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Got my new scan tool yesterday and for $35 its awesome. I can pull codes and clear a long with monitor many different pids and record them or just view them in real time well worth the money...
however when I got in my car yesterday to leave work the emissions light randomly turned off... I still had 2 hard faults saved in the computer one for engine to lean and the other was for a evap leak(very small) it said...
I cleared them and hope they don't come back but Im gonna get the mass clean kit this weekend anyways just to try that
 

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Haven't posted here in forever but wanted to jump in on this since I've had a similar issue and the forum once again helped me figure it out.

I drive a 2011 EX with AT and have a Takeda Momentum intake. I've had the intake for several years now (AFE test fit the automatic tube on my ride way back when) and never had any problems. Got the emissions light last night after driving stupid hard for the last two weeks - figured something just came loose with all the driving and the auto stopping. Pulled everything apart and put it back nice and tight and it still was throwing the cel.

Checked this topic and discovered the culprit was a dirty MAF sensor. I didn't even know you needed to clean it prior to reading this. . . whoops!
Took the sensor out of the tube (it's two phillips screws on the version of the momentum I have) and checked it out. It's basically a small rectangle with an opening on the side that faces the filter. Inside the opening are a couple of tiny delicate wires - do not touch these as they are what make the sensor work and they can break easily setting you back $100+ for a new sensor. The wires send a voltage across them and as air flows in the sensor senses the temperature change and regulates the fuel air mixture accordingly. If they get dirty they will throw a code - I think mine was from over oiling my filter a couple of weeks ago. Anyway just spray the cleaner ($8.95 at autozone) in the opening with the wires about ten times, let it dry, and reinstall. Didn't need to reset the computer on mine once the MAF was clean - everything was all gravy.

I had also noticed a significant drop in MPG the last couple of weeks so I'm thinking I'll start cleaning the sensor when I clean the filter just to keep things clean and efficient.
 

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sorry to bring an old thread up but i ran into the same issue today!

Was driving to the diner to get breakfast and the check emissions light came on around 10 am. Was not able to switch any modes neither.

Brought my 2011 base CR-Z to AutoZone and had them scan it with the reader. Got the code P0137.

I currently had my Takeda for about 6 -7 months now with no problem. Recently installed the t1r test pipe and i was thinking this could of been it.

Also had a recent oil change at the dealership about a week ago. ( need to clean my filter since i haven't cleaned it since i had my intake changed.

Around 3 pm i went to the movies and when i turned my car on the light was gone and i was able to change modes again. Tomorrow i will commute to work and put 66 miles roundtrip and will see if the light comes back.

The code AutoZone gave me said:

Code: P0137
Definition: Secondary HO2S12 (heated oxygen sensor) b Tank 1.
Sensor 2) Low Voltage

Probable Cause:
aa1: Poor Electrical connection
aa2: Air leak near Ho2S (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
aa3: Lean A/F ration
aa4: Faulty HO2S12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

lets see if it turns back on, will see you guys posted.

If anyone has found a fix for this problem please share it with us!
Hope this helps.
 

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It could be the Post cat/ downstream O2 sensor. All our Hondas and Acuras had this recurring issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2011 CRZ EX- w/ Takeda system

Hoping for a little help as I am having this same issue. I had the Takeda intake on my car for about 2 months, but now have run into this reoccuring check emissions system warning. It's pulling up code P0171 fuel system too lean. I just took the MAF sensor out hosed it down and let it dry before reinstalling.

After I checked the code at Auto zone and disconnected the machine the code seemingly went away. But after about 20 miles it came back on.

I'm starting to go crazy with this issue and might just rip the whole thing off and go back to stock or switch to a different brand intake.

Should I try cleaning the sensor again? Everything seems tight and snug.
 

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Hoping for a little help as I am having this same issue. I had the Takeda intake on my car for about 2 months, but now have run into this reoccuring check emissions system warning. It's pulling up code P0171 fuel system too lean. I just took the MAF sensor out hosed it down and let it dry before reinstalling.

After I checked the code at Auto zone and disconnected the machine the code seemingly went away. But after about 20 miles it came back on.

I'm starting to go crazy with this issue and might just rip the whole thing off and go back to stock or switch to a different brand intake.

Should I try cleaning the sensor again? Everything seems tight and snug.
If you think the sensor is clean, it might be getting a coat of oil on it, if your filter is the type you clean and oil--maybe you should re-clean the filter and apply a much lighter coat of oil on it.

Another thing to do, is disconnect the battery (after you've verified the filter isn't soaked with too much oil,) and wait 10-15 minutes. That will clear any codes and reset the ECU for the Idle Control Learn & CKP Pattern learn procedure described in this page of my build thread:

click here for Idle Control Learn & CKP Pattern learn procedure

I had the Takeda intake installed on my CR-Z for 1-1/2 years, but never had any problems. Another thing to think about, is it might be something unrelated to the Takeda installation--something else you installed/changed, or just a coincidence that it started acting up at the same time of getting the Takeda. Good luck, and I hope you get it figured out.

Uhhhh, I just noticed you said you "hosed it down," to clean the MAF sensor, so I'm wondering if you cleaned it properly, so just in case, here's a video on how to clean it.

 

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Have you cleaned the connector for the MAF sensor and added dielectric grease or contact enhancer to it? It may be a damaged connection or wiring since you have taken it apart and put it back together a few times. You may have gotten some water in the connection too when you hosed it off. If that is the fact you can use WD-40 to drive the water out of it. You may even want to make sure it is secured.:smile2:

You probably have done all of the above but it sounds like an electrical gremlin and the above is what I would do. Good luck!
 

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Hey guys - spoke (above) too soon. Light came back on today, but was off for about 2 weeks after cleaning MAF sensor.
Going to try cleaning it again tonight, and then stop getting gas at the usual location. Will report back with any findings.
 

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Hey guys - spoke (above) too soon. Light came back on today, but was off for about 2 weeks after cleaning MAF sensor.
Going to try cleaning it again tonight, and then stop getting gas at the usual location. Will report back with any findings.
Did you ever fix the problem?
 

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Also check gas cap make sure it clicks 3 times and look at the seal on the gas cap they do wear out and will cause an emissions light.
 
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