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It says in the manual 10W30 is acceptable to use. I used to put that in my Del Sol when I had it. I was thinking of buying a jug of Mobil synthetic 10W30 and changing the oil several times over the course of a engine oil changes so that it gets flushed good. I just bought the car and it has 120k on and who knows how the previous owner maintained it.

Are any of you guys using 10W30 in your trans?
 

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It says in the manual 10W30 is acceptable to use. I used to put that in my Del Sol when I had it. I was thinking of buying a jug of Mobil synthetic 10W30 and changing the oil several times over the course of a engine oil changes so that it gets flushed good. I just bought the car and it has 120k on and who knows how the previous owner maintained it.

Are any of you guys using 10W30 in your trans?
I'm only using Honda MTF, but I think you've got your specs wrong about the 10W30 for the CR-Z. Service Manual says only use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) and the Owner's Manual states that you can use 0w20 or 5w20 as a temporary measure, but refill with Honda MTF at the earliest possible opportunity. You'll notice it shifting better with MTF, but if you want to give it a swig of 5w20 for a short while, and then back to MTF, it wouldn't hurt for limited use, although I'd just put in MTF now, and change again at 150,000; then every 50,000 miles after that (and that might be considered overdoing it.) :grin2:
 

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I'm only using Honda MTF, but I think you've got your specs wrong about the 10W30 for the CR-Z. Service Manual says only use Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) and the Owner's Manual states that you can use 0w20 or 5w20 as a temporary measure, but refill with Honda MTF at the earliest possible opportunity. You'll notice it shifting better with MTF, but if you want to give it a swig of 5w20 for a short while, and then back to MTF, it wouldn't hurt for limited use, although I'd just put in MTF now, and change again at 150,000; then every 50,000 miles after that (and that might be considered overdoing it.) :grin2:
I am a maintenance guy for a living and I am sure I over do maintenance. I change the engine oil and filter in my truck every 5k miles with synthetic. It's changed at even intervals of 5k miles so it is easy to keep up wtih. I dropped the trans pan and changed the filter and fluid on it at 65k. I now pull a gallon of trans fluid out with a hand pump every 15k and replace it with new. I don't really plan on changing anything up for the CRZ. 5k oil changes, and probably 15k trans fluid chanages. We're only talking a little over $10-$15 per trans oil change with Honda fluid. I was thinking of running the Mobil to flush anything that may be in there for a few engine oil change cycles.
 

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You sound like my kind of maintenance guy. :smile2: I didn't mention it before, but back before most of the forum members were even a twinkle in their father's eyes, I'd use a kerosene/oil mix to flush out old engine/transmission oil if I thought it hadn't been changed in a long, long time, then refill with the correct oil/fluid. I'm sure there are mechanics out there that highly recommend NOT doing so, but letting some Mobil 1 do the cleaning/flushing out is probably a better idea since we've come a long way with the detergent properties of oil. If I bought a car with 120,000 miles on it, and was planing on keeping it for 120 or 200k more, I'd do exactly what you're doing.
 

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Unless you're driving it like a drag race car all the time 5000 mile oil changes and 15000 mile tranny fluid flushes are overkill. The maintenance minder does a pretty good job of letting you know when it needs stuff like that. But I get that old habits die hard.
 

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...But I get that old habits die hard.
Yeah, they die hard for me too... Used to be 3,000 mile oil change intervals, then I reluctantly went to 5,000 mile intervals some years ago. Getting the CR-Z, I was getting down right paranoid when I had 6,000 miles on the car and the maintenance minder said the oil was only at 50% use. Think I changed it at around 20%.
 

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Plans this weekend are to change the trans fluid and engine oil. Then I will be on my schedule from now on. I got a couple of quarts of Honda fluid from Amazon. I still want to run a few quarts of 10w30 for a while just to flush it out. Hmmm. I'll let you know what I decide to do and how it goes.
 

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Plans this weekend are to change the trans fluid and engine oil. Then I will be on my schedule from now on. I got a couple of quarts of Honda fluid from Amazon. I still want to run a few quarts of 10w30 for a while just to flush it out. Hmmm. I'll let you know what I decide to do and how it goes.
So here's the thing about the oil and transmission fluid. It is an emergency measure only. Honda specifically states that you need to replace it with MTF as soon as possible.

MTF is much more viscous than motor oil, and has additives for withstanding the higher RPMS that a transmission sees. Motor oil in the transmission can potentially whip into a froth, which is even less viscous than just the straight oil. MTF is intended to cling to the gears as they mesh with each other, but oil is meant to simply lubricate bearing surfaces. The fluids are engineered to serve two distinct purposes.

You're much better off putting in seafoam transmission fluid (Hydra Trans Tune) or Lucas Trans Fix if you really feel the need to use some sort of detergent in your MT.
 

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I changed the trans fluid with the Honda recommended fluid. That was an interesting Several hours of work. Now that it is done, it should be easier the next time. I ran out and got new fasteners for the plastic liners under the car. Several were missing and were not holding the panels very well. Everything is on the good side now. Should be good to go for a while now on the trans fluid. After I got everything apart and saw how much work it was to get in there, I decided that it was not that big of a deal to run the Honda stuff for a while and change it again later if I feel froggy.
 

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my experience gear oil change CRZ

Changed My Crz Gear oil with Honda Gear oil yesterday. 97,000 miles . 2011. may never have been changed. was notchy, now shifts like a Honda..butter smooth.. I find it interesting my last honda stick, a 1995 Accord the Owners Manual read any 10w 30 motor oil was fine. And my 3 Honda Motorcycles use the same oil for the pistons as it does the gears. Goldwing gears do not care.
Alas, I paid my $10 a quart for peace of mind.
My Drain plug and Filler cap were so tight I thought I would break my Craftsman 3/8" ratchet using a pipe extension. Thankfully they broke lose first. It took me 10 minutes to drain and fill on my 1985 Accord..this CRZ change took over an hour.
 

