there seems to be an issue with your attachments. maybe it's just me.
Door Handle Repair Guide/Kit
I recently had my exterior drivers-side door handle break in the heat and discovered it is a common issue with the CRZ due to a poorly engineered part. I came up with a solution that matches the feel and function of the OEM part, and decided to share it here for anyone else with the same issue.
Tools:
If you don't want to worry about buying the individual fasteners or printing the lever arm, send me a DM and I will mail you a parts kit with some spares for $40
Printing Recommendations:
Material: ABS, ASA, or PC (PLA, PETG, and Nylon either have thermal issues or are susceptible to creep)
Minimum Total Wall Thickness: 1.5mm
Infill: 80% Hexagonal, Triangular, or Cubic
Step 1:
Remove the exterior door handle. There are many posts on how to do this and CRZOwner915 has an excellent video here. I do have some additional tips though.
Step 2:
Disassemble the handle. First remove the Phillips screw holding the cast aluminum block to the lever arm. You can then remove that piece. Now you should be able to push out the 5mm plastic pivot pin and remove the painted handle part.
Step 3:
To modify the original handle, cut off the original lever arm to where the plastic is solid. I did this with a Dremel, but use what you have. A hacksaw will work too.
![Wood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Helmet]()
Next you need to drill the post that's left 3/16" or 5mm right in the center about 8mm deep. Go slow and be EXTREMELY careful while drilling that the bit doesn't walk off center. If the hole blows out the side of the post, it will be difficult/impossible to salvage. I HIGHLY recommend that you first make a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit.
Step 4:
Using a soldering iron set to ~300°C heat and press the threaded insert into the drilled hole until it is flush with the top of the post.
![Bag Electric blue Wood Strap Natural material]()
After sinking the insert, it may bulge out the plastic on the outside of the post, so you might need to shave it down a little for smooth operation.
Step 5:
Install the printed lever arm using an M3x20mm button head machine screw, and reassemble the handle. Make sure the spring loaded white piece is on the proper side of the lever arm.
The final assembly should look something like this.
![Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior]()
I haven't had a chance to evaluate the longevity of the printed part, but it is significantly beefier than the OEM lever arm and worst case, it is easy to print a new one and replace it again with the modified handle. I'm aware how much of a problem the door handle mechanism is, so I wanted to share my solution before waiting a year or more to test the parts. If you have any additional questions, respond and I will be happy to answer! I hope this is helpful to someone.
P.S. If someone wants to send me their broken handle to take better pictures of the process, I will repair it for free.
Tools:
- flat head screwdriver
- #3 and #2 phillips head screwdriver
- 10mm socket and ratchet
- 5mm hex key
- 2mm hex key
- Dremel with cutoff wheel or a hacksaw
- Drill with 3/16 or 5mm drill bit (1/8" or smaller bit is also recommended)
- Soldering iron (temp control is preferred)
If you don't want to worry about buying the individual fasteners or printing the lever arm, send me a DM and I will mail you a parts kit with some spares for $40
Printing Recommendations:
Material: ABS, ASA, or PC (PLA, PETG, and Nylon either have thermal issues or are susceptible to creep)
Minimum Total Wall Thickness: 1.5mm
Infill: 80% Hexagonal, Triangular, or Cubic
Step 1:
Remove the exterior door handle. There are many posts on how to do this and CRZOwner915 has an excellent video here. I do have some additional tips though.
- Make sure you are using the right size driver on the phillips screws. they are torqued pretty tight and easy to strip. especially with an impact driver.
- Remove the phillips screw next to the locking mechanism plug to remove the assembly.
- Be extra careful when removing or installing the bolts that hold on the exterior handle as they can easily fall into welded interior compartments in the door and become impossible to retrieve (ask me how I know).
- After removing the locking mechanism, plug the connector back in to keep your alarm from going off.
Step 2:
Disassemble the handle. First remove the Phillips screw holding the cast aluminum block to the lever arm. You can then remove that piece. Now you should be able to push out the 5mm plastic pivot pin and remove the painted handle part.
Step 3:
To modify the original handle, cut off the original lever arm to where the plastic is solid. I did this with a Dremel, but use what you have. A hacksaw will work too.
Next you need to drill the post that's left 3/16" or 5mm right in the center about 8mm deep. Go slow and be EXTREMELY careful while drilling that the bit doesn't walk off center. If the hole blows out the side of the post, it will be difficult/impossible to salvage. I HIGHLY recommend that you first make a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit.
Step 4:
Using a soldering iron set to ~300°C heat and press the threaded insert into the drilled hole until it is flush with the top of the post.
After sinking the insert, it may bulge out the plastic on the outside of the post, so you might need to shave it down a little for smooth operation.
Step 5:
Install the printed lever arm using an M3x20mm button head machine screw, and reassemble the handle. Make sure the spring loaded white piece is on the proper side of the lever arm.
The final assembly should look something like this.
I haven't had a chance to evaluate the longevity of the printed part, but it is significantly beefier than the OEM lever arm and worst case, it is easy to print a new one and replace it again with the modified handle. I'm aware how much of a problem the door handle mechanism is, so I wanted to share my solution before waiting a year or more to test the parts. If you have any additional questions, respond and I will be happy to answer! I hope this is helpful to someone.
P.S. If someone wants to send me their broken handle to take better pictures of the process, I will repair it for free.
21 - 40 of 54 Posts
Glad to know they restart production even it if takes 900 years. 😂My guy living in the year 2921
This is a universal problem for CRZ doors; good design but poor specification of internal material (plastic instead of metal)
Mine both sides were still ok, but quite stiff to open. They might break anytime soon.
Fearing that I could be crawling out through window to get in/out in the future, both sides were rectified by replacing the plastic part with aluminium.
![Automotive tire Wheel Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior]()
Mine both sides were still ok, but quite stiff to open. They might break anytime soon.
Fearing that I could be crawling out through window to get in/out in the future, both sides were rectified by replacing the plastic part with aluminium.
3
No worries, I appreciate the reply. I know there's a 3D printer file around of at least one design.
After examining mine however it appears that it broke (and I didn't break it, came out to the handle partially open, still functional but not self-retracting) in a different place from where many others have broken. The majority appear to break on the long arms of the pull-handle itself (the part that you pull out to operate the latch) while mine has a crack on the base of the assembly where the pivot rod for the pull-handle arms mount. So there's at least two places where the door handles can break so making the entire thing nearly bomb-proof would require both the base and pull-handle to made of metal or a metal-reinforced plastic.
Posting for visibility - in case people were still interested in full metal handles, I've started a new thread here on that topic:
www.crzforum.com
How to make metal CR-Z door handles
Hi everyone, I have recently been through a proper ordeal with broken door handles (as many of you also have) and came up with a viable long-term solution. I recorded a short video about it, so if you're interested, feel free to give it a look: Use this referral code to get 10% off a...
www.crzforum.com
"Make sure you are using the right size driver on the phillips screws."
Note: I discovered a few years ago that these are not phillips screws. nothing on a japanese car uses phillips. they are actually a different standard called JIS. When I got a set of JIS screwdrivers my life changed for the better on my Cars and Bikes.
![Font Gesture Rectangle Line Parallel]()
Note: I discovered a few years ago that these are not phillips screws. nothing on a japanese car uses phillips. they are actually a different standard called JIS. When I got a set of JIS screwdrivers my life changed for the better on my Cars and Bikes.
21 - 40 of 54 Posts
