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I'd just like to confirm that this part number is in fact correct, the Honda parts service gave me this number...which is for some cvt strainer.... 25420-rbl-003

I can order the part referenced in the original post on amazon here..... http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda...&qid=1450196008&sr=1-1&keywords=25430-plr-003

HOWEVER amazon is claiming that part DOES NOT fit my 2011 crz ex CVT.

Hopefully you guys can clear this up for me.
 

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I'd just like to confirm that this part number is in fact correct, the Honda parts service gave me this number...which is for some cvt strainer.... 25420-rbl-003

I can order the part referenced in the original post on amazon here..... Amazon.com: Genuine Honda (25430-PLR-003) Transmission Filter: Automotive

HOWEVER amazon is claiming that part DOES NOT fit my 2011 crz ex CVT.

Hopefully you guys can clear this up for me.
25430-PLR-003 is the correct part# for the filter--same for all model years. The strainer is 25420-RBL-003.

Strainer is #2 in this link:
http://www.myhondapartsstore.com/my...3544&trim=3DR / EX&trans=C Speed&view=normal

Filter is #12 here:
http://www.myhondapartsstore.com/my...3544&trim=3DR / EX&trans=C Speed&view=normal
 

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And this filter connects to the radiator then? Does it even filter ATF fluid if its connected to the rad?
Yes, by my understanding, the fluid is cooled (or warmed) via the radiator, then through the inline filter, and back into the transmission.
 

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Thanks so much, you have been very helpful.

Update: I scheduled a trans flush and told the dealer about this filter I wanted installed...of course they had no idea about it. So the guy tells me that the person doing the drain and refill can't install the filter because he is a "express" guy and a "line" guy would need to do it.

He's saying between $150 and $250 for labor....

Also he is claiming that it's too early (46k) to change out this filter.
What do you guys think about this BS? Lol.

Also wanted to ask....can this filter be changed after a flush is done? Don't they need to drain all the fluid out in order to get the filter off and on? Sigh. Damn dealer.
 

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Also wanted to ask....can this filter be changed after a flush is done? Don't they need to drain all the fluid out in order to get the filter off and on? Sigh. Damn dealer.
Technically yes, you could change the filter without draining all the fluid and just add CVT fluid to the proper level once you're done. I don't know how much will leak out when you remove the filter though, not all of it but don't know how much you'd need to add once you replaced the filter.
 

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So I did my wife's 2014 Z last week and all of the above is good information. When I drained the fluid (it pored like a double IPA) I captured as much as I could but I still spilled over at least a cup (US measurement.) So just the old fluid I didn't slop was a full 3.5 quarts. This is either the factory level or what the dealer did at the first service. The dip stick is a little hard to read as one side gets a smear above the full line but the other (bottom) shows a clear line of demarcation. The 3 quarts might just be for the fluid change alone, not the filter. The filter itself doesn't hold the extra 3/4 quart but pulling the hoses just might. The hoses hold a small amount but it also drains whatever cooling reservoir resides in the radiator. Just my theory. Just a bit of additional advice, get the OEM filter. I got one off Amazon that said it was OEM but I doubt it, says made in China. And the nut that holds the filter bracket is 10mm. I hear that they found a massive cache of 10mm sockets when they raided Area 51 so there might be some spares on eBay.
 

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I’d never do a transmission flush.
For conventional torque converter automatic transmissions, quick power flushes promoted by greedy chain fluid change centers have ruined so many automatic transmissions.... and mechanics on YouTube such as Scotty Kilmer strongly warns against it.
 

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I’d never do a transmission flush.
For conventional torque converter automatic transmissions, quick power flushes promoted by greedy chain fluid change centers have ruined so many automatic transmissions.... and mechanics on YouTube such as Scotty Kilmer strongly warns against it.
So you never change the fluid ever? Or just not the power flush with a cleaner? Proper maintenance requires change of fluid and filters it is mentioned in the service record book and has a code on the minder.
 

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I’d never do a transmission flush....
I don't think he was talking about a forced-flush, but just a drain and refill. I've heard the same stories you have, but any time I refer to flushing the trans, coolant, brake, or clutch fluids, I'm just talking about drain the old; put in the new.
 

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You mean as in never changing it? That poor transmission. :confused: I would not want the power flush but a proper drain fill with filters changed a little more frequently than Honda recommends I would think is a good thing and I have had it done.
I don't think he was talking about a forced-flush, but just a drain and refill. I've heard the same stories you have, but any time I refer to flushing the trans, coolant, brake, or clutch fluids, I'm just talking about drain the old; put in the new.
 

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Well, this post came up after my search of CVT oil change so please don't "old thread" BS me. I have a 2011 CRZ that I changed the CVT fluid (it took 3.4 qts.) and did not change the filter. The uptake (accel) is much better with no "rubber banding" and I used Valvoline CVT synthetic @ $7.50 a quart. The stupid battery assist has woken up and likes this new fluid. All in all A a good experience. FWIW, drained, got new crush washer, added, brought up to temp, shifted several times while stationary, topped off (between the upper dots) and then drove. It has been sooo much better. No matter what your concerns are about the details, THIS FLUID NEEDS TO BE CHANGED REGULARLY!.
 

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Well, this post came up after my search of CVT oil change so please don't "old thread" BS me. I have a 2011 CRZ that I changed the CVT fluid (it took 3.4 qts.) and did not change the filter. The uptake (accel) is much better with no "rubber banding" and I used Valvoline CVT synthetic @ $7.50 a quart. The stupid battery assist has woken up and likes this new fluid. All in all A a good experience. FWIW, drained, got new crush washer, added, brought up to temp, shifted several times while stationary, topped off (between the upper dots) and then drove. It has been sooo much better. No matter what your concerns are about the details, THIS FLUID NEEDS TO BE CHANGED REGULARLY!.
Hey! welcome and thanks for the input! I’ve been waiting for some reports of real world use of CVT fluids other than Honda CVT.

I have few questions:
1. how many miles did you change it at?
2. what does “stupid battery assist has woken up“ mean? was there a problem prior that went away?

thanks!
 

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Use alternatives at your own risk. Places that service my CVT recommend every 50 K (or go by the minder) and don't forget the inline filter which is listed as a radiator part..

Hey! welcome and thanks for the input! I’ve been waiting for some reports of real world use of CVT fluids other than Honda CVT.

I have few questions:
1. how many miles did you change it at?
2. what does “stupid battery assist has woken up“ mean? was there a problem prior that went away?

thanks!
 

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Can someone show me a photo of the inline filter installed? The OP lists "8. Next is the CVT transmission filter change. Here is a picture of the filter in the red box:" but I don't see the photo. I got a general description about where I should find the inline filter, but I want to make sure for the next CVT change. Also, would someone list the OEM parts No of this filter? The manual did not say anything about this inline filter. At the last B13 Maintenance Minder code on my Son's 15 CRZ, I just drain and filled fluid and did not do the filter. He bought it used, so that was the first CVT change I had to do on the car.
 
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