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I was hoping to consolidate the CVT fluid and filter change DIY, and add a more descriptive one with pictures.
I decided to change the fluid in my car at 20k miles. Honda says it should be done at 30k miles, but from the looks of it people (Civic CVTs, Insight CVTs, ect) recommend changing it around 20k along with the filter. The fluid on the CVT dipstick will look nice and clean, but when you change the fluid you will see it’s black.
Depending on the mileage and regular maintenance of your car, you may want to consider doing a flush. If you want to go this way, you will have to do the DIY 2-3 times or until the fluid is a normal orange color. The CVT transmission is NOT the same as a normal automatic transmission that use ATF. Automatic transmissions that use ATF more than likely have a torque converter, elaborate fluid mazes with check valves, ect. Those can easily hold GALLONS of ATF fluid and SHOULD be flushed by someone with machines than can force new fluid in while removing the old fluid.
I ordered Honda CVT fluid because from what I’ve read its best to stick with it. I ordered the fluid off Ebay for cheaper than what a dealer wanted, so shop around. I also ordered the CVT filter and crush washers online just because it was easier lol.
You're supposed to change the fluid when the car is hot, but I let it cool down for 20 minutes first.
Here is what you will need:
A. 4 quarts of Honda CVT fluid
B. Phillips screwdriver
C. 2 Flathead screwdrivers (one large and one “normal” sized)
D. 3/8 ratchet
E. 3/8 torque wrench
F. Transmission filter 25430-plr-003
G. Long neck funnel
H. Drain pan
I. A way to put the car in the air
J. I believe a 10mm wrench (Sorry, I can't remember what size it was. I will update it when I change the oil)
K. Gloves. I used latex gloves I picked up from some auto chain store. I use these mostly to protect from hot liquids.
L.18mm crush washer
M. Pliers
So on with the DIY:
1. Open the hood and remove the CVT fluid dipstick (this will make the exiting fluid flow better)
2.. Put the car in the air safely.
3. Remove the large front underbody cover. It’s the same underbody cover you need to remove to access the motor oil drain plug and filter. There will be Phillips screws and those plastic, “push clips” that you use a flathead screwdriver to pry the centers up. I would also recommend removing ALL the little metal clips that were used to hold the phillips screws in place for the covers (see step 18 for reason).
4. Remove the CVT drain plug access cover (picture below)

5. Insert the 3/8 ratchet into the CVT drain plug and place the drainpan more towards the outside of the vehicle. The fluid stream will come out a few inches at full flow, so be ready.
5A.If you jacked up only the front of the car, you will want to lower the front of the vehicle down to get more fluid out.
5B. Once the fluid stops coming out, safely put the car back into the air.
6. Inspect and clean the CVT drain plug. Its magnetic, so anything stuck to it is metal. Remove the old crush washer and put the new 18mm crush washer on.
7. Torque the CVT drain plug to 36 lbf-ft (49 N-m).
8. Next is the CVT transmission filter change. Here is a picture of the filter in the red box:

9. Leave the CVT filter bolted in place. Using the pliers move the hose clamps away from the filter so you can remove the hoses. Place the drainpan under the filter and hoses.
10.This will be the hardest part of the whole job; removing the hoses. I ended up having to use a huge flathead screwdriver to help pry the hoses off. Once you remove both hoses, unbolt the filter from the engine block.
11. Install the new filter, connect the hoses, and move the clamps back to the original position.
12. Remove the drainpan and if the car is not level, make it so.
13. Under the hood, insert the long funnel into the CVT dipstick hole:

