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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the 20mm spacers on the back today, found the Ichiba website pretty lacking in terms of the specifics for the CR-Z so I figured I would put this together. Please note, we wound up using a very specific method to get the extended studs into the hub given that the CR-Z has a dustcover behind the rotor that shields the TP sensor.


Overall time for DIY, probably around 1 1/2 hours, depending upon how quickly you can get the car jacked up and down.

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To begin with, remove the lugnuts and remove the wheel. I don't think we need a picture for that. After that release the rear brake caliper bolts and also the parking brake. To make it easier to release I recommend releasing the brake line from it's mount. No need to disconnect it though. (Should be 4 bolts overall I believe).

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Next remove the rotor by releasing the two screws

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Next release the cover behind the rotor, this has 2 bolts, plus a third that holds the TP sensor package in place. Carefully pull the sensor package back so that you can work easier. We are going to rotate this piece slightly to allow us to remove and replace the studs.

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Remove the existing studs with a hammer and a pair of longnose pliers. We simply pulled the stud out through the larger holes using the longnose pliers after we had hammered the stud out.

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This step was very specific to us, we analysed ways to do this and came up with this as the easiest and quickest way to take care of this. Rotate the cover 90 degrees until the gap that was on the side is positioned at the top so that you can get access easier. Then simply cut a small notch out of the cover using metal snips to allow you to insert the new studs (given that they are too long to just feed through the holes that we removed the old studs through). If anyone knows a better method by all means let me know and I can include it here

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Above you can see the notch that we cut and bent back, Simply tap the bolts into place, then rotate the hub, tap another in and keep going. This was by far the easiest and quickest way we found to do this.

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Next, to make sure the studs are tight place the rotor back on, then the spacer and then place the wheel back on. Gently tighten the lugnuts until you feel them pull out a little. At this point do not tighten them fully as the installation isn't complete yet.

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Next remove the wheel, spacer and rotor, rotate the dust cover to the original postion, reinsert the TP sensor back and bolt it all back into place. At this point also bend the "flap" that you cut back into place, when you place the rotor back on it will hold in place without a problem.

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Next replace the rotor and screw it back into place.

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Replace the caliper, bolt back into place, reattach the parking brake the remount the brake line.

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Thread the spacer onto the studs and replace the wheel and you're pretty much done. Repeat the other side and you should be well away.
 

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Looks like a lot of work, but the end result is nice. :)
Good explanation and pix. I think even I might be able to do this.
Well done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Glad you liked it, it's not tough to be honest. But as I say, the notch cutting was the way we came up with. If you are careful you can get it back into place with no rub or chafing on the back of the rotor. Doing it this way we got the studs into place on the hub in a matter of minutes
 

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Way too complicated -___- get hub centric spacers and just throw them on
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Way too complicated -___- get hub centric spacers and just throw them on
I'd done some research prior to getting these and heard nothing but horror stories about the "bolt on" generic spacers including serious rattling, vibrations and wheels coming off the hub when going over bumps.

As far as the larger spacers go, anything over a few mm will require new studs anyway, so you have to go through this process if you want to add them anyways as the CR-Z stock studs are very short.
 

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Getting The hubcentric with the bolts on and properly torquing everything should have absolutely no issues. I ran my 20mm for months without any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have 25mm bolt on spacers on my rear wheels and haven't had any problems with them.
Getting The hubcentric with the bolts on and properly torquing everything should have absolutely no issues. I ran my 20mm for months without any issues.

Fair enough, can't argue with the truth on those then. I guess it comes down to a choice thing the end. I know the V2 Ichiba's are a little more $$$ but have the bolts already in them. I chose the V1 knowing what I had to do, just given my bad luck I didn't want to run the V2 as I would more than likely end up throwing a wheel :scared:
 

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Capt'n Jack
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Way too complicated -___- get hub centric spacers and just throw them on
Agreed. Not to bash the Ichiba.. But, Have the H&R's Hubcentrics since the beginning of 2011.. Work like a charm with no issues..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In truth it really isn't that tough. I went in knowing NOTHING about wheel spacers and was able to do this pretty easy. I like the fact that the Ichiba comes with new longer studs, plus the build quality on these things are amazing. I don't doubt for a second that there are other easier methods out there, each to their own I guess.
 

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Capt'n Jack
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Agreed.. No worries.. Looks great. :headbang: Keep it up.. What's next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well in terms of mods next is the Yellow HID fog conversion. I think there is a DIY for that already though so my next DIY will probably end up being the P2R downpipe, or the Basis Test pipe, whichever I go for as I don't think there is a DIY for them yet.
 

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I want to get the 25mm for all 4 do you think it will cause future problems when i put on my car? problems as going thru holes and deep bumps over and over, going mostly 90mph, ive heard it wears your bearings. I dont want to put them on if thats whats going to happen.
 

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Badger's concern/question is exactly mine...

The only mod I have in mind (and from reading multiple threads) is the 20MM H&R Trak spacers on the rear. I see that quite a few of you on this forum have them and, so far, nobody's complained about them - other than due to modifications in geometry/articulation.

So for the folks who've had them for a few years - any issues with bearing wear/wobble due to spacers? Particularly on factory offset wheels/tires?
 

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I always recommend that if you're going to do anything over a 7mm or so spacer, you might as well do a bolt on spacer (V2) that comes with studs pre-installed. That way you just need to bolt on the spacer, then bolt the wheel on to the spacer. Only issue that may arise is if your original studs are still longer then the spacer width. Then, if you don't have wheels with pockets on the back pad you will need to shave down your original studs to clear your wheel.
 

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I always recommend that if you're going to do anything over a 7mm or so spacer, you might as well do a bolt on spacer (V2) that comes with studs pre-installed. That way you just need to bolt on the spacer, then bolt the wheel on to the spacer. Only issue that may arise is if your original studs are still longer then the spacer width. Then, if you don't have wheels with pockets on the back pad you will need to shave down your original studs to clear your wheel.
Which different brands are you able to get? Looking for a good set.
 

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CORRUPT
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how did u remove the 2 screws holding the rotor coz mine won't even come off even with wd-40 need help
The way I ATTEMPT to get them off is use an air impact gun with the right size Phillips head. My 3/8" drive air impact works pretty good with the bits from my impact screw driver set. I've never had any luck with the actual impact screwdriver itself on these. You really need to bear down on it to keep it from camming out and striping the head.

What that said, some will still strip no matter what you do. Then all you need to is drill them out. I forget what size drill bit you need, but you want to completely drill off the head. Once you see the head start to spin a little, you are pretty much there and need to stop drilling. Then you can take off the rotor. With the rotor out of the way, the rest of the screw left in the threads should have a good amount sticking out that you can grab with some pliers or vice grips. It should spin out pretty easily now. For me, it has always been the head that is seized on the rotor and not the threads.
 

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Did the spacer you added change the look of your car? From the photo I can't really tell the difference? Can u post a before and after please ? I saw sonic post about these brand spacers and looking into getting some for my Crz. Much appreciated!
 

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Okay so I noticed that everyone specified that they have spacers on their rear wheels. Is there a reason for this? Why not put spacers on front wheels to match ?
 
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