[Roxycute12]

Hey all,
My car is a 2012 and nearing 200k miles of fun driving, just a great car! My current issue is that my driver side low beam went out and I bought a bulb(same as I had bought some years ago) and it wouldn't turn on. I took it to a mechanic and he said i need a whole new headlight module and headlight assembly... for a 400/100 cost , so well over 600. The car has been relatively problem free so dont mind paying if i have to, but just the reading of posts it seems ballasts or fuses go and those get replaced at much cheaper cost.... I have no mechanical knowledge, yes i know, but just wondering what if any input from you all to help me in asking the right questions of mechanics and or suggestions on troubleshooting or if this is a more common issue and i just haven't read that online yet? Im driving only in daylight but really need to get it fixed and hoping for a much less expensive solution!!! Thank you all

 

[Spdbump]

HID (EX or Above) or Halogen (base)? HID has ballasts, Halogen does not. If Shop does not know go elsewhere, Ballasts are for each side and can burn out.

If HID, even if the bulb is burned out, do not leave the socket with no bulb. It is a high voltage system and can arc over or melt if no bulb is in it. It can cause a fire! You can for testing take bulb from working side and swap to non-working, same can be done with ballasts and the igniter. If ballast is bad, they can be replaced, so can the igniter. Never touch the glass of the bulb with bare hands! The oil can cause a hot spot which will cause the bulb to burn out.

Due to the way they dim over time, it is recommended to replace both at the same time. If HIDs one of the best deals for bulbs are from Replacement OEM HID Bulbs for 2011-2016 Honda CR-Z (pair) $80 for the pair! If you mention this forum, shipping is free, and they have a 3-Year warranty.

You need a better shop!

 

[Roxycute12]

HID (EX or Above) or Halogen (base)? HID has ballasts, Halogen does not. If Shop does not know go elsewhere, Ballasts are for each side and can burn out.

If HID, even if the bulb is burned out, do not leave the socket with no bulb. It is a high voltage system and can arc over or melt if no bulb is in it. It can cause a fire! You can for testing take bulb from working side and swap to non-working, same can be done with ballasts. If the socket is melted, you can get replacements. If ballast is bad, they can be replaced too. Never touch the glass of the bulb with bare hands! The oil can cause a hot spot which will cause the bulb to burn out.

You need a better shop!

Ok yes, its an HID and yes , i left the old bulb in until i figure it out. Ok, will see on getting working side bulb swapped to see!!! Hope its just that simple. As for ballast , not sure how complicated that is buy will keep reading forum for any diy or YT as that is definitely sounding out my can do etc... and yes , the last time it was changed my friend used gloves to handle bulbs. I live in a rural area so shops are far and few and this one has been decently good for past works and the rest i drove to dealer 1.5 hrs etc but worth it... just hoping its a simpler fix but will start off with your suggestion.... what about fuses? I read someplaces to replace #8 or something, will re read and check... thanks again

 

[Spdbump]

As it is one side, not both, I would not suspect a fuse, but I am not sure. It is very easy once you know which fuse number to either remove it and see if the little wire is broken or use a meter or test light, and you can probe the fuse to see if it is blown, it is set up to be tested that way. Visual inspection is good enough. It will be obvious if the fuse is blown.

This old thread has fuse number information in it.

Yeah... I’m Vern, I’m a man and I’m old (or at least “ole”)

My subject vehicle is a 2011. It belongs to my son; a nurse who is working long hours in a hospital (Non-ICU COVID). I joined this community on his behalf to get advice on any problems that are sure to follow (thank you in advance). The latest was fixed right away as, if left alone, it would...

www.crzforum.com

"Ballast"part number information

33119-SZT-G01 - Honda Parts Now

www.hondapartsnow.com

or

33129-SZT-G01 - Genuine Honda Igniter, Hid

Use part number to search online sources, or you can order from them.

Others are more familiar as to which part you may need, and I presume there are less expensive sources.

Ok yes, its an HID and yes , i left the old bulb in until i figure it out. Ok, will see on getting working side bulb swapped to see!!! Hope its just that simple. As for ballast , not sure how complicated that is buy will keep reading forum for any diy or YT as that is definitely sounding out my can do etc... and yes , the last time it was changed my friend used gloves to handle bulbs. I live in a rural area so shops are far and few and this one has been decently good for past works and the rest i drove to dealer 1.5 hrs etc but worth it... just hoping its a simpler fix but will start off with your suggestion.... what about fuses? I read someplaces to replace #8 or something, will re read and check... thanks again

 

[Roxycute12]

As it is one side, not both, I would not suspect a fuse, but i am not sure. It is very easy once you know which fuse number to either remove it and see if the little wire is broken or use a meter or test light, and you can probe the fuse it is set up to be tested that way. Visual inspection is good enough. It will be obvious if the fuse is blown.

This old thread has fuse number information in it.

