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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm sharing this information with you all. I am currently experiencing this issue for a very long time and haven't gotten back to this in a while, probably 6 months. But I'm looking for insight and opinions on how to perform these steps. I have a multimeter and gloves so I am prepared to get into this. Let me know where to start and check at each point, where to ground and test for positive voltage etc... Also avoiding the dealer as they just want my money and suggested replacing all the IMA parts. Please take a look with these photos...
 

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This is a complicated procedure.
What year is your car? Type of IMA battery?
Has it ever been flooded?
Does it leak water into the boot?
Is it damp inside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is a complicated procedure.
What year is your car? Type of IMA battery?
Has it ever been flooded?
Does it leak water into the boot?
Is it damp inside?
The model year is a 2015 lithium battery pack. And yes there are signs of moisture at the very bottom below the plastic tray. But no damp stuff
 

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Open up the IMA area and put a proper electric dehumidifier with fan etc inside the car for a couple of days.
Let it draw out moisture. Then reset IMA and see if code comes back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Open up the IMA area and put a proper electric dehumidifier with fan etc inside the car for a couple of days.
Let it draw out moisture. Then reset IMA and see if code comes back.
What way do I reset IMA? unplug and plug back in? And no need for the fan thing. It's been in a garage since I stopped using it for months. Completely dry, just signs of spots.
 

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Do you have a clone HDS or equivalent as required to see what resistance the system (MCM) is detecting.

A very low value would indicate severe leakage.
A value just under the threshold much less so.

You can reset IMA by disconnecting 12v battery for 20 seconds.

You need someone with electronic skills before you start fiddling around inside the IMA pack.
You basically have to test each item that might leak voltage from the HV side to the LV 12V side and eliminate it, then move onto the next item in the HV chain and repeat.

It's also possible for this to be an MCM detection problem and the issue in fact does not exist but is being falsely reported.

Have you checked the drain under the IMA motor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have a clone HDS or equivalent as required to see what resistance the system (MCM) is detecting.

A very low value would indicate severe leakage.
A value just under the threshold much less so.

You can reset IMA by disconnecting 12v battery for 20 seconds.

You need someone with electronic skills before you start fiddling around inside the IMA pack.
You basically have to test each item that might leak voltage from the HV side to the LV 12V side and eliminate it, then move onto the next item in the HV chain and repeat.

It's also possible for this to be an MCM detection problem and the issue in fact does not exist but is being falsely reported.

Have you checked the drain under the IMA motor?

If I get the tool and check myself, that should tell me the source of problem?

And the drain looks fine. But possibly water came up through it from the last severe storm here in NJ
 

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If I get the tool and check myself, that should tell me the source of problem?

And the drain looks fine. But possibly water came up through it from the last severe storm here in NJ
The HDS tool will help you diagnose it.

So has the car been flooded?
How deep did the water get?
Did you undo/remove the drain and ensure there is no water in the motor space?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The HDS tool will help you diagnose it.

So has the car been flooded?
How deep did the water get?
Did you undo/remove the drain and ensure there is no water in the motor space?
None of that. It's all been checked. Just need to start from the error I received and find the source that's causing it. So I want to fast forward and ask anyone on where to start and test without the HDS.
 

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As I have explained you will have to craftily test and eliminate each item in the IMA chain.
The steps shown in the pics you posted have the official procedure, can you not follow that?

Note. You need a proper insulation resistance tester that applies a test voltage (250V) to things as well as a cheap multimeter.
When they mention '250V insulated resistance tester' they do not mean a cheap passive multimeter.
They mean a device which applies 250V to the parts being tested, something like this.

Electrical Insulation Tester

Trying to do this without an HDS could also be immensely frustrating.

But......

If it was me I would open up the IMA compartment and disconnect the motor phase leads (step 24 in pics) or unplug the IMA motor at the front (big orange connector).

Clear the IMA codes with 12v battery disconnect.
Turn on the car but do not try and start it.

Do you still get a P0AA6 Y/N (Note you may well get other codes instead.)

Y problem is in the back in IMA gubbins.

N problem is in the IMA motor or the orange wires running front to back. (Check resistance of motor phase wires to ground)

If I was a betting man and based on your info supplied I would opt for.

1) Damp/flood issue.
2) Failed DC-DC
3) Failed IPU

But without an HDS plugged in we don't know what value resistance the car is seeing, from a hard serious short, to a value just under the fail 233k threshold.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As I have explained you will have to craftily test and eliminate each item in the IMA chain.
The steps shown in the pics you posted have the official procedure, can you not follow that?

Note. You need a proper insulation resistance tester that applies a test voltage (250V) to things as well as a cheap multimeter.
When they mention '250V insulated resistance tester' they do not mean a cheap passive multimeter.
They mean a device which applies 250V to the parts being tested, something like this.

Electrical Insulation Tester

Trying to do this without an HDS could also be immensely frustrating.

But......

If it was me I would open up the IMA compartment and disconnect the motor phase leads (step 24 in pics) or unplug the IMA motor at the front (big orange connector).

Clear the IMA codes with 12v battery disconnect.
Turn on the car but do not try and start it.

Do you still get a P0AA6 Y/N (Note you may well get other codes instead.)

Y problem is in the back in IMA gubbins.

N problem is in the IMA motor or the orange wires running front to back. (Check resistance of motor phase wires to ground)

If I was a betting man and based on your info supplied I would opt for.

1) Damp/flood issue.
2) Failed DC-DC
3) Failed IPU

But without an HDS plugged in we don't know what value resistance the car is seeing, from a hard serious short, to a value just under the fail 233k threshold.

Good luck.
Okay I'll get back to you. I'm trying to do this all alone. Everyone trying to charge me a ton just to take my car in. They see supercharger and sick body kit, they think I'm loaded with money.
 
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