Hello...!!!
New owner, new member here. Been lurking here a few days mostly on performance subjects.
In particular for this post, I plan to "upgrade" the sound system. The factory system is among, if not the best I've heard, as far as factory systems go that is... but still subpar by my standards.
I have a few threads regarding max continuous power available to the 12V system. 22.5 or even 30 amps will just not get it for my tastes... and I don't need any jargon about music being dynamic power. WRMS power is WRMS power. Though technically the term is jargon in itself, it does represent a method of "averaging" the dynamic power of a suond system. A max of 30 amps at 12V equates to 360 WRMS, period. I'm designing my sound system as efficient in the watts to decibels department as I possibly can. But currently estimating I'll need more than 360 WRMS.
The discussion in the other threads I've read seem mostly based on what amounts to replacing the factory 12V battery with one having greater surge capacity (such as an Optima or Kinetic battery). FWIW, that only works for the short term...
I travel in my profession, i.e. 500+ miles one way to get to the job sites. Once there, I only commute until the job is done... then perhaps another 500+ miles back to the homestead. While I'll likely not be jamming at max decibels the entire trip, I can foresee discharging (to a degree) any battery on the long hauls. While heat is the number one destructive factor of electronics, undervoltage exacerbates the effect. Ultimately, I need to find a way to get more juice...!!!
So getting down to the nitty gritty, it currently amounts I cannot install (though I've not investigated the possibility of adding) an alternator with greater output... cuz' the Z has none. As I understand it, the 12V charging system relies on a DC-to-DC converter (i.e. volts to volts) and is the limiting factor. However, can easily be likened to and underrated alternator on non-hybrid cars.
So what do we do in that case? Generally two options or a combo thereof, and that is to get a beefier alternator, and/or install a second, or third (or fourth in extreme cases, given there's enough room... ) BTW, I have a full size chevy express conversion with a 11,000 WRMS A/V system and a single underrated 300A alternator, but two to five Kinetic 3800 batteries depending on whether I'm in competition mode or not ... so I do know what I'm talking about here.
Anyway, I'm currently seeking information on the DC2DC converter. Exactly where is it located? (pic's???) Exactly what is it called by Honda? ...or its part number? How was the 30A figure determined? Has anyone considered, looked into, or actually paralleled two or more of them?
New owner, new member here. Been lurking here a few days mostly on performance subjects.
In particular for this post, I plan to "upgrade" the sound system. The factory system is among, if not the best I've heard, as far as factory systems go that is... but still subpar by my standards.
I have a few threads regarding max continuous power available to the 12V system. 22.5 or even 30 amps will just not get it for my tastes... and I don't need any jargon about music being dynamic power. WRMS power is WRMS power. Though technically the term is jargon in itself, it does represent a method of "averaging" the dynamic power of a suond system. A max of 30 amps at 12V equates to 360 WRMS, period. I'm designing my sound system as efficient in the watts to decibels department as I possibly can. But currently estimating I'll need more than 360 WRMS.
The discussion in the other threads I've read seem mostly based on what amounts to replacing the factory 12V battery with one having greater surge capacity (such as an Optima or Kinetic battery). FWIW, that only works for the short term...
I travel in my profession, i.e. 500+ miles one way to get to the job sites. Once there, I only commute until the job is done... then perhaps another 500+ miles back to the homestead. While I'll likely not be jamming at max decibels the entire trip, I can foresee discharging (to a degree) any battery on the long hauls. While heat is the number one destructive factor of electronics, undervoltage exacerbates the effect. Ultimately, I need to find a way to get more juice...!!!
So getting down to the nitty gritty, it currently amounts I cannot install (though I've not investigated the possibility of adding) an alternator with greater output... cuz' the Z has none. As I understand it, the 12V charging system relies on a DC-to-DC converter (i.e. volts to volts) and is the limiting factor. However, can easily be likened to and underrated alternator on non-hybrid cars.
So what do we do in that case? Generally two options or a combo thereof, and that is to get a beefier alternator, and/or install a second, or third (or fourth in extreme cases, given there's enough room... ) BTW, I have a full size chevy express conversion with a 11,000 WRMS A/V system and a single underrated 300A alternator, but two to five Kinetic 3800 batteries depending on whether I'm in competition mode or not ... so I do know what I'm talking about here.
Anyway, I'm currently seeking information on the DC2DC converter. Exactly where is it located? (pic's???) Exactly what is it called by Honda? ...or its part number? How was the 30A figure determined? Has anyone considered, looked into, or actually paralleled two or more of them?