Yeah... I’m Vern, I’m a man and I’m old (or at least “ole”)

My subject vehicle is a 2011. It belongs to my son; a nurse who is working long hours in a hospital (Non-ICU COVID). I joined this community on his behalf to get advice on any problems that are sure to follow (thank you in advance). The latest was fixed right away as, if left alone, it would...

www.crzforum.com

"Ballast"part number information

33119-SZT-G01 - Honda Parts Now

www.hondapartsnow.com

or

33129-SZT-G01 - Genuine Honda Igniter, Hid

Use part number to search online sources, or you can order from them.

Others are more familiar as to which part you may need, and I presume there are less expensive sources.

Thanks for that link, will look tomorrow morning and see but yes i see your point in being one side as the posts i read did mention both lights not turning on... but still will check and will figure out on the bulb swap for starters!!!! Thanks again!!!!

 

[96firephoenix]

Even if it is a blown fuse, you should investigate why the fuse is blown. if there's a failure in the ballast, it would ideally blow the fuse. The igniters are also a likely failure point, but you should have noticed a blown igniter when you changed the bulb.

The ballast and igniter assembly is a standard part made by mitsubishi. You have to take the headlight off the car, and then there's 3 screws that attach it to the underside of the assembly. The mitsubishi part number is W3T21571 and if you search that number on Ebay, you'll find a lot of options.

 

[Roxycute12]

Even if it is a blown fuse, you should investigate why the fuse is blown. if there's a failure in the ballast, it would ideally blow the fuse. The igniters are also a likely failure point, but you should have noticed a blown igniter when you changed the bulb.

The ballast and igniter assembly is a standard part made by mitsubishi. You have to take the headlight off the car, and then there's 3 screws that attach it to the underside of the assembly. The mitsubishi part number is W3T21571 and if you search that number on Ebay, you'll find a lot of options.

Oh ok, so wait, the igniter? I didnt change bulb, so didnt notice that but let me google what that looks like when good and can compare it to mine as im looking at fuses too just in case!!!!

 

[96firephoenix]

Oh ok, so wait, the igniter? I didnt change bulb, so didnt notice that but let me google what that looks like when good and can compare it to mine as im looking at fuses too just in case!!!!

the igniter is the part that connects directly to the bulb.

 

[Roxycute12]

the igniter is the part that connects directly to the bulb.

Ok and thanks, yes, seeing pics of that now and when mechanic changed i hope he would have noticed ...but... i have a friend that is willing to try it and look and confirm... so if igniter is bad, is that a difficult diy change? On a 1-10 scale and i know nothing... i dont mind learning and trying something if its not too difficult lol....the car has been so good all these years so i guess its time for somethings to start to fall apart but from all the other posts, this is not bad in general!!!!!

 

[96firephoenix]

Ok and thanks, yes, seeing pics of that now and when mechanic changed i hope he would have noticed ...but... i have a friend that is willing to try it and look and confirm... so if igniter is bad, is that a difficult diy change? On a 1-10 scale and i know nothing... i dont mind learning and trying something if its not too difficult lol....the car has been so good all these years so i guess its time for somethings to start to fall apart but from all the other posts, this is not bad in general!!!!!

the igniter isn't particularly hard to change, it's just a nuisance to get to while it's installed on the car. I'd recommend a 90° small pick from the tool aisle at autozone.

 

[Roxycute12]

the igniter isn't particularly hard to change, it's just a nuisance to get to while it's installed on the car. I'd recommend a 90° small pick from the tool aisle at autozone.

"isn't particularly hard to change" he says lol...ok will look at it when my friend checks the bulb, she's a little more inclined to mechanical stuff but not by much! And is the 90° tool due to the space? We are both small girls lol so small hands and hopefully that will help navigate that area , as I saw some YT about taking off bumper but others said not necessarily so going that route!

 

[96firephoenix]

"isn't particularly hard to change" he says lol...ok will look at it when my friend checks the bulb, she's a little more inclined to mechanical stuff but not by much! And is the 90° tool due to the space? We are both small girls lol so small hands and hopefully that will help navigate that area , as I saw some YT about taking off bumper but others said not necessarily so going that route!

"isn't particularly hard to change" in the sense that it's only removing the dust cover, popping the igniter off the bulb, then releasing the electrical connector.

Just to change the igniter, you don't need to take the bumper off, it's accessible from above - but it's a pain in the ass, due to tight space. Small hands will help!

There's a release on the connector that you pretty much need the pick to get to.
Arrows are pointing roughly at the same spot.

 

[Roxycute12]

"isn't particularly hard to change" in the sense that it's only removing the dust cover, popping the igniter off the bulb, then releasing the electrical connector.

Just to change the igniter, you don't need to take the bumper off, it's accessible from above - but it's a pain in the ass, due to tight space. Small hands will help!

There's a release on the connector that you pretty much need the pick to get to.
Arrows are pointing roughly at the same spot.
View attachment 68450
View attachment 68451

Woot woot! Yay! Ok that's doable! I think lol... so when i look at the igniter, will it be blackened or something to tell me that may be the issue? Also, checked fuses and they appear fine, both for low and high beams... so at least one down... but thank you! I'll try that this weekend evening!!!!!!

