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Follow-up to my previous posting about an A/C issue. Fixed one issue, here's another.

470 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  JamesonLA
Here was my first post about this issue
FIXED!
Edit: I am just dumb, after having been inoperative for months if not a year or more, the ac was just low on refrigerant and was (rightfully) choosing not to engage. After fixing the coil I only had to refill the refrigerant 😅 It engages now but I'm having alternative issues I won't bother y'all with since I only posted to figure out the clutch not engaging issue. Thanks guys


I finally got to repairing my A/C compressor. Replacement was going to be costly for both time and money, and I am glad I went the repairing route instead. In summary, YES, the coil was bad.

How do I know this? Well - the proof was in my original post the whole time. When I had tested the OG coil's resistance and only got "OL" I was thrown off since instead of getting a result 'out of spec', I was essentially receiving no result at all.
Recently, I purchased a compatible A/C Clutch Kit linked here and I tested it's resistance, which provided a result and AND was within spec. This meant that yes, no doubt about it, my OG coil was bad. So I went through the not-as-bad-as-I-thought process of replacing the coil - and hell - since I had it, the entire kit. New a/c clutch plate and all.
The only difference is the pulley has 5 grooves instead of 4, which is a non-issue as far as I can tell and as far as the seller describes.

Now, when I follow step 10 (img below), THE A/C CLUTCH CLICKS. I was hoping my issue was fixed and the A/C works now, but no, unfortunately not.
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Number


Now this is where I'm stuck. I haven't seen the car choose to engage the clutch even though the clutch is now fully capable of doing so. The car just simply is not sending the signal to the clutch. The relay is fine - I know this since I tested it. Service manual image will be below for your purposes. This issue is something between the car and the relay. I know this since when I use the jumper cable, the A/C compressor engages. No further testing needed. (I also know this since months ago, I tested all the wires TO the clutch. Trust me, the A/C compressor is a non-issue now.)


So my question for you experts is this: What is likely to be the cause of my current issue? I have the relevant pages of the service manual printed out, and unfortunately, I do not own an HDS. Because of that I cannot proceed further with DIY diagnosis. Unless anyone has recommendations for an HDS that's not $2000 :LOL:

Here are some of the pages:
Font Parallel Number Document
Font Rectangle Line Material property Parallel
Font Parallel Rectangle Number Document


Only able to do steps that are non-HDS focused.
Step 1: Fuses are OK.
Step 8: Relay is OK.
Step 9: Battery voltage OK.
Step 10: Clutch is OK.
Step 13: Battery voltage OK.
Step 17: Unable to proceed.

Thank you for reading.


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Test the low pressure sensor. I think there’s a description in the manual how to do it…
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Test the low pressure sensor. I think there’s a description in the manual how to do it…
Y'know what, the A/C has been inoperative for months if not a year or more at this point. I can't believe I didn't think to just recharge it before all else lol
I'm gonna check out that low pressure sensor and the actual level of refrigerant in the system - thanks!

Occam's razor in full effect here
Test the low pressure sensor. I think there’s a description in the manual how to do it…
I... feel incredibly dumb. After a recharge it works just fine! Thanks
I read through your whole first post getting ready to write up a full diagnostic procedure only to see at the very end you fixed it lol


For everyone else: There is a pressure sensor and without proper refrigerant levels, the AC will either not kick on or will not stay on. Also you want to vacuum the system before /during refill. Not only to check for leaks but to get as much moisture out of the system as possible as moisture will destroy the system and be a much more labor intensive and expensive repair

Glad you got it fixed
I read through your whole first post getting ready to write up a full diagnostic procedure only to see at the very end you fixed it lol


For everyone else: There is a pressure sensor and without proper refrigerant levels, the AC will either not kick on or will not stay on. Also you want to vacuum the system before /during refill. Not only to check for leaks but to get as much moisture out of the system as possible as moisture will destroy the system and be a much more labor intensive and expensive repair

Glad you got it fixed
Aw man I’m sorry

Thanks for the extra info for the future browsers! If there was moisture in the system, how could I tell? I can hear a quiet bubbling(?) noise from the compressor after I’m done driving so I suppose that may be something of concern.
Aw man I’m sorry

Thanks for the extra info for the future browsers! If there was moisture in the system, how could I tell? I can hear a quiet bubbling(?) noise from the compressor after I’m done driving so I suppose that may be something of concern.

if there was moisture in the system your system would fail one day (in the future) and be corroded and rusted out and you'd have to change the condenser, compressor, the lines, the evaporator, the dryer, and whatever else is involved lol. I don't think the noise is an indicator but maybe not be the right amount of pressure and/or pag oil.

There's some wiggle room with the oil as it's kind of impossible to measure unless absolutely everything is brand new and dry. But any time refrigerant is low or especially empty, it indicates a leak. The proper refill procedure (and testing for fixes) is to pull a vacuum on the system, stop the pump, let it sit for an extended period of time and see if the gauge shows any vacuum was lost. If not, you run the vacuum for an even longer period of time to pull all moisture possible, then use the vacuum in conjunction with the gauges to refill the system with refrigerant.
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