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Thanks YLA :thumbsup:

Looking at the Hardware compatibility for Dashboard:
- ELM compatible Wifi (OBDLink, PLX Kiwi Wifi +iMFD, OBDKey WLAN)
- Innovate Motorsports OT-2
- goPoint Technology's goLINK

Anybody knows, if I need to get the PLX Kiwi Wifi +iMFD or I can just take the PLX Kiwi Wifi? There are quite a lot of money in difference.
EDIT: a little search showed the both the Kiwi Wifi +iMFD and Kiwi Wifi are supported (http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/iphone/hardware.php)

At the moment I'm hooked on the Innovate Motorsports OT-2.

Gotta go check out the storage options in the CR-Z , so it can be permanently connected :)
 

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It seems at the Kiwi Wifi or Innovate Motorsports OT-2 can be placed right under the steering wheel. Inside the grey plastic cover beneath the steering wheel, there is a kind of plastic "plateau" with white "cloth" on top. For me it looks like at perfect place.

Just need to figure out how to kerp it fixed there. :)
 

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nice :thumbsup:
Anybody located the OBDII port on the CR-Z?
Apparently (google), it is normally located at the drivers side?
It's 99% always on the drivers side of the car I don't think I've seen otherwise. CRZ its close to your right knee if you are sitting in the driver's seat with your feet on tbe pedals. No cover or anything its just there past the plastic.

Edit: also before you kick up tons of cash for one of these canned units you may want to look at a cheaper alternative of amazon or ebaying an ELM327->USB or Wireless module. You can get them for 35 shipped and then just use a laptop to log for free. The iphone apps are cool there is a similar called torque on android.
 

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I have the Kiwi WiFi and it's great. The +iMDF version is only if you plan on adding on additional aftermarket sensors form Kiwi.

The OBDII port on the USDM CR-Z is under the dash to the right of the steering wheel. It's kind of far back compared to most cars. You really need to get under it and look up to see it, but its not hard to plug into once you know where it is.

I currently use Rev with the Kiwi-Wifi. I really don't plug it in that often but when I do it's really handy. What I most often use it for is to help friends and family diagnose/clear check-engine lights.

I've been thinking about buying Dash Command because they offer an iPad version which Rev does not.
 

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I've heard mixed reviews on the ELM device, but you can't go wrong at that price. There is also an android app that is supposed to be great to use with it.
 

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I have and ELM-USB. I did pay more than what that ebay auction is showing. Then again if the seller has positive feedback it should be safe.

I don't use it with any of the above hardware or software pieces. I'm a computer nerd so I use it with a laptop and a serial terminal/scripts. If you want python/linux code to pop up a desktop notification when its time to shift let me know :p
 

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It's 99% always on the drivers side of the car I don't think I've seen otherwise. CRZ its close to your right knee if you are sitting in the driver's seat with your feet on tbe pedals. No cover or anything its just there past the plastic.
He is from Europe, they do crazy things there. But in the united states it is required that all OBDII ports now be placed between the center counsel and the drivers door frame. Normally they center it under the steering wheel.... Some VW's stick it behind the ash tray in the center however, annoying. And some BMW's put it right on the side of the center counsel because it is than easy to relocate to the other side for the English version.
 

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The Android app is called Torque. I have it, works great. Highly recommended! You can find it in the Market in both free and paid versions.

I'm using it with the ELM adapter on my Mazda 3 right now. I don't have a CRZ... yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997R using Tapatalk
 

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help me please: (FRENCH)

owner: ?
vin: ?
fuel tank capacity: 40L
engine displacement:1497 cc
volumetric efficiency: ?
MAF PID: ?
MAF PID: ?
lambda (actual) PID: ?
lambda (commanded) PID: ?
tire size specification: 205/45/17
final drive ratios: ?
whell circumference: 1840mm
curb weight: 1147kg
Additional weight: 65kg
drag coefficients: ?
frontal area: ?
maximun engine speed: ?
minimun engine speed: ?
shift point: ?
fuel type: ?
tire rolling resistance coefficient: ?
speed correction: ?


thank you
 

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Owner and VIN aren't really needed for anything. It's just information to identify the vehicle (in the event that you have two of the same model).

I believe the app will use the default MAF and MAP PIDs if nothing is entered in those fields. (for reference, the SAE default MAF and MAP PID's are 66 and 87 respectively (thanks to Wikipedia)). I think this option is present in the event there is more than one MAF and MAP sensor, so you can monitor a specific sensor.

I don't know about the lambda PIDs.

Fuel type I would pick Gasoline. There's no hybrid option, so unless your CR-Z happens to take one of the other types of fuel listed, that's the best choice. What's odd here is that the app could actually query the computer for this info (PID 51).

A lot of the other info in those settings is only needed for the gear calculation process that the app can do. As far as I can tell, this feature of the app is really intended for an automatic transmission vehicle with programmed shift points and fixed gears/gear ratios (i.e. not a manual (where the shift point depends on when the driver shifts) or CVT (which has no fixed gear ratios). For the CR-Z, I would just leave these blank. It doesn't hurt anything by filling them in though. The settings related to this are:
- Final drive ratios (should be available on Honda's website under specifications)
- Wheel circumference
- Maximum engine speed (I would put the redline value)
- Minimum engine speed (I would guess that this is the lowest RPM the engine will idle at)
- Shift Point

The drag coefficient would be static across all CR-Zs, unless you've done exterior modifications that will change the aerodynamics of the car (lowering, new nose, spoiler on the back, etc.). This would probably be something measured in a wind tunnel.

The rolling resistance coefficient would depend on both your tires and the surface that you're driving on. For average everyday use, I wouldn't worry about this too much. But if you're performing specific testing/research on the vehicle's power and/or torque, then you probably know how to figure this number out.

Speed correction is a factor used to calculate your correct speed, in the event that your speedometer is not providing the correct speed (i.e. you've changed wheel and tire sizes, so the speed displayed is slightly lower or higher than you're really moving at).
 

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Torque is a good app for Android that will work with the ELM327 Bluetooth adapters available for cheap on eBay and other sites. The WiFi ones might also work with Android, but I know for certain that the Bluetooth ones work.

Also available for iPhone/iPad is a cable solution by a company called GoPoint. I much prefer this option as I'd rather not be letting others access my car's computer wirelessly. This cable also has the benefit of charging your iPhone (or powering your iPad; it won't charge it), so you can leave it on all the time and not drain its battery.
 
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