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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my 2015 to pacific honda to get a new key fob. They where unable to do it because my computer went bad???? I have never had an electrical issue or a burning smell come from my car. Now I have to Jumpstart my car and worry about a burning smell or catching on fire. I'm wondering if anyone else has this issue. I really think the dealer screwed up something while trying to program my key fob. But I don't know what that would entail. I'm also told by the dealer that I am 100% responsible to pay for diagnostics and repair. I need help, legal, and advice. Anyone?

I was told by service advisor to drive home and don't use my car until it gets fixed. I'm upset. They did something and tried to blame the accessory 12v phone charger because my charger was plugged in when they where attempting to program the key fob. I was also told that the key fob they used malfunctioned.
 

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Raise the issue with US Honda.

You took the car in working and now it is broken.

They should fix it FOC.

Post decent pics of this phone charger thing they are blaming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Raise the issue with US Honda.

You took the car in working and now it is broken.

They should fix it FOC.

Post decent pics of this phone charger thing they are blaming.
I emailed the dealer, US Honda and my local rico. I will post pics. It's from Costco. Fits in cup holder and has magnetic mount for phone. Honda dealer said it could have that because it was aftermarket. I don't think so 🤔. Advisor said the key fob that was ordered was faulty. But this electrical problem was on me...
 

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Keep on at Honda.
Their faulty key fob or incompetence broke your car.

Jump starting? Do you have error codes now?
Where is the burning smell coming from?

Are the 12v battery and ground leads perfect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Keep on at Honda.
Their faulty key fob or incompetence broke your car.

Jump starting? Do you have error codes now?
Where is the burning smell coming from?

Are the 12v battery and ground leads perfect?
Haven't inspected anything myself yet. I will have time this Monday to look with the help of my mechanics from my company. I really don't think this had anything to do with the 12v being plugged in. It's difficult to pin point where the smell is coming from.
 

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I wouldn't trust anything that dealer said and make sure you get a response from Honda Regional about how they are going to repair( hopefully at a different dealer) all of the issues. That dealer also owes you a loaner at their expense till car is repaired. Why would they have you take it home and tell you to not drive it? That seems odd. This whole situation is just plain wrong on so many levels. All you wanted was a replacement key fob, that is a simple process. Expensive but simple.

I hate to say it but you now need a lawyer.
 

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First off don't go to pacific honda. The van nuys one is better.

Second, as qwertylesh noted that outlet is fuse protected.

Third, there are a couple of diagnostics surrounding the ECM ('computer', since they brought it up) that require discharging the current before performing any work by way of jumping two of the OBD port wires. IIRC it pertains to the EVAP system but it is in the factory service manual procedure for certain ECM/ECU work (unplugging the ECM for example). In any case they shouldn't have needed to touch the ECM for a key programming, but it is possible they screwed something up by not following procedure, whatever it is that they did do.

Fourth, yes the ECM can go bad, but in my experience it will be specific circuits (while the rest of the car works fine) and I don't believe the ECM has anything to do with that cig/accessory outlet but I haven't looked for it in the wiring. They said the key they ordered was defective key so did they retract their 'computer went bad' statement? Sounds like it's entirely on them.

Fifth, programming a new key is easy stuff and they shouldn't have screwed that up. These days regular locksmiths offer this service as well. Wonder what the hell they were doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wouldn't trust anything that dealer said and make sure you get a response from Honda Regional about how they are going to repair( hopefully at a different dealer) all of the issues. That dealer also owes you a loaner at their expense till car is repaired. Why would they have you take it home and tell you to not drive it? That seems odd. This whole situation is just plain wrong on so many levels. All you wanted was a replacement key fob, that is a simple process. Expensive but simple.

I hate to say it but you now need a lawyer.
my next step. Lawyer up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
First off don't go to pacific honda. The van nuys one is better.

Second, as qwertylesh noted that outlet is fuse protected.

Third, there are a couple of diagnostics surrounding the ECM ('computer', since they brought it up) that require discharging the current before performing any work by way of jumping two of the OBD port wires. IIRC it pertains to the EVAP system but it is in the factory service manual procedure for certain ECM/ECU work (unplugging the ECM for example). In any case they shouldn't have needed to touch the ECM for a key programming, but it is possible they screwed something up by not following procedure, whatever it is that they did do.

