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If the person who posted has not been on for years then it is a waste of your time to respond to it. The other issue is sometimes folks that respond to old postings are trying to set themselves up to be spammers and scammers. Yours is not that but it sets other members off and they report.
I dont even know how to respond to that. Suffice to say there are many reasons why someone would respond to an old post. Thank you very much for the info. I do appreciate it👍✌
 

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It's the plastic link part inside that connects the actual handle to the part of the door linkage that unlocks it and allows the door to open. They should have made that part metal instead of plastic
We can have some machined from metal. 139.00 for a new handle would be worth it.
 

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When you get that done post a group buy. This has been an ongoing issue for years. One member claimed he made a metal replacement but it was a long time ago and was proof of concept/prototype. For now the only solution is to buy replacements and if you are lucky your color is still available.

We can have some machined from metal. 139.00 for a new handle would be worth it.
 

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I think I have a good repair on mine. Bonded the original crack, then bonded a piece of .020 Titanium to the side bridging where it broke. We shall see. I'll update
 

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Just want to chime in here that it's still an issue. I had to do a temporary repair to mine yesterday. I'm looking into making a 3D-printable reinforced part that can be attached to the painted portion of the handle.
 

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Many have proposed the same but no one has yet to make one that worked. There was also someone who made one out of metal. Please keep us informed.

Just want to chime in here that it's still an issue. I had to do a temporary repair to mine yesterday. I'm looking into making a 3D-printable reinforced part that can be attached to the painted portion of the handle.
 

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Many have proposed the same but no one has yet to make one that worked. There was also someone who made one out of metal. Please keep us informed.
My plan is to print a replacement lever arm, and attach it to the existing handle with M3 bolts and threaded inserts.
Tool Electric blue Wood Auto part Bumper Bicycle part Font Composite material Auto part Metal
 

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My plan is to print a replacement lever arm, and attach it to the existing handle with M3 bolts and threaded inserts.
View attachment 65114 View attachment 65115
Lots of plans not a lot of solutions. I hope you will be different and it will cost less than the current OEM solution.

It is one of the major issues with CR-Zs.

I'll believe it when you create a group buy or usable file for those that have access to a 3d printer or can have it made using the file and process.

Many will be watching. It is very much needed.
 

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Prototype 1 functions as expected aside from a couple clearance issues making it a rough pull, but once I get good working files, I will post the process, parts list, and models
Combat vehicle Motor vehicle Wood Vehicle Machine
 

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Lots of plans not a lot of solutions. I hope you will be different and it will cost less than the current OEM solution.

It is one of the major issues with CR-Zs.

I'll believe it when you create a group buy or usable file for those that have access to a 3d printer or can have it made using the file and process.

Many will be watching. It is very much needed.
Ok. My door is back together and I dare say version 4 works and feels just as good as OEM. I printed it out of ASA vs GF nylon for the OEM part. I'm curious to see how it holds up in the summer heat, but if it fails again, I'm going to print it out of CF-PC.

Here is the model if anyone is interested in printing it.

Step 1:
Remove the exterior door handle. There are many posts on how to do this and I don't feel like writing up another one, but let me know if you run into any issues here.

Step 2:
Disassemble the handle. First remove the Phillips screw holding the cast aluminum block to the lever arm. You can then remove that piece. Now you should be able to push out the 5mm plastic pivot pin and remove the painted handle part.

Step 3:
To modify the original handle, cut off the original lever arm to where the plastic is solid. I did this with a Dremel, but use what you have. A hacksaw would probably work.

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Helmet


Next you need to drill the post that's left 3/16" or 5mm right in the center about 8mm deep. Go slow and be EXTREMELY careful while drilling that the bit doesn't walk off center. If the hole blows out the side of the post, it will be difficult/impossible to salvage. I HIGHLY recommend that you first make a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit.

Step 4:
Set your soldering iron to ~300°C and use it to heat and press the threaded insert into the drilled hole until it is flush with the top of the post.
Bag Electric blue Wood Strap Natural material


After sinking the insert, it may bulge out the plastic on the outside of the post, so you might need to shave it down a little for smooth operation.

Step 5:
Install the printed lever arm using an M3x20mm button head machine screw, and reassemble the handle. Make sure the spring loaded white piece is on the proper side of the lever arm.

The final assembly should look like this.
Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior


If you don't want to buy the individual parts or worry about printing, send me a DM and I'll mail you a parts kit with some spares for $30. Though like I said, I'm not sure how well the ASA is going to hold up long term, but the overall design is significantly beefier than the OEM part. If I find that it doesn't hold up, I will switch to a more expensive sturdier plastic.

I hope this is helpful
 
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