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Hello all. Did this Install a while ago and did a write up showing the before and after pictures. You can check it out here http://www.crzforum.com/forum/aftermarket-crowd/1879-led-switchback-park-lights-2.html#post15842

Finally had a chance to do a DIY article on how to install these. I bought this light and decoder kit from IJDMTOY.com 9005 LED Bulbs plus DRL Decoder For Acura Honda Daytime Running Light and load resistors 50W 6Ohm LED Load Resistors | LED Turn Signal Lights Hyper Flash Fix The decoder is because Honda uses 4 volts A/C for the DRL and LED lights tend not to like A/C voltage and these decoders regulate the voltage so the LED bulbs don't flicker or not light up at all. The load resistor is needed because of the "Check DRL System" error message from appearing in the dash display.

What you will need: LED Bulbs, 6 ohm Load resistor per bulb, DRL Decoders, Electrical tape, solder or solder-less crimp terminals, extra wire, screws, and a metal bracket to mount the load resistors to.

Tools needed: Cordless drill, drill bits, right angle drill adapter or stubby Philips, clip remover tool or a flat head screw driver, 10 mm socket and ratchet, soldering iron or crimpers, wire cutters and strippers, multimeter or test probe.

The difficulty of this project is medium to high. I recommend a basic knowledge of electrical and the proper tools to make this job quick and easy. Should take about 2 hours.

***I always suggest professional installation. Myself and or this website cannot be held responsible if you damage your vehicle or yourself***

First Bumper removal: This optional but makes the job much easier to do and gives you much better mounting locations for the load resistors.



Remove all clips (red arrows) by prying up the center pin first then pull the entire clip out. Remove two plastic caps (blue arrows). Remove the rubber strip the clips were holding down and then there is one more clip to remove under it.



Picture of the clip removed.



Driver side wheel well, remove two screws. Repeat on other side.



Passenger side under car. Remove 5 clips and 1 screw on each side of the car.



Pulling the bumper off the car, this is much easier if you have some help. Also have a place cleared out to sit the bumper so it will be out of your way. The bumper clips into a channel under the head light, start at the wheel well (blue arrow) and gently pull out till all clips fully release. Unplug fog light and your done.



Remove 3 10mm bolts holding the headlight in. Remove and unplug all wiring and Turn signal bulb socket. Set aside.



DRL Bulb, Load resistors and DRL Decoders.



Prep the load resistor by extending the wires about 2 ft. Tie in the Decoder (purple arrow) to the load resistor wiring (red arrow) Mount the load resistor to metal bracket. I had a second load resistor for my turn signal(blue arrow)so i mounted them together and mounted them to the car.



Load resistor and DRL Decoder mounting locations. I mounted the load resistor (red arrow) under the bumper impact brace. This spot is good because load resistors get hot and this area is away from anything that can melt, second they get air from the front intake area to keep them cool and third it is hidden. I used one 6 ohm load resistor on each side(mounted one on each side of the car, you see 2 in this picture because the other is for my turn signal, check my DYI for the Switchback/ turn signal install.) After mounting route and secure the wires up towards the DRL plug. Next mount the DRL Decoder (blue arrow) and route the wires towards the DRL plug.



Here is a wiring diagram, always double check wires with a computer safe test probe or multi-meter. Load resistors are just like a light bulb but they produce heat instead of light. They have no polarity so there is no positive or negative. Just hook one side to the DRL bulb ground and the other to it positive.



Splice the load resistor wires into the factory wiring, i suggest solder and tightly tape all connections.



Clean up the wiring with tape and split loom, and replace bulb with led bulb. At this point test to make sure you put the bulb in right (LED light are directional so if you plug it in backward its wont hurt the bulb, simply flip it around and it will light up) .



The DRL bulb is behind the Grey cap, twist to remove, replace bulb and replace cap. The harnesses that come with the DRL Decoder are meant to be plug and play but because of this cap, which must not be let off, you will have to cut the plugs and splice into the wires out side the cap.



Comparison of old DRL bulb left and new LED DRL Right. With the driver side done repeat the same steps for the passenger side. Once all is done and works reinstall the bumper. Now is a good time to swap those fog bulbs.