Fourth, yes the ECM can go bad, but in my experience it will be specific circuits (while the rest of the car works fine) and I don't believe the ECM has anything to do with that cig/accessory outlet but I haven't looked for it in the wiring. They said the key they ordered was defective key so did they retract their 'computer went bad' statement? Sounds like it's entirely on them.

Fifth, programming a new key is easy stuff and they shouldn't have screwed that up. These days regular locksmiths offer this service as well. Wonder what the hell they were doing.
Great information. Appreciate this feed back. Couldn't get much sleep thinking about this and I'm so grateful to be part of this forum and community.
 

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Is the gauge cluster indicating any errors? Malfunction indicator lamp? Does your accessory thing work and does the outlet still produce power/was the fuse checked?

My guess is they got a bad key as they said (or they screwed up the key programming procedure) and just blamed it on your phone accessory cupholder thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is the gauge cluster indicating any errors? Malfunction indicator lamp? Does your accessory thing work and does the outlet still produce power/was the fuse checked?

My guess is they got a bad key as they said (or they screwed up the key programming procedure) and just blamed it on your phone accessory cupholder thing.
cluster is Okay. Sport light doesn't work on button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sadly I took it back to the dealer on monday to see if they would do anything about this. Spoke to a different service advisor. They call me to tell me that it was a led bulb that is on my door that caused the short in my fuse box. The fuse box that is blocking communication between another module that is the reason they cannot program a key. The fuse box will cos $1500 to replace. Now they tell me my car mar not work with my key because of a blocker ? Man I believe this.
I don't believe a word they said.
 

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Worst case scenario, the LED itself is shorted causing a fuse to blow. I seriously doubt that the lighting circuit would also power the computer needed to program a new key, which I believe is the ECU. You'd have far greater issues. Plus, you took the car to them working, now it's not working, it's blatantly obvious it's their fault and they're feeding you lies. The fuse box doesn't even handle comms, it just handles power.
 

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If you keep going back to the same dealer you are screwed.

Get the car back.

Remove you led lights/usb charger and any other bits if not standard and take the car to another dealer.
Don't tell them anything about the other dealer and see what the new dealer says.
 

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Any response from regional? That dealer is obviously incompetent and the first visit would have been 2 in 1 ( first and last). It is obvious they have no clue, no training and have done damage and will do more damage. They took a working car with a single issue that is easy to repair and have now made it a non working car with all kinds of mystery issues. They are also blaming everything in the world on non standard better parts you have installed that have nothing at all to do with the original and subsequent issues. A burned out LED at the worst will blow a fuse and has nothing to do with the communications the car has between the computers. They are making excuses not diagnosis. Honda Corporate needs to make it right.

You also need to investigate what agencies licenses that dealer and complaints needs to filed with all. Any ASE certifications for the techs that worked on your car need to be investigated and removed. Whatever money you have paid them needs to be refunded.

Car now needs to go to a different dealer or an electrical specialist with Knowledge of Hybrids and if possible CR-Zs specifically. First dealer all they should do at this point is provide you a no charge loaner while your car is getting fixed somewhere else. If not that dealer then someone else needs to compensate you for loss of use of your vehicle and loss of value if you end up having to dispose of it.

Have you spoken to a Lawyer yet? If not you should ASAP.
 

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No offense but none of this matters they are looking for excuses and a way to overcharge him even more. It needs diagnosis by a good shop who is trustworthy. It was a waste of time to go back to this rip off dealership. There is a very low probability the fuse box needs replaced. There is even less of a probability one LED bulb caused any damage other than a blown fuse or a melted socket but that is very very impossible to believe since LEDs use less wattage and run cooler.

Every single thing that dealership has said is covering their rears and ways to get more money from him and when done it will still not be fixed.

I agree, do what PeterPerkins said.

Also the fuse box is about $580 new online (and Ocean honda is notorious for crazy markup, ~$833 is normal dealer list) but I'm seeing a bunch of these used for between $80-200. Need more info about your specific car (trim and transmission) if you want to track down a used under-dash fuse box.

Also give us some information on the LED they claim caused this. What was it, where was it installed, brand etc.
 
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