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Hi guys, just joined as this is the first time my CRZ has ever had a problem, and it's very much a case of COVID-19 Sod's Law.
Like I said, it's always been 100% reliable and just had major service / MOT a little over a month ago. I also do very little mileage as I work from home. On the first day of 'lockdown' (in which, of course, the dealership I use is closed) I wanted to get some necessary stuff from the supermarket. Turned the key and went to press the button, but nothing happened. Dashboard was cycling 'check system' warnings for ABS, Traction, and the passenger airbag light showed non-functioning. Obviously 3 major mechanical faults are not just going to happen together, and certainly not overnight when the car's not in use. I've emailed the dealership but of course no idea when they'll be able to respond.
Am I right in guessing it's just an ECU error that will be a quick inexpensive fix once they're able to address it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Deano
 

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Beat me to it. Car not being driven enough and under hood battery has now failed. Charge battery or replace prior to troubleshooting anything else.
Hi guys, just joined as this is the first time my CRZ has ever had a problem, and it's very much a case of COVID-19 Sod's Law.
Like I said, it's always been 100% reliable and just had major service / MOT a little over a month ago. I also do very little mileage as I work from home. On the first day of 'lockdown' (in which, of course, the dealership I use is closed) I wanted to get some necessary stuff from the supermarket. Turned the key and went to press the button, but nothing happened. Dashboard was cycling 'check system' warnings for ABS, Traction, and the passenger airbag light showed non-functioning. Obviously 3 major mechanical faults are not just going to happen together, and certainly not overnight when the car's not in use. I've emailed the dealership but of course no idea when they'll be able to respond.
Am I right in guessing it's just an ECU error that will be a quick inexpensive fix once they're able to address it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Deano
 

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As the guys said, low 12v battery. Very common. Trickle charge it and do more miles!
 

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Although my other car is on an optimate I’ve not needed to worry about the CR-Z 12V battery before as the longest time between drives was a few days and I made a point of driving it for a good run every couple of weeks as well as my commuting.

When the lockdown was announced I was about to order another optimate for it but apart from jump starting instructions the manual says charge the 12V out of the car??
I take it this isn’t really necessary and an optimate connected whilst in situ would not damage it?
 

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No wayyyyy do you need to take it out!!! I charge mine every couple of weeks, it is on charge in situ as I type..
Keep safe and do not worry.
ATB
 

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Is that on an optimate or similar 12V charger/conditioner Jeff?

... and with just the positive connected to the battery - the negative to the ground on the other side of the engine bay as shown in the jump starting section of the owners manual?
 

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No mate, I just whap the clips on the battery terminals. Never been a problem.
The only thing different with the Z is there is no alternator and the big bigger in the back is meant to trickle feed the 12v via a DC/DC converter. However it needs to be running and for quite a while, say 20 mins at least every few days or an hour or two every other week.
I have read there is a trick if your stuck and it is to just put key in lock, no turning (you will notice open door alarms etc) and sit for 5-10 mins and allegedly the 110 will trickle the 12v and give enough to get the ECU working so you can start it.
Not tried that as I carry a small booster which has solved my problem.when it occurs.
Enjoy.
 
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