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Swift CRZ Springs Installed and tested!!

DIY info: (Note: Installation should be done by an experienced person.)
Fronts

Step 1: Jack up your car on all 4 jack points.


Step 2: Take off all 4 wheels via 19mm socket wrench.



Step 3: Remove Brake line from shock body via 12mm socket wrench.



Step 4: Unclip ABS sensor and rubber grommets.


Step 5: Remove Sway bar End-link from shock body via 14mm socket wrench. Note: without air tools may have to use allen key wrench and 14mm open wrench.


Step 6: Remove two 19mm Shock bolts from Knuckle via 19mm socket wrench. Note: without air tools you may have to use a breaker bar and 19mm open wrench to hold the nut.



Step 7: Remove rubber cap from shock tower.


Step 8: Remove shock tower nut via allen key wrench and 17mm open wrench. Once unbolted the shock should drop right out from the bottom.




Step 9: Place shock onto a spring compressor and compress spring to release pressure from the top hat.


Step 10: Remove top hat nut via 19mm socket wrench. Note: without air you will have to use a 19mm open wrench and allen key wrench.


Step 11: Remove stock spring from the shock body.


Step 12: Remove bump stop from top hat.



Step 13: Cut the bump stop 1inch or 25mm (If you skip this process the bump stops will surely sit on the shock body changing the comfort, handling and shock modulation in a NEGATIVE way. THIS MUST BE DONE IN THE FRONT & REAR)


Step 14: Reassemble Top had and bump stop. (super pain)


Step 15: Reassemble new swift spring, top hat etc back onto the shock body and bolt down the 19mm nut.


Step 16: Now reinstall the Macpherson strut assembly back into the car in reverse order.
 

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REAR Springs install

Step 1: Via flat head screw driver gently pry open the rear trunk panels on the left and right to reveal the shock tower nuts.
(sorry no pick)

Step 2: Via 14mm open wrench and allen key wrench unbolt the shock tower nut.
(sorry no pick)

Step 3: Unbolt the Left & Right lower shocks from the subframe via 14mm.


Step 4: Remove rear shocks.
(sorry no pic)

Step 5: Cut bump stops on the rear shocks 1inch or 25mm.
(sorry no pic)

Please Note: The top of the shock has a long washer that holds the rubber grommets in. The washer cannot be removed from the top of the shock without damaging the threads of the shock rod, because it has a locking notch in it. The dust cover must be cut with a razor carefully in order to reveal the bump stop. (Freaking WEAKSOS!) I cut mine off and then carefully cut off 25mm from the bottom of the bump stop while on the shock body. Then I glued the dust cover back together and used Black Duck tape to hold it back together. (SUPER GHETTO!! I'm Sorry, no other way, unless I wanted to risk screwing up the shock threads.)

Step 6: Remove Stock springs from the subframe.


Step 7: Install stock rubber grommets onto new swift springs.


Step 8: Install new rear swift springs and shocks.


Step 9: Install the top shock nut and washer inside the trunk.
(sorry no pic)

Step 10: Reinstall the left and right trunk panels.


Here are photos of the CRZ before and after the swift spring install.

Before:

After:


Original Ride Height: (measured from ground to fender/quarter panel)


Front Left Front Right
655mm (25.78in) 660mm (25.98in)

Rear Left Rear Right
665mm (26.18in) 670mm (26.37in)

Swift Spring Ride Height:

Front Left Front Right
625mm (24.6in) 630mm (24.8in)

Rear Left Rear Right
636mm (25.03in) 640mm (25.19in)
 

· Capt'n Jack
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Dude, I'm no mechanic, but appears you have provided an excellent product to the group here. Good job and thanks.
 

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Lowering springs are generally going to be heavier I would think because even though it is shorter it is stiffer.

Swifts site says their springs are lighter but that is only if you compare them apple to apples. So for example a 5kg spring in Swift wouold be lighter than a 5kg Eibach spring.

Dude the CRZ looks good with those springs by the way. I cant wait to get my set.
Expect a full review when I have the springs installed on my car.

Thanks for the DIY!
 

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Step 13: Cut the bump stop 1inch or 25mm (If you skip this process the bump stops will surely sit on the shock body changing the comfort, handling and shock modulation in a NEGATIVE way. THIS MUST BE DONE IN THE FRONT & REAR)


do you HAVE to trim the bump stops? i don't understand why this needs to be done despite the explanation. This has to be done for all lowering spring installs? i dont remember seeing this done on another car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^ Yes, you have to cut the bump stops otherwise the they will sit on the shock body and not allow shock modulation. With the stock spring installed at the static height, there is 1 inch of gap between the bump stop and the shock body. After lowering it, there is none. I promise you if you skip this step the car will ride rougher and understeer dramatically more, reducing handling to less than favorable.
 

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i did some research and some springs specifically tell you not to cut them and some do. Even swift in their instructions supposedly say that some cars need it done and some dont. On the cars that need it done sometimes its only the front, rear or both. When i get the springs and read the directions i'll know for sure. I'll just follow Swift's recommendation.
 

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REAR Springs install

Step 5: Cut bump stops on the rear shocks 1inch or 25mm.
(sorry no pic)

Please Note: The top of the shock has a long washer that holds the rubber grommets in. The washer cannot be removed from the top of the shock without damaging the threads of the shock rod, because it has a locking notch in it. The dust cover must be cut with a razor carefully in order to reveal the bump stop. (Freaking WEAKSOS!) I cut mine off and then carefully cut off 25mm from the bottom of the bump stop while on the shock body. Then I glued the dust cover back together and used Black Duck tape to hold it back together. (SUPER GHETTO!! I'm Sorry, no other way, unless I wanted to risk screwing up the shock threads.)
Just wanted to add my tip here after I installed my swift springs yesterday. Now I know you didnt want to risk messing up the threads on your struts...but I didnt want to cut my dust shield. So here is what I came up with.

Sorry...I should have taken some pics...but I think you will get the idea.

The long washer has a slit up the side opposite of locking notch. I managed to get it to pry open enough with a few taps of a hammer and a small screwdriver...then followed that up with a little bit larger of a screwdriver...then twisted the screwdriver while in the slit to really open it up...it slide off the strut easily then.

hmm...wow...just reread that...and I must have a dirty mind.... :eek:fftopic:

anyway...the bumpstop can be modified easily at this point and then put back with no damage to the dust cover or threads....slide the washer back on and use a vise or something to lock that washer back into the notch where it belongs.

hope this helps.

Jb
 

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i just installed my swift springs last night and i only had to cut the bump stops up front, just an FYI. and also wanted to let yall know that when we dropped the suspension the cv joint must have popped out somehow, and we had a hard time putting it back together, till we found out the cv joint had popped out, once we realized that it was a breeze, so watch out for that guys, i was pretty frusterated lol.
 
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