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Red&Black
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Okay so I noticed that everyone specified that they have spacers on their rear wheels. Is there a reason for this? Why not put spacers on front wheels to match ?
People like to put 20mm spacers on their rear wheels because the rear wheels on the crz are more sunken in than the front wheels. The front wheels are already almost flush to the body of the car, 20mm in the rear makes the back end look more flush.
 

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I was looking into doing this also and wondered if anyone noticed any difference in the handling either positive or negative, after installing the spacers? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.


Neil
 

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I was looking into doing this also and wondered if anyone noticed any difference in the handling either positive or negative, after installing the spacers? Any feedback is appreciated, thank you.


Neil
Almost no one here competes at Honda Challenge level where something like this would definitely make a difference but from a technical aspect if you are concerned with absolute performance you would be better off with no spacers at all, neither front nor rear. If you had to space to clear different front calipers ok (but even at HC level stock CR-Z brake calipers would be more than adequate with the right pad and fluid), but spacing out the rear on a FWD will always be counter performance. This can be elaborated on as to why but its been explained countless times on here.

Spacing out the rear on a FWD is cosmetically/aesthetically motivated (its based on subjective preference). Will you notice a difference? Probably not. Would an experienced advanced/instructor level HPDE-er notice, probably if they took the time to do an unbiased back to back test.

Negatives right off the bat: increased leverage on the hub, reduced wheel/spring rate, increased wear and stress on wheel bearings and suspension bushings, increased possibility of wheel stud/lug failure, increased potential for balancing issues, increased scrub radius.

Positives: fitting-in with a trend which God-willing will someday pass.
 

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Not to mention safety if you do not replace your studs or are not careful in how you install them!>:)

Almost no one here competes at Honda Challenge level where something like this would definitely make a difference but from a technical aspect if you are concerned with absolute performance you would be better off with no spacers at all, neither front nor rear. If you had to space to clear different front calipers ok (and even at HC level stock CR-Z brake calipers would be more than adequate with the right pad and fluid), but spacing out the rear on a FWD will always be counter performance. This can be elaborated on as to why but its been explained countless times on here.

Spacing out the rear on a FWD is cosmetic/aesthetically motivated. Will you notice a difference? Probably not. Would an experienced advanced/instructor level HPDE-er notice, probably if they took the time to do an unbiased back to back test.

Negatives right off the bat: increased leverage on the hub, reduced wheel/spring rate, increased wear and stress on wheel bearings and suspension bushings, increased possibility of wheel stud/lug failure.

Positives: fitting-in with a trend which God-willing will someday pass.
 

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Thank you very much for the very thorough explanation, and yes I was lazy and didn't search at all for the answer but happened upon this thread by searching the interweb. So what you're saying is that I'll look good....so buy them?

Just kidding, I figured the track was larger in front for numerous issues but never heard any explained, though I will admit I didn't look very hard. I have been thinking about the "it will put more leverage on the hub" statement, if all components are connected then wouldn't getting wider wheels move the center of gravity (or pivot point/whatever it's called) further out also? Honestly curious and am glad you took the time to respond to my first half-ass response, thank you very much.


Neil
 

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If thats the look you want by all means get them just be aware of the potential issues and take additional care whenever mounting wheels. H&R's spacers are very high quality if you want to take a look at them as well, probably the nicest albeit pricey. I've only used spacers temporarily alongside ARP extended wheel studs to clear Spoon calipers on an old Honda until wheels that clear arrived. Never had any problems but I've personally seen serious issues and know plenty who have had horrific experiences (wheel coming loose on freeway sending them into jersey barrier/k-rail, wheel stud/lugnut failure and wheels coming off on-track etc).

On the technical performance side again unless you're driving at an advanced level on closed course tracks it likely won't make any difference positive or negative on performance but the wear issues will remain which depending on the amount of spacing may be negligible and will depend on driving style, road conditions and so on.
 

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Even if I did go that route I think it would only be 12mm, which I don't think would require longer studs but I probably would replace them for peace of mind. I'd really like to get a set of wider, staggered wheels but the lack of ability to rotate just blows, especially with a FWD car.

Again I appreciate your input and the time it took for you to respond, it's amazing how much you know about something that technically 99.999% of the population would never notice the difference of.

Neil
 

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Even if I did go that route I think it would only be 12mm, which I don't think would require longer studs but I probably would replace them for peace of mind. I'd really like to get a set of wider, staggered wheels but the lack of ability to rotate just blows, especially with a FWD car.

Again I appreciate your input and the time it took for you to respond, it's amazing how much you know about something that technically 99.999% of the population would never notice the difference of.

Neil
If you want to do staggered you can get symmetrical/asymmetrical tires (as opposed to directional) and rotate side to side. On the upside the rear tires would last a long time but the front pair would need to be replaced more frequently than if doing normal front/rear rotations.
 

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AFAIK to replace studs they need to be hammered out. Sometimes if you use a tap you can clean up the threads or use a good lug nut to thread on properly and off again.
Parts available here RockAuto

Anyone have the pictures for this DIY? Trying to replace my rear studs since they were cross threaded.
 

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AFAIK to replace studs they need to be hammered out. Sometimes if you use a tap you can clean up the threads or use a good lug nut to thread on properly and off again.
Parts available here RockAuto
Taps are used to fix threaded holes. Dies are used to fix the threads on studs, screws, bolts Etc.
 

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I wouldn't bother chasing the threads ("cleaning them up"). The studs are easy to replace on the CR-Z and Honda seemingly made a whole mountain of wheel studs that were sub-par and prone to threading issues for a while, chasing them only temporarily puts off the inevitable in my experience.

On the rears as Spdbump noted just hammer them out. On the front rotate the hub until the bad stud is lined up with the little notch on the knuckle and then hammer.

Installing new stud, washers to prevent bottoming the nut, do not use the nut that was used for stud-install for wheel mounting:


Attempted chasing with no luck, replaced before it got real bad.
 

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:( If they do not know how to properly install lug nuts then that is a shop that will be 2 trips in one (first and last) and once you get it repaired get them to pay.

That is such a basic thing when working on a car. They are supposed to use the Air wrench with a torque stick or be gentle and do the final torque with a proper torque wrench. No matter how they tighten they are supposed to start the lug nut by hand to not cross thread.

They owe you replacement studs at their expense!

I should have clarified. The lugs were torqued on by a shop and cross threaded so on removal 3 out of 5 studs snapped off :)
 

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:( If they do not know how to properly install lug nuts then that is a shop that will be 2 trips in one (first and last) and once you get it repaired get them to pay.

That is such a basic thing when working on a car. They are supposed to use the Air wrench with a torque stick or be gentle and do the final torque with a proper torque wrench. No matter how they tighten they are supposed to start the lug nut by hand to not cross thread.

They owe you replacement studs at their expense!
I wish I could take it back for them to replace but I bought the car this way, so it's my problem to fix. I ended up just cutting a bit of the shield and pulling the studs through with wrenches and a socket. Good to go!
63938
 
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