If it wasn't for the stupid rubber boot it probably would be a 10 minute job!! But, putting the boot back on took the longest.
Instead of silicone, try a coat of dielectric grease around the rubber boot. It will still be flexible and water repellent.
 

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Instead of silicone, try a coat of dielectric grease around the rubber boot. It will still be flexible and water repellent.
Nice!! Yeah I might try that.

See, the big issue here isn't exactly the boot itself. The wires don't run under the boot, but I think water runs down from the wires and fill the dish area up with water, then it eventually goes into the boot through the 2 holes on the side. I'm not really sure honestly.. its a weird design.

I see that the wires has a zip tie around the heat shrink looking tubing that runs around the wires. Maybe they did this to try and negate this problem? I'm not sure. I do think that the wires are where the water is running in from. There appears to be a little 'seal' around the edge of the entire plastic of the button itself.. maybe this is supposed to seal against the wires, but doesn't really do a good job.

Hopefully emptying this out will have fixed the problem permanently. I guess I should have checked the drain holes on the hatch itself too. Maybe next weekend!! Its just so cold out right now, I tried to make this a quick fix. Hard to work in 10 degree windy weather.
 
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