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Changed My Crz Gear oil with Honda Gear oil yesterday. 97,000 miles . 2011. may never have been changed. was notchy, now shifts like a Honda..butter smooth.. I find it interesting my last honda stick, a 1995 Accord the Owners Manual read any 10w 30 motor oil was fine. And my 3 Honda Motorcycles use the same oil for the pistons as it does the gears. Goldwing gears do not care.
Alas, I paid my $10 a quart for peace of mind.
My Drain plug and Filler cap were so tight I thought I would break my Craftsman 3/8" ratchet using a pipe extension. Thankfully they broke lose first. It took me 10 minutes to drain and fill on my 1985 Accord..this CRZ change took over an hour.
I was thinking the same thing, 10W30. I also want to echo what you found when trying to loosen the drain and fill. Those were WAY tighter than needed. Should be much easier the next time for both of us.
 

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Sont mean to revive an old thread, but im about to do mine this weekend and im windering why people are saying it took an hour? Looks like a simple transmission drain and fill, remove wheel and access panel, then the 2 bolts for draining and filling. With a fluid pump from oreilleys etc should be easy. Is there somthing im miss with "it taking hours"
 

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Sont mean to revive an old thread, but im about to do mine this weekend and im windering why people are saying it took an hour? Looks like a simple transmission drain and fill, remove wheel and access panel, then the 2 bolts for draining and filling. With a fluid pump from oreilleys etc should be easy. Is there somthing im miss with "it taking hours"
It took about an hour for me to do in my garage at home. The Undertray panel that has to come off is a bit of a pain to do carefully. it also has to be raised in the front and back to drain properly. I also remember it taking about 20 minutes to drain, and 10 minutes to fill due to fluid viscosity. Could cut down on that with a pump though, you're correct.
 

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It took about an hour for me to do in my garage at home. The Undertray panel that has to come off is a bit of a pain to do carefully. it also has to be raised in the front and back to drain properly. I also remember it taking about 20 minutes to drain, and 10 minutes to fill due to fluid viscosity. Could cut down on that with a pump though, you're correct.
Oh ok that makes sense
 

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It's been a year since I did it, so I could be mistaken, lol. I know I was doing a bunch of other stuff around the same time, so I may have taken off more undertray than was needed for the trans fluid change.
Ill be doing mine shortly ill be sure to post back lol we'll see if j run into any problems i doubt it. Ive changed tranny fluid on a 4x4 lifted tacoma but that was automatic and required dropping the pan and changing the tranny filter too. Only positive was access was easy due to being lifted lol
 

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Yeah, longest part about this job is jacking the car up so its level honestly.

Make sure you replace the crush washers on the bolts / nuts. Also, make sure you remove the old ones properly.

Whats strange is, from the factory I have never seen crush washers on the bolts, but, under the parts and in the FSM it lists them. I just found that a bit weird..

Every time I do this job, I use a brand new one of these:


I find they work perfect and at that cost, you can get a new one each time (no contamination).

Obviously, use a drip pan / drain pan, etc. Dont pollute. You can recycle the oil right away at like any autozone, or anywhere else that takes oil. Just tell them its mobil 1 oil.

Oh, and DEFINITELY use a torque on the bolts. These bolts are not something you want to mess up, and it can happen very easy.

Here are the torque specs:

Top Bolt - fill bolt - 34 ft/lbs
Bottom bolt - drain bolt - 29 ft/lbs
 

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Yeah, longest part about this job is jacking the car up so its level honestly.

Make sure you replace the crush washers on the bolts / nuts. Also, make sure you remove the old ones properly.

Whats strange is, from the factory I have never seen crush washers on the bolts, but, under the parts and in the FSM it lists them. I just found that a bit weird..

Every time I do this job, I use a brand new one of these:


I find they work perfect and at that cost, you can get a new one each time (no contamination).

Obviously, use a drip pan / drain pan, etc. Dont pollute. You can recycle the oil right away at like any autozone, or anywhere else that takes oil. Just tell them its mobil 1 oil.

Oh, and DEFINITELY use a torque on the bolts. These bolts are not something you want to mess up, and it can happen very easy.

Here are the torque specs:

Top Bolt - fill bolt - 34 ft/lbs
Bottom bolt - drain bolt - 29 ft/lbs
Good tips, thanks for the torque specs!

You guys just using the eye ball method for leveling the vehicle, i imagine if its a little off it wont hurt as long as the fluid is resting more towards the opening off the hole. Whaf i mean is the car isnt sagging back away from the transmission drain hole. I guess ill find out if 1.5 was it quarts, doesnt come out lol.

Last transmission jndrained and filled i used a bucket with quarts markings and put back exactly what i took out
 

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Good tips, thanks for the torque specs!

You guys just using the eye ball method for leveling the vehicle, i imagine if its a little off it wont hurt as long as the fluid is resting more towards the opening off the hole. Whaf i mean is the car isnt sagging back away from the transmission drain hole. I guess ill find out if 1.5 was it quarts, doesnt come out lol.

Last transmission jndrained and filled i used a bucket with quarts markings and put back exactly what i took out
When I did it.. i actually used a level on the transmission itself to try and get it level, and one on he top center part of the car. Honestly, not sure if this is the best way to do it.. but thats how I did it.

I too would like to know how does one get the car completely level? And where do you 'measure' from using a level? I figured measuring from the trans itself was the best thing to do, but, i dont know!!
 
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