14. Put one quart in and see if there are any leaks under the car. If not, then put in another 2.5 quarts.
15. Start the car. Immediately check for any leaks under the car.
16. If there are no leaks, you have to let the car warm up to its operating temperature. You can speed up the process by running the car at a higher RPM, but do NOT drive the car. You will want the radiator fans to turn on. Always continue to check for any leaks.
17. Once the radiator fans are on you can turn the car off. Remove the funnel and use the CVT dipstick to check the fluid level. Add until the fluid line is at MAX. The total CVT fluid used should be ~3.8 quarts.
18. Now go drive for a few minutes while being cautious for any smoke, fluid on the ground, noise, ect. If you did not remove the little metal clips, you will probably lose a few.
19. Check the CVT fluid level. If the fluid level is ok put the car back safely in the air and check for any leaks. If there are no leaks, put the metal clips back in, put all the covers back on; you’re done son.
I decided to change the fluid in my car at 20k miles. Honda says it should be done at 30k miles, but from the looks of it people (Civic CVTs, Insight CVTs, ect) recommend changing it around 20k along with the filter. The fluid on the CVT dipstick will look nice and clean, but when you change the fluid you will see it’s black.
Depending on the mileage and regular maintenance of your car, you may want to consider doing a flush. If you want to go this way, you will have to do the DIY 2-3 times or until the fluid is a normal orange color. The CVT transmission is NOT the same as a normal automatic transmission that use ATF. Automatic transmissions that use ATF more than likely have a torque converter, elaborate fluid mazes with check valves, ect. Those can easily hold GALLONS of ATF fluid and SHOULD be flushed by someone with machines than can force new fluid in while removing the old fluid.
I ordered Honda CVT fluid because from what I’ve read its best to stick with it. I ordered the fluid off Ebay for cheaper than what a dealer wanted, so shop around. I also ordered the CVT filter and crush washers online just because it was easier lol.
You're supposed to change the fluid when the car is hot, but I let it cool down for 20 minutes first.
Here is what you will need:
A. 4 quarts of Honda CVT fluid
B. Phillips screwdriver
C. 2 Flathead screwdrivers (one large and one “normal” sized)
D. 3/8 ratchet
E. 3/8 torque wrench
F. Transmission filter 25430-plr-003
G. Long neck funnel
H. Drain pan
I. A way to put the car in the air
J. I believe a 10mm wrench (Sorry, I can't remember what size it was. I will update it when I change the oil)
K. Gloves. I used latex gloves I picked up from some auto chain store. I use these mostly to protect from hot liquids.
L.18mm crush washer
M. Pliers
So on with the DIY:
1. Open the hood and remove the CVT fluid dipstick (this will make the exiting fluid flow better)
2.. Put the car in the air safely.
3. Remove the large front underbody cover. It’s the same underbody cover you need to remove to access the motor oil drain plug and filter. There will be Phillips screws and those plastic, “push clips” that you use a flathead screwdriver to pry the centers up. I would also recommend removing ALL the little metal clips that were used to hold the phillips screws in place for the covers (see step 18 for reason).
4. Remove the CVT drain plug access cover (picture below)

5. Insert the 3/8 ratchet into the CVT drain plug and place the drainpan more towards the outside of the vehicle. The fluid stream will come out a few inches at full flow, so be ready.
5A.If you jacked up only the front of the car, you will want to lower the front of the vehicle down to get more fluid out.
5B. Once the fluid stops coming out, safely put the car back into the air.
6. Inspect and clean the CVT drain plug. Its magnetic, so anything stuck to it is metal. Remove the old crush washer and put the new 18mm crush washer on.
7. Torque the CVT drain plug to 36 lbf-ft (49 N-m).
8. Next is the CVT transmission filter change. Here is a picture of the filter in the red box:

9. Leave the CVT filter bolted in place. Using the pliers move the hose clamps away from the filter so you can remove the hoses. Place the drainpan under the filter and hoses.
10.This will be the hardest part of the whole job; removing the hoses. I ended up having to use a huge flathead screwdriver to help pry the hoses off. Once you remove both hoses, unbolt the filter from the engine block.
11. Install the new filter, connect the hoses, and move the clamps back to the original position.
12. Remove the drainpan and if the car is not level, make it so.
13. Under the hood, insert the long funnel into the CVT dipstick hole:

14. Put one quart in and see if there are any leaks under the car. If not, then put in another 2.5 quarts.
15. Start the car. Immediately check for any leaks under the car.
16. If there are no leaks, you have to let the car warm up to its operating temperature. You can speed up the process by running the car at a higher RPM, but do NOT drive the car. You will want the radiator fans to turn on. Always continue to check for any leaks.
17. Once the radiator fans are on you can turn the car off. Remove the funnel and use the CVT dipstick to check the fluid level. Add until the fluid line is at MAX. The total CVT fluid used should be ~3.8 quarts.
18. Now go drive for a few minutes while being cautious for any smoke, fluid on the ground, noise, ect. If you did not remove the little metal clips, you will probably lose a few.
19. Check the CVT fluid level. If the fluid level is ok put the car back safely in the air and check for any leaks. If there are no leaks, put the metal clips back in, put all the covers back on; you’re done son.