Honda CR-Z Hybrid Car Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new to me 2011 cr-z ex, I’ve searched around and haven’t seen my issue addressed but point me in the right direction if it has been covered :)

Who likes riddles? I’ve got good one for you.🤷🏻‍♂️
My driver door opens and closes as normal until I lock and unlock it. Then it acts as if it’s still locked.

What I know/have tried so far:
  • Oiled/greased all parts

  • Replaced the locking mechanism
  • Had everything apart multiple times
  • Will only unlatch after I put a flathead and push down on the locking mechanism inside the latch itself
Is it possible that it’s not getting a signal to release the lock or something? I’m honestly stumped at what to even try next to fix it.

Thanks in advance!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,067 Posts
Does the key unlock the drivers door? It sounds like the lock is not fully unlocking. Have you replaced the battery in the remote? Have you had your under hood battery load tested? If the Under hood battery is weak it may not fully unlock the door or unlock it at all. Others have had issues with under hood batteries being weak and not being able to unlock the door except with the key and some could not even do that due to external handle failure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It’s not a remote issue because I can unlock it from inside or with the key in the door, and still have the same issue.

I’ll be trying the 12v battery next, I’ve not tested that yet. Although it does lock/unlock the other door fine, hmm.


Does the key unlock the drivers door? It sounds like the lock is not fully unlocking. Have you replaced the battery in the remote? Have you had your under hood battery load tested? If the Under hood battery is weak it may not fully unlock the door or unlock it at all. Others have had issues with under hood batteries being weak and not being able to unlock the door except with the key and some could not even do that due to external handle failure.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,067 Posts
But when you use the remote the drivers door still does not open you have to use the key or the switch on the door when sitting in the car that does not rule out the remote system. When you use the remote and click open does the passenger door open( even if you have to click 2 times since that is a MID setting)? If so then something within the drivers door has failed or is disconnected or damaged related to the remote connection to the door.

There are 3 connections to the door lock on the drivers door.
1) Physical mechanical connection when using the key
2) Electrical connection when you use the switch on the door
3) Electric signal using a solenoid when you use the remote

This third connection is the one you are having issues with. Some connection between the remote receiver and the solenoid or battery in remote is weak but if the passenger door can be opened with remote then it is a connection issue between the remote brain and the drivers side door solenoid.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you!
Yes the passenger side works as normal.
What would be the steps to troubleshoot a connection issue between the remote brain and the drivers side door solenoid?

It sounds like it’s working, makes a normal noise when locked and unlocked.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
9,067 Posts
You could try swapping the solenoid from working passenger side to drivers or if you can get the FSM track where the wires connect to the door solenoid from the brain and continuity check each one if you do not see an obvious break. Something else to try is unplug the connector for the solenoid in the door and use some contact cleaner in it or contact enhancer ( A job I worked as an IT tech donated a bottle of this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHCE1 ($103.99 for 16 ml) to me. They use it for Air Bag Connections on Fire Trucks). You can also use contact cleaner or enhancer for the connector on the brain but since passenger side is working I would focus on connectivity on the drivers door wiring for the locking mechanism. Maybe it is slightly corroded which makes it high resistance so you hear it operating but it is not moving as far as it needs to.

Dealer Visit maybe required unfortunately. :(

Correct once locked and unlocked the door doesn’t open no matter what form I use to open it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you, trying to avoid the dealership at all cost but you could be right.
I tested the current going into the unit as I locked and unlocked it. Each side is getting 13.5v which I would guess is normal. I even hooked up a battery charger to make sure it was getting enough juice. I’ll definitely try contact cleaner but it doesn’t appear corroded.
does anyone know where I can get a wire digram? There are more wires in the connector that I don’t know what there for.

I’m about to rip it all out and install remote door poppers. It should not be this complicated right?
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top