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Then you can take your chances or wait.
In the past sometimes shipping from China has been faster than from within the US, but with the way things are who knows.
 

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Yes, but I see that one comes from China so try to find one that ships from within the US.
Also in case you don't realize it you will need a USB-serial adapter to connect it to the PC. Those are readily available and cheap but they may not all work, the first one I tried didn't.
I bought one of these directly from obdii365.com,
V3.103.066 HDS HIM Diagnostic Tool for Honda with Double Board (obdii365.com)

It included the USB->RS232 adaptor.

Arrived in 2 weeks.

Word of caution: the SW comes from China. Who knows what else cracked SW from China will include.

I wouldn't and didn't install it on my main laptop. I found an older laptop, installed Win7, and dedicated it to using it with this SW and tool.
The SW runs, detects the HW, I can run the loop back diags.

But beyond the diags, I haven't had a chance to actually plug it in to see if it works.
 

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It's been a while but one issue I recall having was the USB-serial adapter, the first one I tried didn't work but the second one did. I believe you got one with the unit so it should be compatible, but if you have another one on hand try it. Also make sure it's looking at the correct com port.
If you can't get it working contact the vendor and they should be able to help you.
 

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Wow, after fiddling with this thing for the past 2 days trying to get it to work I realized that I did not enter the car into the program :rolleyes:. Everything works now. What I wanted to see is the user capacity of the battery. I have owned this car for a month and have put about 1000 miles on it. The car has 207500 on the clock, so i was thinking that the battery would have a low user capacity but it is at 75% which I think is the highest it could be. I did have the 12v battery unplugged when I first got the car and maybe that reset the uc.
 

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I don't think the usable charge resets with a power loss, Peter can confirm if that is the case. Anyway if that's what you're seeing and the pack is performing well, you're in good shape.
 

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I've just confirmed that the Car Scanner app for Android is able to read the IMA parameters including SOC and USOC. The app lets you select a vehicle profile from a list, I chose Honda Hybrids and when it connected the data was available. This is cool, didn't think it was possible without HDS. Of course you still can't modify anything, to reset the USOC will require HDS or OBD C&C.
I also tried Torque Pro and the IMA items were not available, perhaps they can be added as custom PIDs.
 

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I've just confirmed that the Car Scanner app for Android is able to read the IMA parameters including SOC and USOC. The app lets you select a vehicle profile from a list, I chose Honda Hybrids and when it connected the data was available. This is cool, didn't think it was possible without HDS. Of course you still can't modify anything, to reset the USOC will require HDS or OBD C&C.
I also tried Torque Pro and the IMA items were not available, perhaps they can be added as custom PIDs.
Thanks a lot for checking! What OBD2 reader do you use? Also, what was your USOC? ;)
 

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As stated, the Android Car Scanner app with a cheap ELM327 Bluetooth adapter I bought a while ago to use with Torque.
My USOC is 75, I already knew that because I have both an HDS clone and Peter's C&C. It was much lower when I first got the car but I reset it (without a grid charge) almost a year ago and it's remained there.
 

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I also tried Torque Pro and the IMA items were not available, perhaps they can be added as custom PIDs.
Adding custom PID's might be possible,. but you have to know what they are. ;)
Obviously the PID's code etc for the various functions/data is a USP of my device.
I declined to give them the info for free when the Torque author asked. If they pay me a decent chunk I might.. ;)
 

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As you should. ;)
I did find it surprising that the Car Scanner app can do it out of the box, I have to try some different profiles on my other vehicles and see what's available on those.
 

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As stated, the Android Car Scanner app with a cheap ELM327 Bluetooth adapter I bought a while ago to use with Torque.
My USOC is 75, I already knew that because I have both an HDS clone and Peter's C&C. It was much lower when I first got the car but I reset it (without a grid charge) almost a year ago and it's remained there.
So you just reset the USOC to 75% and did nothing else, also no discharge cycle? Then this might be the go-to method for me. This is something I can do in the undergound parking of the appartment building I live in.

Have you ever tried the HDS clone on a Windows 10 laptop?
 

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Well my pack seems to be in very good shape and it didn't make sense for the USOC to be that low, it's almost like someone had replaced the pack at some point but didn't reset it. All of the other parameters look great and it performs well. I think I just got lucky.
 

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I've been meaning to ask about this awhile now. I get an "IMA temperature" readout under the hybrid Acura/honda profile, and that same reads as "battery coolant temp" under the Fit
GK3 or Insight II profile.

Is this a legitimate reading? (See photo)
If it is it's quite concerning! It always reads above 170F when ever I remember to plug the dongle in. No issues as far as I can tell.

I also wanted to see if anyone knew the accuracy of the other readings.

I took snapshots of the all sensors available too. Hopefully they'll be of some help to someone (I think these are from the Fit Profile, will update)

*The profiles have different names for some sensors as well as a couple of sensors with no reading at all :(
Font Gadget Multimedia Screenshot Darkness

Speedometer Plant Trip computer Light Gauge

Font Screenshot Technology Software Darkness

Font Screenshot Computer Number Darkness

Font Screenshot Number Slope Terrestrial plant

Font Screenshot Technology Number Slope

Font Slope Number Screenshot Parallel

Font Slope Electronic device Screenshot Software

Font Slope Screenshot Number Terrestrial plant
 

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Yeah dunno what's up with that since there is no battery coolant.
But what about that 31% usable capacity?
Ngl, I'm pretty green to this HV battery stuff. Breen trying to keep up with Peter Perkins threads and the stuff discussed here but man.. y'all AP courses and I feel like I'm in 3rd grade still.😭.

According to the butt-dyno, that readings probably accurate :/

Any guess on how much usability can be recovered doing the discharge/recharge thingy with the lamps and fans?
 
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