Use the buddy system, plug in fog lights and lift bumper into place then gently push the bumper into the channel under the headlights. Replace all clips by pushing them in and then push the center pin back in. When putting the clips in under the car there is a hole behind every clip hole that you can put your fingers in to pull the two panels together while securing the clip in it.

Check my other DIY topics for Switchback bulb install, tail lights and HID bulb swap.
 

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Anyone know what color 5k, 6k, etc. these are closest to?
 

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Pretty much wondering thee exact same thing but I was looking into these
2 V-LEDS 6K WHITE 7.5W DRL/FOG BULBS H11

Anyone have a clue on the subject!?
As said in first post of tutorial: "The decoder is because Honda uses 4 volts A/C for the DRL and LED lights tend not to like A/C voltage and these decoders regulate the voltage so the LED bulbs don't flicker or not light up at all. The load resistor is needed because of the "Check DRL System" error message from appearing in the dash display."

What I am thinking of doing, which is what I've done on all other vehicles is buy $10-$15 pair of 6000k halogens off ebay. gives the nice white color, just not as bright. But for the price and ease of install, sounds good to be for DRL. Still gives plenty bright high beam for driving also. Unless someone talks me out of it here in next few days, that will be the route I'm going with on my new CR-Z I just bought 4 days ago :wiggle:
 

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Hello

I installed the same decoder kit from IJDMTOY.com but the kit did not come with any 6 ohm load resistors just the decoders and I have been having Check DRL System errors. Do you have to also add 6 ohm load resistors in parallel with the supplied decoders per your diagram ?

Thank you
 

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You'll need to add resistors to prevent the error warning. Since LEDs create far less resistance than a factory filament bulb, the car's error warnings will interpret this as a bulb going out.

When filament bulbs go bad, they create less resistance. That's how you know it's time to change the bulb, and that's what triggers the warning light in most cases

A simple 6 ohm 50 watt resistor should do the trick, one on each side most likely

If that doesn't work, you may need to add capacitors

Nick C.
 

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You'll need to add resistors to prevent the error warning. Since LEDs create far less resistance than a factory filament bulb, the car's error warnings will interpret this as a bulb going out.

When filament bulbs go bad, they create less resistance. That's how you know it's time to change the bulb, and that's what triggers the warning light in most cases
Simple answer for a simple question, and that's why I'm a chemist and not an electrician...
 

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I just ordered a similar kit

9005 LED Bulbs | Acura TSX TL Honda Civic Accord Daytime Running Light

In the pictures it shows the resistors, so I'm assuming that they are included. It might be the reason why your error lights are going off.
Just a helpful tip when installing the DRL LED and resistors, I wouldn't install the resistors if the DRL Cap is to be left off. You need this Cap to ensure your headlights stay dust free.

Also, I wouldn't use the wires that come with the kit. The LED bulb should connect directly with the standard OEM 9005 plug, but the connectors on the resistors will need to be cut and spliced directly into the wires OUTSIDE of the cap.

Also, I would mount the resistors in the bumper area as stated in the DIY. I initially mounted mine in the engine bay but it didn't look very good so I moved them to the bumper area in exactly the same place as stated in the DIY and it is a much cleaner install.
 

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Just a helpful tip when installing the DRL LED and resistors, I wouldn't install the resistors if the DRL Cap is to be left off. You need this Cap to ensure your headlights stay dust free.

Also, I wouldn't use the wires that come with the kit. The LED bulb should connect directly with the standard OEM 9005 plug, but the connectors on the resistors will need to be cut and spliced directly into the wires OUTSIDE of the cap.

Also, I would mount the resistors in the bumper area as stated in the DIY. I initially mounted mine in the engine bay but it didn't look very good so I moved them to the bumper area in exactly the same place as stated in the DIY and it is a much cleaner install.
I plan on cutting and splicing to make it look factory. First doing it with butt connectors to make sure I did it right then to solder permenantly. Also, this includes continual use of the dust protector.

I will not be mounting the resistors directly on the frame as described on the DIY. I have yet to look at any locations of mounting but I plan on cutting a small piece of painted Aluminum and mounting the resistors on one side and a heatsink on the other.

I'll be messing around, I tend to do a good job. Thanks for the advice.
 
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