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DIY Water Pump Replacement Notes/Helm Corrections. Not a full DIY but just corrections and information about how to do certain things and issues with the Helm manual steps.

Just some tips and information for those who might undertake water pump replacement for the CR-Z.

1. One of the first steps is to loosen the water pump pulley bolts, you either need to jam up the pulley with something wedged against the body through the openings in the pulley (and jam it three times, once for each bolt as you rotate the pulley due to lack of space) or impact them off. Holding the belt or crankshaft pulley won't work as it just slips. With two people you can hold one of the other bolts from the top while undoing the others but you'll need to do one of these other methods for the last bolt (there are 3 water pump pulley bolts).

2. Helm specifies a special tool to release the tension for the auto-tensioner. It is not needed. It may make the new belt installation slightly easier (no first hand experience of the specified tool, but for the price and infrequency of WP replacement it doesn't seem worth it). That tool is designed for some vehicles that have super-tight clearance between the chassis and auto-tensioner but the CR-Z's auto-tensioner is easily accessed from the top and there is sufficient room. A wrench with the round end on the tensioner and a 1/2in drive ratchet on the box end of the wrench provides good torque, or a cheater pipe.

3. After loosening the WP pulley bolts and undoing the drive pulley belt tension (from the auto-tensioner) the Helm manual says to remove the water pump pulley then remove the water pump bolts. There is simply not enough room between the pump/engine and chassis to remove the pulley by itself. I was able to remove the 5 water pump bolts (from the top) with the pulley simply loose off the WP spindle, but hanging there, and then the pulley and pump came out together (but loose) from below the engine bay. Had to reinstall the same way, with the pulley loose on it's spindle, install the 5 WP bolts, then the pulley bolts. A/C lines from above/in front prevented top-side installation even with the radiator removed. The Helm diagrams also show removal from below.

4. Tightening the water pump pulley bolts will again require jamming the pulley or impact. I usually shun impact for installing (only prefer to loosen with impact), but seeing as the threaded holes are replaceable with another pump I decided to just lightly impact them on. They're 10mm, but special, so they're very low in torque specifications.

5. There is no belt installation order specified but it's fairly straightforward. From the bottom of the engine bay wrap it around the crankshaft and A/C pulleys, around the WP (flat side of belt) then push the belt up and you can grab the belt from the top to wrap around tensioner pulley.

****Any time you remove or replace anything in the cooling system you must bleed/'burp' the air out of the system. Bleeding coolant how-two found here (scroll halfway down first post)****
http://www.crzforum.com/forum/do-yourself-articles/37194-diy-full-coolant-change-coolant-bleed.html

Minor note about the upper radiator hose colored dots on the ends of the hose, if you want to be technical the red dot on the hose end should be at the radiator neck and the blue dot should be at the cylinder head neck. It likely doesn’t make a difference but after I noticed the two colors and how the hose could be fit either way I went back and looked through all the photos of stock CR-Z engine bays and confirmed this. The other hoses dots also align with certain points to indicate they’re not twisted and properly fitted, they line up with little humps on their respective fitting ends but it’s far less likely to get the orientation wrong with those (like the lower radiator hose, can only go one way).

[Once again I almost never impact-on. I'll never impact into a thread that is critical or very difficult to replace (engine, cylinder head, transmission housing, chassis) but seeing as how the water pump pulley spindle threads can be replaced with another pump should the threads get messed up and jamming the pulley was proving difficult it was the best solution on hand.]

Just a few tips for the DIYer. Usually the Helm is spot on but in this case it needed some corrections and elaboration.

Random photos.
Water pump, thermostat and the two main radiator hoses. Red and blue dot on the upper radiator hose.
View attachment 23970

Water pump face showing where the pulley attaches
View attachment 23978

This is the bottom of the pump showing the weep hole (a little coolant weeping is ok), also showing where mine had a bit of a leak near the impeller bearing as evidenced by the dark dirty build-up.
View attachment 23986

Water pump impeller, made of plastic.
View attachment 23994

Auto Tensioner indicator marks. The three lines will move with regards to the belt tension. As the belt gets older and stretches the three marks will move towards the front of the car, the one mark on the other side by itself stays put and is the reading line. The indicated marks in the gif show when it's out of tension/time to replace belt or inspect the auto-tensioner. After about 90,000 miles my belt was right at the second line.
 

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SO, the water pump. No engine experience. Can I get a diagram pointing to the location of a water pump on a 2013 auto trans, base? Anyone done this on their own?
 
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