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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not that I'm close to the 30k service yet but I was wondering if this is something my buddy and I can do when we change the oil in the my car. Also, is there a compatable fluid to use instead of the Honda fluid? Not that I don't trust what Honda has but just curious,thanks:cool:
 

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Regular fluid changes in the trans usually is a good thing. I'm just over 10k myself and I've been noticing some excessive effort while shifting on colder days.

I have always used BG Synchroshift II. I will make time to do it soon and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I take it the Redline MTX is compatable, so I'm assuming Mobil 1 has something as well, I'm pretty big on Mobil 1. Now as far as it being noticable when its cold, well, that's pretty normal right, the viscosity isn't going to be the same when its 20 degrees compared to 70, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

The DIY wll be pretty helpful for sure as I'm someone who believes in changing out the fluid a bit earlier because its cheap insurance for sure!
 

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I've changed the transmission fluid on my 6MT. It's a really simple process, I'm surprised there's not already a DIY.

For those that want to try without a DIY, it's rather simple:
Follow the normal oil-change procedure for removing all the plastic under-panels. There are two bolts that need to be removed, the lower drain bolt, and the upper fill-hole bolt (buy spare crush-washers for both from dealership). Drain the fluid from the lower drain bolt, you can also remove the fill-bolt at that time. Then you re-fill (I use a funnel with a cheap vacuum hose attached or something similar to reach down to the fill-hole from above the engine). Once you're pouring, and the new fluid begins to come out of the fill-hole, wait for it to stop spilling out the hole, and re-install the fill-hole bolt. The fluid level should be level with the opening of the fill-hole bolt, so once the fluid stops coming out the fill-hole it's filled properly. There's no specific amount required, it's fill-'till-it-spills. Best to do it on a level a surface as possible (I jack up the rear of the car to match the front's jacked-up height, or just put the car on the ground to fill).

Also, I would stick with Honda MTF. I don't use anything but Honda transmission fluid in manual transmission Hondas.

I was going to link a diagram to help, but it doesn't show the locations of the drain and fill bolts well-enough to see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^^^thank you from all of us^^^

I know you said there's not a certain amount but how many quarts did you buy and what was left over?
 

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Also, I would stick with Honda MTF. I don't use anything but Honda transmission fluid in manual transmission Hondas.
Agree with that. Honda makes their own transmission. Their own TF is good enough. Especially on Honda's auto-trans and CVT, Honda TF is the only way to go.
 

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^^^thank you from all of us^^^

I know you said there's not a certain amount but how many quarts did you buy and what was left over?
I bought 2 quarts, and approximately 0.5 quart was left over.

The Helm manual states:
Fluid Capacity (6MT)
1.4L (1.5 US qt) at fluid change
1.6L (1.7 US qt) at overhaul (disassembly)

I could take a photo of the page in the Helm, it's literally one-side of one-page long instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^^^Big thanks^^^

Did you notice the fluid being dark when you changed it out and how long did you wait to change it out? Also, step #10....what did you have to do there? Did you need a special tool for that or are they just talking about going into the cars OBC and doing the reset?
 

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^^^Big thanks^^^

Did you notice the fluid being dark when you changed it out and how long did you wait to change it out? Also, step #10....what did you have to do there? Did you need a special tool for that or are they just talking about going into the cars OBC and doing the reset?
The fluid was darker than the brand new fluid, but it didn't look too bad, I changed it around 18K miles (yes, a bit early).

Step #10 is just the service department way of resetting the maintenance minder computer. You can do it without the computer (no special tools required). The reset procedure is the same as the process listed in the owner's manual for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well once my buddy and I start doing the oil changes every 10k I'll probably just change out the fluid too, cheap insurance. I do the same thing on my g/f's Mazda 6 too, but she's got an automatic but once again, cheap insurance ($21 in Mazda ATF). Glad your changing it out sooner, I see alot of us doing just that!
 

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It's good info that Redline MTL (Synthetic Gear Oil) works with the CR-Z, I'd used it with no problem with my 5MT Honda, but switched to the Honda MTF in my Acura 6MT because of user complaints of syncro problems with the RSX when using synthetic gear oil (too slippery); synthetic 'gear oil' use need to be evaluated by brand / blend (not group) due to low friction being contrary to proper syncro operation. I'll stick with the Honda MTL, probably a synthetic blend, for a bit, before trying the Redline MTL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll be buying the 2 quarts of Honda stuff when the time comes for sure!
 

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My car is now over 20,000 miles and the transmission is now showing the occasional notchiness into 1st gear especially when cold. I'll need to get the Honda MTL fluid and new drain and filler bolt washers; as usual, there's a chance that the parts person will give me the wrong size filler bolt crush washer, in which case I'll have to reuse the old washer. I do the initial draining with the oil as warm as possible on jackstands, but I do final draining with the floor hydraulic jack. Also, I need to put the car backwards into the garage, with the rear wheels set on 2x12 lumber, because I'll fill the new gear oil with the car 'levelled' with a 30" bubble level below the door sill, I do it because the filler hole is offset to one-side of the gear case, and I use the overfill and run-out method to get the 1.7 quarts of transmission fluid in. Hopefully, the 1-1/2" extra height of the 2x12's and the drainage slope of the garage floor will give me room to work under the CR-Z. Of course I'll be under the car with only the floor jack during the filling process. I've survived this under Honda's and Acura's over many years, but the oem CR-Z is even lower than the oem RSX (did not use 2x12's under rear wheels). Finally, you can fill the MTL fluid with a funnel / vinyl tube assembly (discard / cut off the end spout cap) sold at AutoParts. Of course I'll torque all my bolts to specification.
 
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