DIY: OEM EX Sub

65096 Views 111 Replies 56 Participants Last post by sandoval, Oct 29, 2016

Talk2meGOOSE

Discussion Starter · May 15, 2011 (Edited)

8

To remove the OEM Sub on the EX spec Cr-Z,

Step 1: Open Trunk...

P:

DO NOT try and pry this piece off, it is screwed on from behind and you will snap something.

Flip the "back seats" forward and remove the carpeted piece, rubber mat if you have it, spare tire and all accessories with it.

You can easily pinch and pull off the rubber seal around the trunk, then remove the indicated interior panel by grabbing hold, and lifting up.

Carefully pry the driver side interior wall away to reveal the sub.

Then remove the 3 bolts and 1 nut (10mm) to take out the sub before you try to remove the face and sub. This will make it easier to work with so you don't skip with the drill and pierce part of the speaker... :sadwavey:

Disconnect the power source before removing it.

Now that it is removed, remove the phillips head screw on the back side that goes into the speaker magnet.

Then remove the 4 screws to release the grate cover; then the 8 screws to remove the sub.
(THERE IS A WIRE THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO SNAP, SO DO NOT JUST PULL IT OUT)

That's how you remove it. Follow the directions backwards to put it back together of course.

I just did this to put some Polyfill in the "box" for now to make it sound better until I eventually replace all the speakers.

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1 - 20 of 112 Posts

zoltiz

· #2 · May 15, 2011

Does it make sense to "upgrade" the driver without touching the amp and such?

Talk2meGOOSE

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 15, 2011

Not sure, not all that savy with it; still learning.

716atHeart

· #4 · May 15, 2011

I'm browsing Crutchfield right now looking at subs that require

1. very low RMS power
2. small enclosures

Going to look into it a bit more before I pull the trigger

SS2CRZ

· #5 · May 16, 2011

I poly filled mine too. Sounds MUCH better! :thumbsup:

I'm going to worry about replacing all the other speakers first (eventually) and adding DynaMat to the doors at least. For now, I think the stock EX system sounds damn good compared to the usual stock crap found in most cars these days.

daveczrn

· #6 · May 18, 2011

sub magnet looks sizable... not something you really see on a stock sub.

Reactions: 1

RedefinedCRZ

· #7 · May 18, 2011

Yeah it is not too bad at all. I was shocked considering how small the door speakers magnets are.

skedmond

· #8 · Oct 13, 2011

How much polyfill did you put in? I know a rule of thumb is bout 1 lb/cu ft.
Also, is there much difference between polyfill and cotton? Just wondering, cuz it would be really easy for me to rip open an old pillow and stuff the enclosure with good ole cotton.

lldsandsll

· #9 · Oct 13, 2011

where can i get poly-fill and what does it run cost-wise?

skedmond

· #10 · Oct 13, 2011

can get it at craft stores. Micheal's and stuff like that. usually like $1/lb I think...

lldsandsll

· #11 · Oct 14, 2011

at $1/lb, why not get the poly-fill rather than ripping open a pillow?

skedmond

· #12 · Oct 15, 2011

^ yea, I read ya. I was really more curious if there was a difference between the 2

skedmond

· #13 · Oct 16, 2011

Ok, just an update for those who care. I did this and it really does make a difference. Just makes the sub sound better! cleaner, deeper and more responsive. Worth the effort. and CHEAP.
to answer my own question... I went to walmart for PolyFill. was like $4-5 for 16 oz. then I saw a pillow for $2, looked and sure enough, the stuffing was "Poly Fill"

I stuffed the box with about 1/3-1/2 of the pillow stuffing. Took total of about 30-45 minutes to git-er-dun.

lldsandsll

· #14 · Oct 17, 2011

appreciate the update. i didn't get around to it this weekend, but now i'm more motivated to get it done.

maxboy

· #15 · Oct 17, 2011

awesome, i will do this later, but i have few question, it is just stuff and fill the box right behind the sub then close it up? do we need to aware of wires that could potentially light up those polyfill?

skedmond

· #16 · Oct 17, 2011 (Edited)

^I am no expert, but they are just speaker wires I have never seen speaker wires cause a spark. Just like I've never seen video cables cause a spark. They aren't sending power; just signal. Again, this is just my understanding based on experience. Technically there probably is some kind of low negligable voltage going through the speaker wires, but not enough to cause any harm...? IDk

But to answer your question, yea thats all you do. Stuffing the box takes like 30 seconds. its getting it out and putting it back in that takes time.

lldsandsll

· #17 · Nov 1, 2011

I just did this last night. It wasn't a terrible job at all. I forgot to plug the sub in and put everything back together, luckily the plug was accessible via the panel door.

My assessment of this is that the poly-fill does exactly what everyone said, and what you should expect. Qualitatively, it made the car sound like it has a large speaker box in the trunk. Definitely an improvement over stock.

Next step is upgrading the sub. Just gotta work out some details. I'm between a JL Audio 8" w3v3, and the Infinity Reference 8". The Infinity had awesome reviews, is less expensive, and has greater power potential, but the JL is a JL and power ratings mean nothing when it comes to JL.

Any recommendations on amps? Also, will swapping the sub and throwing in an amp be OK without touching the head unit?

justinf67

· #18 · Nov 2, 2011

I did mine just now, didnt take any more than 20-30 min from start to finish. Once I turned it back on, the bass was much better! Sound output from the same song was much harder. Sub hits deeper and for louder for midrange stuff. Very happy I took the time to do this

skedmond

· #19 · Nov 2, 2011

ha, I told you! Yea, still loving that I took the time to poly fill also. :thumbup:

hyeah:

zoltiz

· #20 · Nov 2, 2011

Time to gut some pillows...

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