 

[Roxycute12]

"isn't particularly hard to change" in the sense that it's only removing the dust cover, popping the igniter off the bulb, then releasing the electrical connector.

Just to change the igniter, you don't need to take the bumper off, it's accessible from above - but it's a pain in the ass, due to tight space. Small hands will help!

There's a release on the connector that you pretty much need the pick to get to.
Arrows are pointing roughly at the same spot.
View attachment 68450
View attachment 68451

Also, thanks for information and one extra question... besides the ballast and igniter thing, what else would go wrong , most likely, that would make mechanic decide that buying a new one was the best route? I'm reading and it seems those are primary parts... and wiring too but just making sure before i talk with him so i appear a little more knowledgeable and just for my benefit of knowing too!!! Thanks again!!

 

[96firephoenix]

realistically, if you're not getting light from just one headlight, it's one of: Fuse, Bulb, Igniter, Ballast, or the wiring between components. If it's both headlights, there's also the possibility of the switch being bad.

The mechanic that told you to replace the whole assembly is equal parts lazy and uninformed, as the new "headlight assembly" doesn't include the bulb, ballast, or igniter if you order it from honda.

The only thing I'd add to the fuse check is to take a wire brush to the terminals of the fuse. I've had a couple things over the years "fail" because the fuse had gotten corroded enough that when I pulled it out to check, it went back onto a spot of corrosion that wasn't conductive.

 

[Roxycute12]

realistically, if you're not getting light from just one headlight, it's one of: Fuse, Bulb, Igniter, Ballast, or the wiring between components. If it's both headlights, there's also the possibility of the switch being bad.

The mechanic that told you to replace the whole assembly is equal parts lazy and uninformed, as the new "headlight assembly" doesn't include the bulb, ballast, or igniter if you order it from honda.

The only thing I'd add to the fuse check is to take a wire brush to the terminals of the fuse. I've had a couple things over the years "fail" because the fuse had gotten corroded enough that when I pulled it out to check, it went back onto a spot of corrosion that wasn't conductive.

They need a bowdown emoji... i would use one for your response!!! Thank you! I thought it was odd that just replace the whole thing too... got a ding in door? Buy a new car etc... I hope this is the case and will do some looking and eliminating parts little by little as i learn more!!!! Thank you again!!!!!!!

 

[Roxycute12]

Just following up and went to a different mechanic and he did some troubleshooting shooting and said it was " the part that I need is called a “pigtail”

It’s the part that the light plugs into"

so, looked for videos or posts on diy and nothing so far but good news is this part is way less expensive than the whole light module, but just wondering if this is a diy type change ?or anyone did something like this before?

 

[Spdbump]

It appears it is not just a connector with wires, it appears it is the igniter. See below for more details.

 

[Roxycute12]

Ok and thanks! But just to clarify, is a pigtail a general term for this car part? And im reading that soldering wires to one another is best too... ok thanks!

 

[Spdbump]

Ok and thanks! But just to clarify, is a pigtail a general term for this car part? And im reading that soldering wires to one another is best too... ok thanks!

Pigtail is a generic wiring term. It is a socket/connector and some bare wires. A more correct term is replacement socket (in this situation).

Rereading above @96firephoenix's posting seems to indicate that the igniter is the socket. You may just need the igniter (not the less expensive "pigtail"), as that is the first link from the bulb to the rest of the circuit. The next part in the circuit is the Module (Aka Ballast). It has a small wire that attaches it to the igniter. Unless that wire is damaged then you can get a replacement connector for it and use some method to replace it, but I doubt the wire is damaged it is either the igniter or the module. Both are over $300 from Honda, but there should be other, more affordable equivalents. You are maybe able to just replace the igniter and the issue is solved. The second mechanic may not know that the "socket" is the igniter and not just a generic socket. Or the damage maybe between the igniter and the module. I think that is a low probability. IMO it is the igniter or the Control Unit. Swap from working side to non-working side to determine which it is.

What we still do not know is how much of it is damaged, is it just the igniter or does the damage go further? If the low beam headlight was ever turned on with no bulb in it then the igniter could arc and melt then if you are lucky only the igniter needs to be replaced if unlucky then you may need the Control unit too

But it appears only the low beam headlight is affected on that side. Now you or a good, knowledgeable mechanic needs to figure out the lowest cost way to repair it. After more rereading, it is most likely either the igniter or the control module.

All of this presumes that the working bulb from the other side does not work on this side.
Bulb----> Igniter------> Control Module (AKA Ballast) as the rest of the lights in that headlight are working, it has to be one of these three or the connections between them. Connections between, as I stated, is a very low probability. Time to narrow it down. Swap good to bad side for each part. Swap it back and then try the next part in the line as shown.

Once both sides are working, you may want to replace both low beam bulbs. They do dim over time.

If you had bought just the headlight, that may not include all these other parts. It could be just the housing for the lights with no electrical parts so that first place is lazy, wrong and would have cost you a lot of money, and you would still have no headlight on that side.